European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - May 4, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The solution to fluctuating hemlines pants by Bernadine Morris new York times w the the american fall and Winter collodion now open it is Clear that pants have made a clean sweep of the world s fashion  almost the same enthusiasm that they showed in adopting raid High Skirls just a year ago. Designers everywhere have opted Lor trousers As an All purpose style Loi Bolh Day and night. Just Mclorn the fall showings began the uncertainly Over hem lengths was so Strong that designers settled on trousers As the Gie Al Compromise. There was precedent Lor this in 1970. When women rebelled As Ine miniskirts of the 1960s turned into Trie awkward Midi 01 miscall length Iho pants suit Bonamo the fashion world s salvation. The two map styles then Woro the Dauble nil pants suit introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1963. And tailored styles in worsted and gabardine. Even Icse relatively conventional styles caused some commotion As a few Reslau rates domed on Rance to women in pants and some employers said they wore not appropriate to Wear to work. The Lluy of objections soon passed and hemlines resumed to their periodic Rise and fall. This pattern was interrupted last Yea when almost every designer spurred by Iho Brilliant Success of Christian la min in pans and his Short bout land Skirls hated hemlines Well above the knee. This revival of the mini dominated last fall s collections introduced a year ago and continued unabated in the next collections for this Spring and summer. By this time complaints were being registered by women who Felt thai of reasons of ago profession or the slate of choir legs they were unwilling to Wear above the once hemlines. Some retailers attributed lagging sales to the dominance of Short Skirls. Although it is rare to Lind a designer who will find fault with Short Skirls some did acknowledge that perhaps fashion had gone Loo far in focusing exclusively on very Briet clothes a few designers had even jumped the gun in his Spring couture collection Tor Chanel introduced in january in Paris Karl Lagerfeld presented a group of slender suits Wilh Call length hams that were acknowledged As sophisticated and suave. At the Samo Lime. Donna Karan showed some Long col Ion summer dresses. When it came to developing their collections for next fall designers wavered. Some like Geoffrey Beene continued choir love Alfair with very Short skills. Others like Oscar de la Renta offered a neat balance Between above and below lha knee styles. Karan tilled to Long and slender lengths. Most collect Loans a flied a Choice the majority of retailers said that Jual above who knee would be their most important length or fall and thai the Long slender styles would to their fashion leaders. But there was no problem about pants they were everybody s Choice. Retailers along with designers believe that in women Leel Uncertain about choosing either Long or Short hemlines they will Luin to pants i what s More tha Choice of trouser styles is almost As wide a Iho Choice in Skirls ranging irom Sliver thin to full  the Best All around collections in new York. Trousers have major Billing. Beam offers jump suits As an alternative to his Short shirts. Calvin Klein s pants Range irom knitted Cashmere tights to styles that fit smoothly Over the hips and Widen to the Ankles. Karan s trousers have us same sleek sophisticated look As the real of her ctr Lection. Of la Renta shows pants in Strong colors like Orange and yellow with Small jackets Lor Day and wide leg velvet or brocade pants for evening. Bill Blass likes evening pants paved in sequins As Well As lace styles embroidered with Jet beads and wide leg plaid tall Eta outlets with Matching tops. Louis Dell Ollo varies his repertory for Anns Klein with All pleated and cropped above the Ankles pants styles the most satisfying Are velvet with Gold or Jet embroidery. From tailored Gray flannel to sweeping glitter trimmed crepe or velvet there is no dearth of pants Tor women who arc not sure where they want Ihler hemlines. And designers have paid such attention to the design and lit of these new Iron scr that they Ere Likely to Appeal to Many women simply for their Good  seams Likely that fashion is about to enter a new pants Era. This does not Rule out one Horn length or another in is simply a Way of enlarging the fashion options designers feel that this time they Are on to a Sura thing. Considered sober and practical today pants Are the Antithesis of last year s Gaudy playful fashions T that went along Wilh very Short Skirls. Menswear in America loosens up  associated press m Turing baby Boomers Are changing the rules for menswear in the United tales As they look or clothes somewhere Between jeans and to Shirl and the pin striped suit. Most of the younger Guys who Aie working grow up on mtg and Rock n Roll said award winning designer Bill Robinson whose Label is Starling ils third year. This generation of americans a says is breaking Down barriers of How and whore you Wear  the experimentation is evident in clothes now being shown for Lall. Soon to be sent to stores across the untied slates. The look includes round softer shoulders on sport coals High waisted sweaters meant to be lucked in mock Lurl Renocks to tie worn under vests buttery antique leathers and suedes. Browns Grays and Blacks Are popular but some designers Are throwing in reds yellows and what one called vegetable  i think american men Are ready to Wear color said Ronaldus Sham ask. A relative newcomer to menswear whose minimal Islic designs in such shades As Mustard Teal and wine have won acclaim. Men Are becoming much More   the classic Polo line by Ralph Lauren who s been designing menswear Lor More than 20 years is trying out american Indian styles suede shills and antique ski and expedition clothing even lha business suit is loosening up said Tom Julian associate fashion director of Iho men s fashion association. Men Are More aware of fashion  Jack Herschlag. Executive director of the National association of men s spoils Wear buyers says suits Are appearing in a variety of silhouettes this Lall. Even Iho double breasted suit Well finally a Templ a comeback in the United slates Long alter it s return in Europe. Men arc moving away irom the investment dressing Cia and Inlo a stage of experimental Ion. Is Toschlag says. He and Olheis in the Lipold attribute the development partly to the influence of movies and to shows like  and la. Law that feature smartly dressed Young professionals. Business is helped when men see role models like Bill Cosby looking groovy on to says Robinson who describes his clothes As souped up versions of american classics. It s not silly it s not meant to make a statement insisted Sham ask s sales director Marian Bratcher. It s More for people who Are tired of playing games. It s More this is me " that s not to say the new looks Are Tor everyone. Those who Are clicking with jeans should know thai this tall Marks the beginning of the Post acid a Ash Cal Era Herschlag said. The pendulum is swinging Back to very very dark  said Julian. And  business Suil Isnoel dead yet. There la always be a Brooks Brothers element in american society Robinson said. Page 14 the stars and stripes wednesday