European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 21, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Is photos by Michael Abrams vineyards if id Down the hillsides to St. Hippolyte. Course ,1  train and a farmhouse inn. The next Village. Is Hippolyte is in the Valley in Low hit i Laul Koenigsburg Castle and Marks the beginning of the i laut Rhin upper Rhein Region of Alsace and inc end of the Bas Rhine tobacco growing area. The vineyards from there to go Enwiller enjoy an unusual Linale because of the Protection afforded by the Vosges. The Lack of rainfall Ami sunny Summers Anel the wine of course benefits. Is. Hippolyte was i City in the 14th Century and Mut h remains of the architecture of the past. I he Gol Hii. Churi a dating from the 14th and 15th Century with a lower from iio2, is a Beautiful example. I he town of i Beauville which we visited Nel is considered nne of the High Points of wine Road. Frankly we were disappointed. We found it overrun with tourists the streets clogged with cars and every other shop Pik a with Kitschy souvenirs. All this detracted immensely from its Charm. The town overlooked by three ruined castles dating from the ii in through the 14th centuries was ruled by the counts of Ribeau Pierre from the 12lh Century until the revolution. Granted there is a lot to see. Surviving its medieval past is the butchers Tower Buill in the i 3th t in lure with ramparts the St. Gregory Church dating irom 1282 to 1471 anal the Church of notre Dame a former Augustine Church 1412 that now is a cloister. The former is. Catherine Chapel of the Hospital is now the Home of the local museum. A bust of Albert Schweitzer in Kay Serberg. The crowded streets of Kibe Airville. Still we were glad to leave. We found the Village of Riquez Viher much More to our liking. The hotel rooms had been taken by the time we arrived. We Wen.1 Able to  lodging not far ar.,. On the outskirts of the Liny wine Village of Yellenberg. At Dawn the View from the hotel was breathtaking i he Rosy rooftops of Yellenberg stood out against the Silver Blue line of the Distant Vosges. Crowing co i., were answered by the ringing of Church Beds we returned to  Early in the Ornim in Lake in the sights. The town was bustling. I he inc a Wen preparing for the Day s onslaught of tourists there was traffic on the main Street now delivery Rucks but in was soon gone. The town is surrounded by old Walls and it Lowers. The upper lower tailed the a Nutler Dales from 12 l i and houses a museum. A thie k Vine Huni with grapes extends across the Street Between the museum and the Oher Lor upper Gale a walk through the town revealed Many Uiel Corners and Little hidden courtyards where Friendly cats basked in the morning Sun. One of the Many Lille Side Streels off the main Street. Rue flu general de Gaulle is he narrow Kile Des Luis. Ii leads to the Luden Hof  Quarter where the jewish population was forced to live during Lite Middle Ages. In my it 21 of the residents revolted with the result that jewish Cili a is Wen banned from the Lown. Behind the Ludo Liol is lie i ill Century Lour Des voyeurs thieves Tower where thieves were once incarcerated. A torture chamber museum is now housed inside. I lie Tower is open daily from Good i riday to nov. 1.1 from 15 . To noon and from i 0 to it . Kay Serberg is As pre Tlyas r i new Chr and Juzeler. It lies serenely at the loot of a Castle thai probably was built by Barbarossa and is famed As the birth place e of or. Albert Sihweil or a i 51 Nobel i Rie Winner swi Zweiter. Who died in \ a was born in Kravse Berg in 1075.1 Lis birth place eat 126 Rue Clu general he Gaulle is now a museum open from May 2 Looi i. I i from . To Noi in and from 2 to 6 . The route then took us on to Turckheim a Lmh lies not far from Colmar and Marks the Entrance Lollie Munster Valley. I Rorn taster until autumn a night watchman in traditional costume makes his rounds of 1 Urc Kheim at 10 or 11 . I Jui sheim our next Stop was an astounding sight concentric houses  aligned on ancient ramparts dating from 12s7, from the Bills above. This i ire ular City s layout is clearly visible. I Riu Isheim the Birthplace of Pope i to in in 101 to is said to be one of the most ancient villages in  e. Archaeol Gic at digs there unearthed the lust traces of Cro Magnon Man. The soaring Cathedral at thann. In the Center of the compact walled City islands a fortress that was built in the seventh c Elury Anil three Castle ruins stand Fin the Hill above town f he castles were destroyed in 14f r by mul Housian assisted by the people of Kay Serberg and Tun Kheim. As we neared the end of our journey the villages took on an entirely dilute retail t Hare Ter. We re Ai hed gue Hersi  late in the afternoon. Ii seemed like a Southern City during Llie siem Juruse. A few old men a it in the Village Square providing the Only signs of life. The Norma Neso be buildings had a rold and uninviting appearance. We were told thai behind the walled Garden. The i lure is entirely i Lierenz. And that Vve should return Lor the one of its festivals. Then you will see How Lively it is we were assured. I Altenheim the nem Village was Guebert Mihr s near twin and then Usu the Small town of  a a former Koman Village along the roman Road. Ii is situated at the food m the Isenburg Castle where King Charles sinned the Charters of donation in the eighth Century. Most of the town s historic buildings  near the notre Dame Church Square. Run Iiah is not Visi Leel my great numbers of tourists but is Worth seeing. Hie Church is impressive. There  Fine examples of Renaissance architecture. Still we had the feeling that the wine Road had wound Down loan ignominious end. Gue Wille a where we found accommodations for the night did nothing to change the impression. The town became completely Indus Riali de Al the turn of the 19th Century. For some time it was second Only to mull Iuse in textile production. The vintners House s we re turned into quarters for the workers. I he t Loister was made into a manufacturing Plant. Today in s a Hodge podge of building styles. A modern shopping mall Mars the main Streel a one Way affair Conge sled by aulos. The late Romanes be Church is said to be a Masterwork but the town on the whole presented a St Ruffy picture. The Road from Soull to Cernay goes through some Lovely tree lined mountains. Vreim cer Nayon. The vineyards All but disappeared. Instead there Vve re e Vvs and rows of Corn we did t expel i rime h from t Hann the last Slop. What a Breal flaking Surprise was in store the t Hann Cathedral. It was Llie first thing Vve saw on entering town and in was love at first sight. This magnificent creation with a spire carved like lace is the most Jurat Leristis gothic building in Alsace the richest after the Strasbourg Cathedral. The spire of Strasbourg is the highest say the locals. The spire e f Freiburg is the biggest. But the spire of t Hann is the most Beautiful we could not disagree. Thann s collegiate Church with ils magnificent carved main Portal its steeple1, its stained Glass windows and roof of Many coloured tiles was a worthy end to the wine Roath. September 21,1989 strip it Magazine