European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 15, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse Mash pie continued from Page 13 realize How simple it is " witness the Success or rather Lack of it. In big Money marketing and today s last food Chain gimmicks a few doors away unlike pm Don s food the secret recipe there apparently was t linger lick Good enough not for people in these parts anyway pm Don. A widow Lor the last 20 years owns and operates two of three existing eat in or take Oul restaurants that in he 1933s belonged to her husband s brother in Law. George Kelly they never changed the name above the doors and pm Don has no plans to do so in the future in each of them tradition survives. Modem Day consumer demands elsewhere have had Little effect pm Don has even kept her hours apace with yesterday s she Only opens from 10am to 2pm. Monday to thursday 10 a m to 6 30 p m 10am to 530pm saturdays most of the surviving pie and Mash shops in London had beginnings As eel shops that sprang up in the 1800s. According to Geoffrey Fletcher a Long time londoner and the author of 12 books about the City. In his latest Book the London nobody knows Fletcher claims the shops Are one of the few places where the edwardian working class life of London survives unchanged " Fletcher thinks the eating of eels probably started when the Dulch began importing them around the second Hall of the 16th Century they were a regular article of diet for the Labouring he says. These Days. Pm Don says it is Loo much work to prepare her own eels and the Gelatin they re served in so she buys hers from a specialist she Sells them Only on thursdays. Fridays and saturdays Tho busiest Days. Most of her Trade though is in the plates of pie and Mash. The surroundings at pm Don s restaurants Are typical of most eateries of their kind half tiled Walls and Bright ceilings simple laminated benches and tables old. Etched mirrors Black and White photos featuring some Kelly history hanging plants and Long Marble serving counters thai lie just inside the doors. However spartan customers seem Happy to sit Down with Fork and spoon and dig in to a simple meal pie. Some mashed potatoes in a Green Parsley Gravy called liquor. Despite a few Kitchen aides like an electric mixer and a potato Masher tradition is still holding its ground in the Back of the Kingdon s Busy restaurant where a handful of workers go about the business of Han making meat pies boiling and mashing potatoes and cooking the Parsely Gravy. Every few minutes Young Leslie Bruce takes a break from tending his oven to shuttle a bucket of mashed potatoes or a tray holding a Lew dozen hot pies through the dining throng to the front counter. Everything says pm Don wagging a Finger is made fresh every Day. The menu behind the counter lists Only eels meal pies Mash and a Lew soft drinks or Lea the traditional beverage in those restaurants. A sign outside advertises fresh Plum and fruit pies. Buy one for about $1.60 and Kingdon s stall will Cut you a slice to eat there and wrap the Resl to Lake Home Kingdon is reluctant to talk about ingredients or recipes she does say her pies rectangular pastry satchels with a few ounces of ground beef a Trace of water and colouring Are cradled in two types of flour dough one for the lop and another Lor the Bottom. The Mash is nothing More than boiled and mashed up spuds with a Little Salt and Pepper thrown in. Her Parsley sauce not unlike that found in any other pie and Mash shop is a concoction of Parsley Hakes baled in water and some Salt. While eels like oysters to Many Are an acquired taste the pie and Mash flavor May be one that is familiar to most americans who have Ealen any number of ground beef based american recipes like Shepherd s pie. Aside from the Parsley sauce Kingdon does Little to add to the natural Flavouring of the meat dough or potatoes she serves. It lakes Only a splash of vinegar and a Little Salt to bring them to me. Despite ils simplicity. Kingdon says the business of pie and Mash production is Complex. Goldie Bickley would agree. You can t make it yourself insists Bickley who lives across Lown in the Borough of Wall Amslow. No Mailer How hard you filly nine year old Rose Andrews who admits to a pie and Mash habit she lends to three times weekly does t even try. I be been coming hero All my me says Andrews Over a plate of Kingdon s Best you can t beat favorite Kitchen gadgets by Beverly Bundy will be the first to admit it i m cookware Junkie if it s new. If it s shiny in i be Neverseen one before. I la buy it. If i can figure out what it s Lor without Reading the Label i la break my neck to get to the Cash Register. And in most cases i try in once and in gels relegated to the Back of my Kitchen cabinets like men. There Are few perfect Kitchen gadgets. But that does t mean any of us Are going to give up the search. My husband and i bought our House because there was a wealth of Kitchen cabinets hah. Now crammed with a Samovar from Iran a couscous pol from Morocco assorted pots and pans of dubious Worth a pasta machine from a Christmas past and an eff user my Mother