European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 5, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                 Toller styles that Tutty Over the body sixties the evening anaemia leather la popular especially in Tol colors. Hen a Turquoise and rust suede jacket tops a Marine suede mint. Organza Blouse we Satin skirt and the Macks to Chemise is right Magazine Altitude said George Malkemus  president of Manolo Blahnik shoes. He noted thai he London based Blahnik like other Supe sophisticated designers of stiff highly structured Citi fied shoos is casing up. There s not inc overt hard sexuality there  Malkemus said instead of dross shoos with Spike heels he explained he new look Tor tall is the Louis Heel b modified hourglass shape Malkmus described As romantic. Oiler signs of subtler styling ate the current emphasis on suede or soil Napa leather not Tho hard aggressive erotic look of Crocodile thai every woman wanted a  a movie Bull. Malkemus referred to Hollywood s new Breed of leading men Kevin Costner and Dennis Quaid in particular As personifying the same shift in approach they re nol studs they re More Subtle setter Gary Cooper  said Malkmus who can quote from memory what he believes is Costner s Best line in his Lac so movie. Bull Durham i like Long slow Sweet Sod wet kisses that last three Days sex without sex thai s whal los Angeles clinical psychologist Slilla Resnick called in. We retelling comfortable with a new sort of sexuality that s not aggressive. People want a subtler Semra Lily they feel less compelled to act  More than anything else. Green attributes the change in ideas about fashion fragrance and even whal constitutes a romantic evening not to epidemics or in Latch dollars but to what she matted women s growing sense of Security. She added they Aren t afraid of being feminine  fashions shift to subtler sexuality by Mary Rourke los angelas times critics Are calling it non aggressive fashion. Designers use words such As gentle and sedate and one clinical psychologist has gone so Lar As to Label it dressing Lor Safe  they re a talking about a change in approach to fashion away from skintight mint and cropped domes toward softer draped styles that fully cover a body and leave plenty to the imagination.  say the shill is in keeping with a general return to More conservative attitudes a result of such ongoing National disasters As the aids epidemic and the Stock Markel crash. Two unlikely superstars help illustrate the change. One is Madonna the pop Singer turned actress and the other is French designer Jean Paul Gullier. Several years ago their styles intersected when Madonna wore corsets petticoats and Garter belts on stage Asil they were blouses and skirts while Gullier created dresses that looked like skintight girdles and Long line bras. Now they re in sync again. She s covered up like Katharine Hepburn in a 1940s movie dressed in Gaberdine suits with High Button jackets Long sleeves and skirts that hide her Knees. He s wrapping his models in Lull flowing trousers and Ultra feminine jackets with soft silk scarfs set into the neckline a look that has been widely imitated by . Designers. Even Azzedine Alaia the bad boy of Paris fashion is toning Down his super sexy style. Four years ago he sculpted body revealing clothes with explicit stitching thai outlined the wearer s behind. Now he s showing solely pleated Skirls that flow to mid calf length. The dangerous look is dead concluded Leon Man los Angeles resident philosopher fashion designer. Anything Early looks wrong clothes help communicate who you Are and right now people want to say they Are gentlemen and gentlewoman nol sexually  four years ago new York designer Donna Karan s first Solo collection featured bodysuits Over Bare bodies. This tall the Lead item is a scoop neck crocheted sweater jacket la s a soil Edge replacement Lor a Blazer Karan s Pashien director Pally Cohen said. We went from masculine hard making in in a mans world clothes to feminine nol overtly feminine but softer Cohen said. Paloma Picasso better known for her jewelry and fragrance is getting into tha gentle Folk fashion revival now with her first luxury line of leather goods. She is showing round shaped handbags. Sculptural but not aggressive shapes she said shapes you want to  for other suggestions of softer styling Picasso uses so Ilchert and applique work Sho has studied in the wrought Iron decorations on old buildings in Europe. To her they evoke a romantic past. Not Only accessories but fragrances and footwear Are contributing to the subtler style. Annette Green of the new York based fragrance foundation pointed out that some of the most successful scents introduced this year Are Light Floral that evoke romantic images Estea Lauder s knowing Elizabeth Taylor s passion and Calvin Klein s eternity among them. They re a dramatic change from whal Green Calls the hard Rock extremely pungent scents introduced in the past several years. Courtship is More important than sex Green said that s the message of the new fragrances As Wen As the new fashions. She repeated what the surveys Tell her. Women want marriage and family. They Don l want to be superwoman anymore that had a very negative end  even footwear reflects the same Satin rimmed jacket tops a Plauf to titty monday september 5, 198s the stars and stripes Page 13