European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 2, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse Not 6 Loose fitting or tight stylish trousers Are All the rage. The latest quiet for fall Winter by Catherine Crocker associated press fashion has Many Virtues but consistency is not on of them. That was apparent this Spring when designer unveiled their fall and Winter collections in new Short skirt has fallen from Grace and it triumphant successor is the trouser. Not dowdy Boring everyday pants but creations that stir the hearts of even skirt lovers. Most exciting Are the wide flowing evening trousers usually Black worn with elegantly beaded and brocaded jackets. Oscar de la Renta triumphed when he matched a Long sleeved to shirt striped with horizontal rows of sheer Chiffon and velvet with flowing Black Cashmere pants. And Donna Karan won enthusiastic applause for a Little beaded Bronze jacket that simply sparkled Over wide Black trousers. Sportswear for evenings is How Sidney Bachman vice president and fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman describes this latest Dressy look. I love the idea she said. But trousers Are Only part of the picture. Fashion in the United states has entered a new quiet Era wrote a commentator for women s Wear daily the prestigious Trade Magazine for the fashion Industry which has dubbed the fall and Winter look quiet everything was extreme and pouty and big and showy and dramatic for Spring and summer said Elyse Kroll president of . Productions. Her company puts on exclusive Trade shows that give up and coming designers a Chance to show their wares to retailers. Now everything is More real you know said Kroll. And they almost had to do that. They had to come Back from that costume kind of in terms of hemlines that Means most dresses and skirts barely Graze the knee although plenty of Long slender silhouettes dip to mid calf. But Don t look to skirt lengths or trousers widths for that matter in planning your fall wardrobe. The key to the new look is Rich fabrics and Strong shapes that Don t need fussy extras. Ralph Lauren the master of understated elegant american clothes is right at Home designing quiet Chic apparel. His lean and straight Gray Cashmere pants were worn with a Matching Turtleneck and a thigh length Camel hair swing coat. Once again he proves the theory that less is More More refined More classic More flattering. But simplicity also Means modern and fun _ and nobody does that better than Calvin Klein. I m always trying to achieve modern clothes. For american women Klein said. They want attractive Good looking clothes that work for Klein used double faced Wool cloth that takes to Well off ined shapes. And the silhouettes were decidedly architectural Long thin columns for evening gowns and Short chemises Distant cousins to rectangles for daytime Wear. The thoroughly modern Klein stamp came in High voltage colors Chrome yellow fuchsia shocking purple and acid Green matched with Basic Black. De la Renta and Carolina Herrera also played with Bright and Black color combos. And Lauren and Karan though they did t go with Neon shades were successful using Brilliant reds bronzes and golds. All in All this is a season of Choice. Women can Wear above the knee rounded skirts with Short fitted jackets Long slim knit skirts under easy looking tunics slim pants or wide legged trousers with creamy blouses or Black turtlenecks Coats that Are full and swing with the Breeze or belted and flared. I think fall is going to be one of the most versatile times we be had said Kroll. The new pants look by Daniela Petroff associated press italian designers have revived pants for the fall Winter season making the Staple item of the modern woman wardrobe stylish the past several seasons pants had been edged off the runway to make room for the bold return of the miniskirt which reached its Peak this summer with minuscule skirts Back on the Market in Europe and the United states. But As latecomers scramble for the few minis left at summer sales shopkeepers already Are lining the shelves with myriad pants proposed by the top italian ready to Wear designers during their preview fall Winter showings in Milan in March. On the whole the new pants look is easy fitting cuff less and Falls loosely from a softly gathered or pleated Waistline. However for those who seek another Challenge after the daring mini the Winter season offers a tight legged trouser whose sex Appeal is increased by a High Wasp Waistline. For the Best in casual elegance the place to shop is Armani where you can find a variety of pants in smooth wools with delicately undressed Waist pleats and a Side Zipper for extra femininity. If a soft easy fit is what you Are after the right address is Trizia whose pants achieve a relaxed Comfort by a softly gathered Waistline and an ample leg. Gianfranco Ferre caters to those who like their pants slim and Unfussy. His Winter version in smooth Wool or crushed velvet is belted at the Waist and worn with a dramatic White shirt with wide stand up Collar. Gianni Versace offers a clinging version in Wool or silk Jersey which starts off with a High tiny Wasp Waist and Slinks its Way Down to a narrow ankle. High heeled ankle boots Complete the sensual look. In the leather department the talented Tanner Mario Valentino stocks his Racks with baggy wide legged pants stemming from a High tight fitting Waistline. For those who can t Bear giving up those hard earned miniskirt legs Milan Winter fashion offers bermudas and knickers usually coupled with thigh High wading boots. To go with the High waisted pants look the milanese designers offer tight sleeved slim fitting jackets cropped just above the Waist. Again