European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - May 22, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A gown to flatter the figure by Barbara Mayer associated press o matter what Type of wedding is planned it can safely be assumed that the goal of every Bride is to look her Best on this important Day. Since figure types vary it stands to reason that the Best style of wedding gown to choose is not necessarily the most fashionable but rather the one thai Best complements the Bride s figure Cindy Rose fashion director for Vogue butterick Rattan says there Are three main figure types for one. Visualize a Triangle the Apex at the lop in this figure the hips measure More than 10 inches larger than the bust. Choose a dress which builds up the shoulders and sleeves and enhances the narrow Waist but has a full skirt to minimize the Large hips. The Bottom heavy figure is complemented by a Ball gown skill and a Basque Waist and Pouf sleeves to balance the skirt. A lop heavy figure roughly described by an inverted Nangle is flattered by a straight lined Sheath without a clearly defined Waist. Choose a columnar dress providing fullness through the train avoid dresses with a Lichu Collar. Instead opt for a simple round neck or a mandarin Collar dress suggests Rose for added drama on this Day when All eyes Are on the Bride rely on Back interest to set the dress apart you might Lor example buy a dress with a Low a neck Back. Other possibilities a Loose top with Dolman sleeves and illusion lace Over a taffeta under fabric. Yet another Ligure Type is a slender rectangle. This figure Type is often characterized by a Boyish figure with a Flat bust narrow hips and no very discernible Waist. Choose a drop waisted dress whose deep v creates a Waistline where none really exists. Another attractive option is a dress with a peplum or flounce effect for a More slender appearance to an Overall rounded figure try an a line gown and no defined Waist with a Matching coat. The flowing lines of this Type of outfit elongate a heavy figure by not focusing on any single area if you decide to lose weight before the wedding be 7 sure to set realistic goals. Strive Lor an attainable reduction with healthy eating and an exercise plan. Don t order a size smaller gown says Bride s Magazine. Bui schedule your last fitting As close to the wedding As possible so that the dress will lit perfectly. Regardless of body Type ask the litter to suggest the proper foundation garments when you try on the gown. For example a raised Waist slip or control top pantyhose for body hugging styles or a lightly padded Bra. Schedule your last titling a clot to the wedding a possible so that the tints will fit perfectly. Walking Down the aisle in style by Barbara Mayer associated press a though the tradition of Ornat embellishment continues to reign in evermore elaborate wedding dresses in i reunited states this year s bridal fashion reveal a new seductiveness in dresses with Oil Trie shoulder necklines Short sleeves and see through cutouts in bodices. According to Cindy Rose fashion director for Vogue butterick patterns in new York puckering ruching and ruffles Are also turning up on dresses whose sweetheart necklines shawl collars and even strapless lops Are a departure from traditional styles. Many dresses in All Price ranges Are heavily embellished and very sparkling says Holly Mcmunn of bridal originals in new York. The application of glitter in the form of Rhin clones or embroidered and beaded lace is a feature of this year s dresses she says. Embellishments come in the form of Rosette appliques pass Emeterie and so tache braiding and artificial Flowers on the bodice skirt or headdress or on All three. Dresses can hardly be too elaborate. Long full trains and the use of two or More fabrics Are typical Many dresses have lace or tulle netting Over a base fabric of Tallula. Rose finds that styles vary depending on the area of the United states and the weather. In some regions like new York and new England tailored dresses Are the Rule. In Rural and suburban areas Puffer sleeves and Fuller skirts Are Likely to be chosen by brides. Regardless of style traditional White and to a lesser extent Ivory remain the Best Selling colors for bridal dresses. In headpieces the trend is toward sorter less constructed looks. These Floral very feminine hair pieces Are worn in a variety of ways to the Side or Backol the head with the hair flowing loosely around the Headpiece. What will those brides with an adventurous fashion sense be wearing according to Mcmunn Short wedding dresses including the Bubble and dresses with Piep rums and Bolero jackets Are among the most advanced fashion looks this year. Mothers of the Bride and Groom Are selecting outfits with less glitter and Shine and More lace and sheer fabrics. For Spring and summer look for More prints in soil Watercolours. Metallic and very shiny looks that once were so popular Are definitely on the Wane in Rose s opinion. However an iridescent Peart Zed look is growing in popularity across the country. A bit of glitter May be present in the form of a beaded Motif on bodice or at the hip according to Mcmunn. Nowadays weddings Are presenting a More coordinated look she says. The Bride is Likely to choose a color theme which is then carried Over in bridesmaid s gowns groomsmen s attire and even in the wedding decorations. For example bows and ruffles on the bridesmaids dresses May complement similar decorations on the bridal gown. If bridesmaids Are wearing peach dress the groomsmen May be attired in Ivory if Lavender then Silver Gray suits could be a Good Choice or the men according to Ken Hall of alter six inc., a maker of men s formal Wear. Often cummerbunds and ties carry the color Story into the men s clothing he says. Some new ideas on the horizon the All while wedding in which the entire bridal party is dressed in White perhaps with a touch of color. A variation is the Black and White color scheme. Among popular colors for attendants dresses Are the jewel Ike Brights. Such As Royal Blue and red. And pastels such As Orchid. Tea length styles Are gaining popularity though floor length dresses Are most often selected. According to Hall almost anything goes at a contemporary wedding when it comes to attire for the Groom and his attendants. The traditional weddings still follow the prescribed rules of attire. Fed Wing Collar shirts a throwback to so years ago outsell la Down collars and ruffled shirts. Vests Are starting to come Back. Trousers Are pleated and fit looser. A trend for the future is a sightly oversized look for men with thicker shoulder padding looser fitting jackets and pants that Are wider at the knee but tight at the ankle. Traditional wedding attire is Stia being sold. The Gray cutaway with an Ascot is the Rule Tor a formal daytime wedding while a stroller or regular length jacket with a Lour in hand lie is proper at an informal one. In both cases Gray striped trousers Are the Rule. The evening formal wedding rates White tie and tails or a Tuxedo. Hall says Here Are Only two rules he subscribes to that the Groom dress differently from the other men in the procession and that tails be worn Only after 6pm. Page 16 the stars and stripes sunday. May 22,1988