European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - May 4, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                60,  new York times the foods Iem Joy waking with most Aret Hoso that lend themselves la the Greaves variety of preparation. So Dole on he Man kinds and shapes of pasta was certainly nol raised on a die of pasta once or twice a Clay As Many italian Chrls were. When i  worked m restaurants in France the use of pastas was generally limited 1o one of two Side dishes one of i Host was veal cutlets thanese. In which the breaded  was invariably saved Wilh a simple Spaghetti dish in a Tomato sauce. Today 1 would say that pasta in one lorm or another appears on Rny Amity table at least once a week on average Lor 1 find show Joy in exercising Rny imagination in new ways to prepare it. One dish particularly favored Al my table inc Nelly is Cut Iii Lowed Wilh a Flavo Somo blend of Iresh asparagus and Lom aloes. A Dollop of coarsely chopped fresh Basil and some shredded prosciutto and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. The sauce contains a bit of heavy Cream and that along with the liquid from the tomatoes. Gives on appealing Rosy look to the dish. It is by no Means Dill cull to prepare once the ingredients Are Roady and Cut the entire sauce May be put together while Ine Zili boils. As i have alien noted Broccoli seems to have a particular at mity to pasta of almost any Sari. Ii makes an excellent Side dish when Flavoured with a touch of Anchovy paste. Hot Pepper Hakes and garlic Al Al with prosciutto and Tomato sauce u Pound Cut Zutl Milit Allala s Plum Tome oar about 1 Pound cores removed 24 asparagus a of Aboul 11b Sunde a Pound very thin slices of pro chitto Salt to lasts la desired it cup Olive All 1 Tablespoon finely minced garlic Presmy ground Pepper to taste 1 a cups heavy Cream it cup coarsely chopped fresh Basil v4 cup freshly graded Parmesan cheese. Bring 4 quarts of wafer to a boil Lor cooking the Zili and vegetables. Cut the tomatoes in a Inch cubes. There should be about 3 cups scrape the ends of the asparagus Spears and Cut of and discard about 2 inches of the Lough Bottoms. Cut Oil and Reserve Irie asparagus tips each about 2 menus Long Cut the Center portion of the asparagus on the Bias info 1 Inch pieces. There should be about 4 cups of asparagus including the lips Slack the prosciutto slices and Cut them in a Inch wide strips there should be Aboul t i cups. Drop the asparagus pieces into the boiling water and Cook 3 minutes. Scoop out the asparagus and set aside. Allow the water to continue to boil. To the boiling water add Salt and he Liti. When the water returns to a boil Cook the Ziti to the desired degree of a oneness about t z minutes or longer. Scoop out and Reserve on third cup of the cooking liquid. Set aside. Meanwhile heal the Oil in a Large slate and add the garlic. Cook briefly stirring and add the prose ullo. Stirring. Add the tomatoes Salt and Pepper and Cook stirring occasionally about 3 minutes. Add the Cream and bring to a boil. Drain the Ziti add it to the prosciutto mixture and sir. Add the asparagus pieces and the Basil. Add the reserved one third cup of cooking liquid stir to blend and Sprinkle Wilh cheese. Toss and serve. Yield 4 or More Servings Broccoli with anchovies and Taruc 1 Bunch of Broccoli about 1 i pounds Salt to taste if dlr a 3 Tablespoons Olive Oil 1 Leb spoon finely minced garlic i Teaspoon dried hoi red Peppar flakes 1 Teaspoon Anchovy pail. Cut off the Broccoli tops into individual florets. Cut the stems crosswise into 2-Inch lengths. Trim Oil the outside of the stems and Cuche trimmed pieces diagonally into i Inch slices there should be about 6 cups in Al bring enough water id a boil to cover the Broccoli when in is added add sail and the Broccoli pieces and Cook 3 minutes Drain. Heal the Oil in a Skillet and add the Broccoli pieces. Cook stirring Over relatively High heal and add the Garlyn Pepper Hakes and Anchovy paste. Cook tossing and stirring the ingredients together Aboul t minute. Serve. Yield 4 Servings the curious chopper by son a Helme How do they Pluck the Leattie off Chile kit i such Mas quantities also Why do supermarket chickens Faste so different lion Chicken i buy from a Small farm b. Mcgregor Saugerties . Your questions Are answered by David Kingsmill a food writer and a restaurant critic with the Totolo Star in Canada As to plucking leathers Many Dillon on types of machines Are used but in effect the leathers Are loosened by a hot scald and then dragged through a Cylinder o tub with Strong rubber fingers that strip the feathers out. In some machines i be seen the lingers Whir in a Circle in others the lingers move up and Down against each other in a Fleck pinching the leathers out. La s at very crude really and a Chicken can go through one of these in As Little Lime As 15 seconds As Loi the Lasle. The most important