European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 18, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Magazine hats Are making a steady reappearance this year in All sizes and styles. Banner year for bonnets by Woody Hochswender new York times sports of the comeback of the hat in the United states May be greatly exaggerated. But Fine millinery the Art of making women s hats is enjoying a Renaissance in new York As Well As abroad. In an age of femininity and fear of the Sun a Small group of Young milliners is using old fashioned technology to meet a growing demand. Not yet a fad or a wave hats Are making a steady reappearance especially at formal occasions and at the Beach. Eric javits a soft spoken 32-year-old who takes classic millinery shapes and gives them updated twists turns out More than 30,000 hats a year in his factory on West 38th Street in Manhattan. This past year has been a big jump Over previous years he said. Javits studied Art at the Rhode Island school of design and his hats reflect his sculptural interests. The luxurious headpieces make a statement one that has generally vanished from the language of clothes. Among his exotic and romantic shapes Are sequin Dot or Turkey Feather platters a Black velvet stovepipe with plaid bows and a velvet and taffeta  Anne Moore s elegant toppers have appeared in All the major fashion magazines. Madonna wears them. So does the Duchess of York. Moore recently made hats for the film version of slaves of new York a merchant Ivory production of the Tama Janowitz novel. In the movie Bernadette Peters plays a hat maker who is eventually famous. Moore 28, a graduate of miss Porter s school and a former Secretary in Vogue s Paris office talks at a fast clip and could easily be a character in a Janowitz Story herself. Her atelier is jammed with Bird hats Bear hats miniature hats mad hatters and vegetable platters. People talk to you when you have a hat on she said. It s a conversation  especially if it s one of her Strawberry and banana boaters or her Broad Black Straw trimmed with a Pearl Branch and a Swan swathed in White organza. She makes custom hats that she said she Sells to society women women who dress Well and go to  her hats Are at stores including Bergdorf Goodman and Charivari and she expects to sell about 2,000 this year at from $150 to $600. Her dream is to open her own store. Down a couple of Steps from Street level at 156 East 64th Street in a Little shop with an arched wrought Iron window Suzanne Dache follows in the tradition of her Mother Lilly Dache the great Milliner from the heyday of the hat who made headgear for Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo. Business at the Suzanne Dache shop has been Good. She sold about 2,000 hats last year from a Little Straw Sailor hat at $55 to wide off the face Felt cloches from $225. I can remember six years ago begging the stores to sell my hats said Dache who opened Here a year and a half ago. There s been a big  her Mother has real hat perspective. Speaking from her Home on the outskirts of Paris Lilly Dache now in her 90 a said hats Are Back because feminine fashion is Back. Skirt lengths no longer matter so what s important is from the Waist  As recently As 30 years ago a hatless Man or woman amid the hurrying human tides of new York would have been considered Odd. Businesswomen in the 30s, 40s and 50s were always photographed wearing hats said Caroline rennolds Milbank former head of the costume department at rotheby s and the author of couture. At one time the blocks from 34th Street to 40th Street Between fifth Avenue and the Avenue of the americas were full of hat makers. Then Jacqueline Kennedy s hats those Little pillboxes got smaller and smaller. Beehive hairdos got bigger and bigger. Hat makers began to disappear. Retail hat sales went from about $300 million in 1986 to $350 million in 1987, said Casey Bush director of the millinery Institute of America. A key figure in the millinery revival is Ann Albrizio a hat designer for 35 years and an adjunct professor at the fashion Institute of technology. She has introduced Many of today s Young milliners including Kokin to the Craft. Albrizio has about 120 students in her courses 12 years ago she taught a handful. One of her most accomplished former students is Victoria Dinardo. In a tiny shop in Soho amid Beautiful Black striped hat boxes Dinardo strives for a level of craftsmanship and Wear ability that is rare. The Way things Are put together is extremely important to me she said. An old fashioned kind of Milliner who likes working with her hands Dinardo 31, designs and hand blocks her hats in a loft workroom separate from her store. Custom orders especially bridal hats Are the heart of her business. Recently she produced a collection of 200 hats for the designer Donna Karan which Are sold at Bergdorf s and Saks. Otherwise she Sells exclusively through her retail store which carries Straw open visor and Little cocktail hats from $75 to $475. Patricia Underwood who Calls herself an old timer after 10 years in business is less sanguine than other milliners about the prospects of the hat. If anybody says hats Are Back i say no she said. Life is not that formal  nevertheless she reported having a Banner Bonnet  Eric javits turns out More than 30,000 hats a year in a factory in Manhattan. Not monday july 18, 1988 the stars and stripes Page 13