European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - December 16, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Cutesy is act Asseln today s wedding dress brides in older and More sophisticated. Not a hold flourishes but no ruffles for a second wedding by Anne Marie sch1ro new York times any a Bride to be has a fantasy of looking like a Princess on her wedding Day with a lavish White Diess and Yards of veiling. Bui Hal Lanias can be out of Kilter for a Brido who is past the proverbial firs i Blush of you in or who has Boen to the Allar before. A mature Bride wants to look sophisticated not sophomoric. Bui finding inc dress of one s dreams on be a problem the second or third Lime around. The older Brido. Can rarely Lind what she wants in a bridal Salon she May nol even Goto one so she Ollen undertakes an exhausting search for something appropriate. For Betty Kelly Sargent something appropriate for her second wedding was a White Salin suit by Nama Kamali. For Freddy  was a two piece dress of Cream coloured silk by Sylvia Heisel. Manka Somerstein bought a Gold tace re the shoulder dress in Spain Joan Gelman of new York City who wore tradition at Peau de soil Mill a la Emanula at her firs wedding 30 years ago chose a dark Green Stavropoulos dress for her. Second wedding was married in january she said and knew i wanted Green velvet but i could t Tindal anywhere. Then i went into Martha on Park Avenue. She told her staff to cafe the Palm Beach store and have the stay Ropotos sent up. Shell want that,1 she said. It win be perfect and  unlike Gelman most second time brides prefer Pale colors or Oil White according to interviews with brides and with store employees around the nation. Or Lucitta of Boston a leading manufacturer of wedding dresses has a collection called contemporary romantic that is geared to the second Lime around. " for second marriages women look for something elegant and appropriate said Mary Cavan Nuti the personal shopper at Bergdorf Goodman in new York. Black is still inappropriate. They go into pastels Pink yellow Pale Blue Champagne or ecu. Not usually White while v v she recommends a suit or a site dress gel some requests Foi Ica in Glt  she said bul mostly  knee-length.". At i Magnin. In san Francisco second Lime brides in fairly formal weddings lend to Lavor romantic dresses of lace or Chiffon with  Long skirts. For an Page 16 the stars and stripes informal wedding a Knic length silk suit is usual. A second time Bride can be in her Date 20s," said Linda Lee head of the Macy s by appointment shopping service. She May Wear a wedding dress if it s her husband s first marriage but nol if both have been married before.  but most second Lime brides she added wan suits or in Bridey dresses. They say to not a kid anymore and ask Lor something a Little special bul not divergent from their general look. Most customers in our Herald Square store want to look sophisticated. In our Dallas and Florida stores they re More traditionally bridal a Short lace dress rather Nan a suit or a simple  -.-. .-,.-. Women with a practical Bent often choose suits because they can be worn again with a different Blouse. Or different buttons she said. But Lor most that is not a consideration. It s a special  Lee said. And there May be a need to make a second wedding even More special because there Aro usually no bridesmaids and no huge  a Bride to be with something special in mind can have it made to order. Monica Hickey who ran the bridal department at Henri Bendel until it was closed is now director of custom designs for the bridal Salon at Saks fifth Avenue. To gel a Tot of second  she said. They usually choose Short dresses for daytime l recommend a simple Chemise with a touch of lace. Women Over 30 also like suits for a formal evening wedding she recently found a Bob Mackie outfit she considers appropriately sophisticated a Long strapless lace dress with a High necked jacket. There is a Matching Small Pillbox hat with a Short veil but she recommends that a second time Bride nol Wear the veil. Most Bridat experts say a repeal Bride should Wear something on her head whether a hat a Bow or Lowers but not a veil. Suky Giosan who runs a bridal Bogl que in Ardmore pa., outside Philadelphia recommends silk Lowers with a bit of Jeweline although she considers a hat with veiling All right because the style is . Rps an said her average first time Bride is 30, and wants a wedding gown bul something sophisticated usually silk with a Smalt amount of beading and no lace ii she wears lace ii would probably be a Lea length Raiher than a Long dress. Friday december 16,1988 bridesmaids in Black Beni enemy new York times he Bohde is always Beautiful and he bridesmaids Are Well Pul it this Way they Aren t what they used to be. At Toast not always. They Are increasingly not Only an extra added attraction but the source of raised eyebrows bulging eyeballs and astonished  Days bridesmaids some of hem Wear Black. ,.,". This in t a revolt on the part of bridesmaids fed to the Teeth with wearing pastels and later trying to convert Huffy Orchid or Pate yellow tulle into passable dinner dresses. Rather it is almost always the Bride s idea for any one of a number of reasons sometimes it s because she a basically a nonconformist a bit of a rebel. Sometimes and not infrequently it s because she and her attendants Are Young but no longer dewy eyed teen agers. This in turn leads to the fact thai Many of these brides have a sophisticated clothes sense and appreciate Hal their attendants do As Well and that these attendants would feel most comfortable wearing something that might become a useful part of their wardrobes. Bridal parties today Aren t necessarily in their 20s, and Many Don t want a pastel or frilly look said Honora Koran who owns prot a party in Manhattan a rental company Tor parly dresses Horan does t Cater to bridal parties per be but she does outfit individual bridesmaids and she said i be noticed an increasing number of Calls Tor  a whoever tells bridesmaids that they can Cut Down and Wear Pitt organza is full of baloney said Ronny Dobkin As she planned her wedding at windows on the world in Manhattan. Dobkin a product Developer Lor Alcott a Andrews said thai although 60 percent of her wardrobe was Black she would be wearing while i m the Bride -.,  she old her three bridesmaids that she would like hem to Wear Black and she did t care what style they  a. " it so happened Hal All three ended up choosing strapless designs but she said they re distinctly different from one another and at least he dresses   her Mother getting into the mood of the. Whole thing also selected a Black dress and the year old Flower girl rejected an Ivory lace number Hal had been selected for her in Lavor of Black velvet with pulled sleeves. I was the maid of Honor at my sister s wedding a year ago and i. Wore Black.1 said Dobkin who also rejected Law idea of in owing her bout us because my friends Are a Bunch of Over is some of them married and it would look ridiculous when Kim Unterberg was married earlier this year she Loo wore White but she wanted her live bridesmaids in Black. I did it for Shock value and also because in was a saturday night wedding and 1 i Hughl it would be Nice to be sophisticated and not cutesy she said. Not cutesy at All were the Large veiled Black hats balancing  Black Jacquard dresses. Ii was shocking Lor this area said Unterberg who owns a Beauty Salon in Allentown a. But the bridesmaids loved it and it s now their Basic Black dress it was dramatic and pretty Classy recalled Sandy Neiman the Bride s Cousin and a guest at the wedding