consideration is no where inc Bird came from or Haw it was raised but How in was processed. Because supermarkets require huge amounts for reasonable prices modern processing plants use whats known As n hot scald. Erma Bombeck water chill process Birds Are killed bled and Ihen Pul through a hot water Bathlo loosen the feathers Ectore they go into the rubber Finger plus Kors. This hoi scald loosens the leathers All right but in also rids the Birds of the epidermis and thus much of the flavor at Iho end of the processing stage the gutted and cleaned Birds Are plunged into ice Waler to chill them quickly tar safely reasons and there they soak until shipment absorbing the water. You can spot a supermarket Chicken by the pinkish water in the Bollom of the plastic Container and the skin is Slippery and smooth the belter mechanized Way uses warm water scald Al the beginning which does t remove the epidermis but often leaves pin leathers. At the other end of the line the Birds Are chilled in air in refrigerators at 33 or 34 degrees and so do not absorb water and Are nol leached of flavor Kosher Chicken plants use a cold water leather loosening process which does t Al Lect the epidermis the Birds Are salted for three hours washed quickly with cold water and then air chilled. Free Range chickens Slart out with obvious advantages but if they go through the hoi scald Waler chilled process they won t to any belter than the supermarket chickens. To add to the problem supermarkets Are olten forced to do a mile processing themselves Chicken does t last Long on the supermarket shelf before it develops a distinct odor. Supermarkets Are Ollen forced to Wash the Birds again further diluting inc taste. A Cook can Lell a better Chicken easily. An air chilled Chicken has a dry. Greasy skin. A water chilled Chicken is Slick usually while and sits in a Pink Pool of Waler in ils tray. The table of a simple roast Chicken is being sacrificed to the god of economics Alt across North America. The Pill is that Gener Allons Are growing up with cardboard chickens thinking that Hal is the Way they Are supposed to  i have while bedroom furniture and hit tinning yellow. What can i do to get it White to ten Helen Potter Johnstown a. While furniture beams to be increasing in popularity but the problem according to a number of complaint thai have come to me is that after a period of Lime ii begins to yellow and no amount of cleaning can restore its whiteness. A paint dealer informed me that it s the chemical nature of Oil based enamels to yellow in the aging process h s just the nature of the product. Scrubbing ii Wilh abrasives will Cut Down tha Sheen of the furniture and still might my help. My husband was looking for our daughter s phone number in my Rolodex the other night when he said. What does this mean see volume Iii column 17" i grabbed a Loose Leaf notebook of the Shell and hipped through the pages. Here in is. The last number is the most current and if you re going to add a new one please use  he looked with interest at the volumes of our kids phone numbers and addresses. How does their mail Ever keep up Wilh them he asked grow up i said. Haven t you seen that Largo Box of mail in the hallway we have everything but a drive in window there was a Lime when the television mashed a s 11 o clock do you know where your children Aie i did t have a clue. They should ask me Loday. I know More about them than any Parent has a right to know. Through my personal answering service i know where the parties Are being held weekends Are being planned sol Ball games Are being played and wedding receptions Are being staged by staring their mail i know who has fool a Driver s License whose payments overdue on the charge cards where their friends Winlon vacations when their cars need a tune up and when their Teeth need cleaning. Kids have a strange reaction toward mail. When mine were Small. I had a son who came in every night pawed through the mail on the table in the hallway and inquired anything Lor me you re 9 years eld i said. Who were you expecting a personal Letler trom your broker he always seemed disappointed that to had nothing to rip open and drop in the waste can. Now that he is grown and receives mail he never opens it and he never throws it away. He just picks up a letter holds it to his forehead like Johnny Carson and divines the answer "60 Days. Unpaid balance.  your tax estimate i yell excitedly. He drops it on the stack and goes on to Check the refrigerator. In a Way lha mail and the phone messages Are the ties that bind us together. As i said to my husband it s a Good thing we re Here and have some permanence. Ii we weren to no one would know where to find them. They never know about Ihei class reunions or the lire sales or the balance on their Bank  de Mcmahon would know said Rny husband thai s Tiue. Coth what Tow Smuhl Page 16 the stars and stripes wednesday May 4,1988