the winning version can be found at Armani. The new Armani jacket in soft plaids by Day and velvet at night achieves its minimal look by narrow armholes and Long tight sleeves. There s no room for shoulder padding in this tiny jacket and thus after almost two years of dominating the fashion scene the boxy football player look disappears. For a slightly wider Cut jacket still without padding but double breasted and hip length the place to look is Trizia. Trizia presented the most elegant suit of the season combining this jacket with her soft trousers or a slim skirt hemmed just at the knee in classic Gray flannel. Still another jacket which can be found at Byblos Ferre and Versace draws its inspiration from the traditional Riding jacket with its narrow Waist and flared hips. Although pants prevail there Are still plenty of skirts in the Winter Moda they Range from Long and flared to a rare poured mini for evening but on the whole they Are Slimy tailored and Cut at what Trizia Calls the sensible length at the knee. There is something for everyone where Coats Are concerned from the traditional Trench Ferrag Amoto the Redin Gote Byblos the frock coat Gigli the Teddy Bear Armani and the top coat Mario Valentino. Fake furs Are Back for this year s chillier season with even the famed fend furriers bowing to the cheaper More practical synthetic wrap. This revival appease the ecologists while allowing women to Delight in such forbidden cats As leopards and tigers. In the footwear department the big news is the return o boots both Flat and High heeled but More often than not clinging to the calf and sometimes the thigh like a Glove. Colors Mirror the fall shades of Green Brown beige and Gray with dashes of Bright Maple red. For yet another season Black is the favorite Choice for evening. On the whole the italian ready to Wear designers have returned to doing what put them on the International fashion map a decade ago and what they still do better than anyone else create a casual sporty look refined by exquisite workmanship and Beautiful fabrics. Don t look to skirt length planning y s to new lok Rich fabrics and Strong shapes. Young men Are breaking Down barriers in dress this season. They re moving into a stage of experimentation. Up menswear loosens up by Paul Geitner associated press maturing baby Boomers Are changing the rules for american menswear As the look for clothes somewhere Between jeans and t shirt and the Pinstripe suit. Most of the younger Guys who Are working grew up on mtg and Rock n Roll said award winning designer Bill Robinson whose Label is starting its third year. This generation he says is breaking Down barriers of How and where you Wear experimentation is evident in clothes shown for fall. The look includes round softer shoulders on spor Coats High waisted sweaters meant to be tucked in mock turtlenecks to be worn under vests buttery antique leathers and suedes. Browns Grays and Blacks Are popular but some designers Are throwing in reds yellows and what one called vegetable i think american men Are ready to Wear color said Ronaldus Sham ask a relative newcomer to menswear whose minimal Stic designs in such shades As Mustard Teal and wine have won acclaim. Men Are becoming much a More comfortable with the classic Polo line by Ralph Lauren who s been designing menswear for More than 20 years trying out american Indian styles suede shirts and antique ski and expedition even the business suit is loosening up in the United states said Tom Julian associate fashion director of the men s fashion association. Men Are More aware of fashion Jack Herschlag executive director of the National association of men s sportswear buyers says suits Are appearing in a variety of silhouettes this fall and even the double breasted suit will attempt a comeback. Men Are moving away from the investment dressing Era and into a stage of experimentation Herschlag said. He and others in the Field attribute the development partly to the influence of movies and to shows like thirty something and . Law that feature smartly dressed Young professionals. That s not to say the new looks Are for everyone. The conservative business suit is not dead yet. There la always be a Brooks Brothers element in the society Robinson said. Suit Able styles associated press men s suits in the United states this fall will be a combination of contemporary and classic says Jim Stankovic president of j. Schoeneman manufacturers of Halston Burberry and de Rigueur suits. According to our Market research he says the american consumer will see a lot of classic styling but with less Structure. There is also a great Choice of fabrics and colors to choose for this season says Stankovic double breasted six Button suits Are popular Only the Bottom Button is Buttone pleated pants Are preferred and the look is More relaxed than in previous years with the shoulder wider sloped and softer. Are you suit Able the head of a new York based retailing consulting firm thinks All men Are if they first stand in front of a full length Mirror and try on what they have chosen to make sure the fit is right. Even without alterations the size suit you pick should be appropriate says Marvin a. Blumenfeld president of april Marcus inc. Keep in mind that no suit can be altered drastically without losing its Basic heavily built men should skip tapered european style suits and seek More conservative styles with natural shoulder lines in Subtle patterns he says. Slim physiques look better in a fitted suit try on shirts too he says although sleeve lengths Are a matter of personal Choice they should t show More than half an Inch at the Page 14 the stars and stripes tuesday August 2,1988 the stars and stripes Page 15
