European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 18, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Daily Magazine chef Tull to Vacca explains the Fine Art of pasta making to Matthew bowl no from Cral Eshelm. The Maestro of perfect pasta Story and photos by Leah Larkin features editor t was hard not to fall in love he smiled he Lugod he charmed to entertained he had Hal contagious Lallian zest or life that hair Lor fun and Hal love Lor food. He could chop a Largo onion Inlo tiny morsels in seconds whip up a Beautiful fruit pie in minutes under his skillful hands a Sheet of pasta dough was instantly transformed Inlo Long thin transparent strips i love it. He s adorable said Beth Glenn who lives and works in Paris he s wonderful. He s so confident. The Way he communicates. He offers so much of himself said Pam Robinson a music teacher in Hohenfels and Regensburg. Wast Germany or. Joseph Carastro chief of orthodontics at the of cloth West Germany dental clinic found him  it s watching a skilled artist at work it s a thing of Beauty to watch he said. Tullio Vacca did More than conduct Lallian cooking lessons for the 30 americans who participated in his classes in the resort of Rapallo on the italian Riviera this summer. He put on a terrific show that Drew enthusiastic reviews even from non Cooks. I Don t enjoy cooking and i Don t go to All the lessons but i enjoy it when i m there said Glenn most of us of course had More than a casual interest in la Cucina italians italian cooking which led us to get involved in this three Day course. We were fascinated with the Way this Maestro peeled chopped sauteed grated blended kneaded browned oven the Way to could crack an egg All with such skill and dexterity As Well As super Speed and he never measured. A half cup milk he just poured from the bottle somehow knowing instinctively How much was needed a fish in a frying pan he could Tell simply by looking when it was done to perfection a pile of dough he automatically knew when it had been kneaded enough it s a wonderful learning experience. It s just terrific said Carastro i read cookbooks but there s no comparison to seeing it  Vacca a 35 year old native of Sardinia supervises a Kitchen stall of seven at the Euroll a Large hotel on a Hill overlooking the Bay of Rapallo. This was his third Lime conducting classes or aspiring american Cooks it s a lot of work he said. But it s  he kept the three hour sessions action packed. One morning we went from homemade pasta to summer salad to Tiramisu a Rich desert with some Carbonara sauce and an eggplant casserole squeezed in Between since there were so Many of us and space was limited we could not All participate in the cooking. Vacca did ask for volunteers to lest their talents on some of the More difficult tasks such As feeding dough through the pasta machine or making Panzott a Type of pasta Hal resembles a nun s Cap for which it is named. No one came near duplicating his finesse. But everyone got to taste each dish another Savory treat. If there was one thing our pro lessor wanted us to master it was the pasta machine alter All pasta is to Italy what Wurst is to Germany. Vacca gave us his recipe for pasta Lalla in Casa homemade pasta which we dutifully copied. Then he proceeded to ignore most of the instructions at least when it came to measurements and Bland a Quantity of hour eggs White wine to took a Lew sips Lisl and Olive Oil together coming up with the perfect mix. He rolled the dough into hat sheets and with thai professional touch led it Inlo the machine. Out came perfectly Beautiful noodles. He beamed to Anahed " it was poetry. It looked so easy like fun. Easy it want but Lun it was. By the end of the cooking school some 15 of us were determined to conquer pasta Lalla in Casa. We each purchased a manual pasta machine at a special rate about $40, plus several Othor Lallian cooking gadgets to make it All easier Back Home. Vacca s teaching teaching techniques Are As Good As his cooking. Or maybe it s the was to inspires. Whatever my pasta machine has not Bacomo another dust Catcher. It has been used several limes if not with the same artistry As my mentors at least with enough skill to produce edible results. Responsible for introducing Vacca to teaching is Larry Pisoni a hotel broker living in Italy who markets shopping and ski trips Lor americans As Well As Tho cooking schools. Although he is Lallian Pisoni confessed thai he was never interested in cooking. About 10 years ago he Mot an officer s wife in Diconza who fold him about a cooking school she had attended in Franco. At the time i did t know the difference Between garlic and onions he said. But i figured we could do anything belter and cheaper than the French. Ii was a Challenge now it s a great  he organizes several cooking schools per year some at the euro Tel on the italian Riviera and others at hotels in Northern Italy in the Dolomite mountains. The Price Lor the Rapallo package was 420 Marks about $225and included lodging Lor three nights. The classes and most meals. Each chef puts together his own program and decides what he will prepare while Pisoni s wife Carol. Translates during the sessions and puts All the recipes together in a Cookbook Lor Tho students. I m very enthusiastic about it she said i think Iho Mediterranean diet is the Best. Health articles say that whole grains fruits. Vegetables and Olive Oil Are Good for  she likes to relate a special Success Story. We even had a French chef continuation Page 14 food Friday August 18, 1989 the stars and stripes Page 13