was sure i could t live without we re without Cabinet space. My addiction will never be cured. I m afraid. And it s probably Lor Lack of trying. Every year my husband fills my Christmas stocking with Kitchen doodads you see. It s a shared affliction that i la have to store in the bedroom Bureau. But when it s All said and done there Are Only about 10 Kitchen gadgets that Are essential to my Kitchen. Anything else is window dressing. Here Are my favourites knives Iii were going to be stranded on a deserted Island i think i could manage just about anything in i had my 12-Inch chel s knife with me. I could Peel a pineapple gut a fish Devin a shrimp or mince mangos. In the everybody Kitchen Good Sharp knives Are absolutely mandatory. The three i rely on Are the chef s knife a 4-Inch paring knife and a boning knife. My knives happen to be Henckels but any High Quality read higher priced stainless steel or Carbon Blade knife will do. Bui no Mailer what Brand you own the care and maintenance of knives should be the same. Never Wash them in the dishwasher and do nol store them in a Kitchen drawer. I keep mine on a Wall mounted Magnet rack because i found that the Bulky knife Block was taking up too much counter lop space. Restaurant chefs touch their knives to the sharpening steel every time they pull them out for use. It s a Good habit to acquire. Knives should be Profe about once a year. Food processor in processor one year for three years to get Arou now i Don t know How i it s perfect to make it soups grate Large qua even to make pie Doug if you be got a proce Kitchen bring it out an top where you la Force everyday cooking. My blender now oct because the processor blender does and mor mixer. The Only Bac Mother Ever gave me v held portable mixer. She said it would do Standard mixer would take up one fourth the you might As Well Bea a whisk in a bowl As h with that Mickey Mous my mixer is my Hust Hamilton Beach circa simple and it s obvious mixer so much that i re exactly like it at an est bought it just in Case should break. Pepper Mill we go possible at Home but we have several Mills brass turkish Coffee g Pepper. The Collee i Pepper into More of a flakes that Are custom Pepper grinder. In addition this Grin facts on thermometers by Joan Drake los Angeles times in cooking procedures like baking roasting Candy making and deep lat frying accurate temperatures Are critical. Using a thermometer can mean the difference Between Success and failure of a recipe. There Are two Basic types of her comoters bimetal and Glass tube. The Book cooking a to z explains bimetal thermometers have a lace like a dial and a Pointer. The Pointer moves by action of a Spring made of two metals welded together which react differently to heat. A change in temperature causes the Spring to wind or unwind and move the Pointer around the dial. Bimetal Isheim meters Are less accurate than the Glass tube Type but the dials Are easier to read and they hold a temperature Reading the Book goes on to say Glass tube models Register temperature by the expansion or contraction of a fluid me Cury or a coloured liquid trapped in a thin column of Glass it notes that Glass tube thermometers Are very accurate and responsive but Are fragile and More difficult to read than a dial some thermometers Are multipurpose and have a wide temperature Range All temperatures in this column Are Given in fahrenheit. Others have a More narrow Range for greater accuracy and Are intended for a single purpose like As the following oven thermometers although conventional ovens have internal thermostats they May not always be calibrated accurately and sometimes become defective. Ovens also tend to have hoi and cold spots. A supplemental thermometer provides an added Check that the appliance is working properly and pinpoints problem areas. Oven thermometers typically Register temperatures up to 600 or 700 degrees. In years past oven temperatures were often expressed in words but today the use of exact degrees is Standard. Here s a translation of the terms very slow 250-300 degrees Stow 300-325 degrees moderately slow 325-350 degrees moderate 350-375 degrees Quick moderate 375-400 degrees moderately hoi 400-425 degrees hot 425-450 degrees very hot 450-500 degrees extremely hot 500-525 degrees me at thermometers internal temperature is the Best indication of oneness for meats f slow response Lype to temperatures up to at Are recommended for ovens. Insert the prob poultry before cooking position throughout to instant read therm internal temperatures degrees after being or about 10 seconds. The useful for taking quiet cooked by rotisserie � plastic slow response be used inside Micro these Are the recon temperatures Lor Mea fahrenheit beef125 to 130 145 degrees Lor Media Well done. Lamb 130-140 d degrees for medium done. Pork 145-150 de degrees for Well done poultry 170-175 180 degrees for Well to veal 140-145 de degrees Lor Well done Candy making t upper limit of approx necessary to provide above the High of 31c some candies. Most i and have a clip so the the Side of the pan. Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday sept
