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Publication: European Stars and Stripes Friday, September 22, 1989

You are currently viewing page 14 of: European Stars and Stripes Friday, September 22, 1989

   European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 22, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Dining continued irom Page 13 Lor the culinary arts allot ust three years he began winning recognition irom restaurant guides he is not unduly disturbed that he has not been awarded a coveted Michelin Star i m satisfied to have it noted Hal i serve Quality food and Hal the prices Are in  he said whenever possible Zmock makes use of the Bounty of the local Countryside the Lish irom its streams and the game from its forests recently he has become interested in old alsatian recipes he said he finds the use of ingredients interesting and has been experimenting putting them into forms to suit today s palates he will soon add an alsatian dinner to Ihn a Cheval Blanc menu ii will consist of free courses each served with an appropriate alsatian wine the Cost will be about 230 francs $35 per person he said Zinck and Kerala Bolh plan to Oiler classes in cooking Zinck s classes will begin in october and explore fish cookery and the making of pastries it a Havo English speaking participants a translator will be  he said Kerala will Oiler Winter courses in English. French and German in irad Donal alsatian cooking. For further Inlo Malion on the classes Contact a Cheval Blanc 67510 Nieder Sembach Telephone 88095531 or Maison Ullmann. 49 Rue in Cipale 67510. Obers Leinbach Telephone 88092547 the prefix for dealing France from Germany is 0033 pastries such a Apple tart front and Koug Olhoft Back make Lor delicious eating. Alsatian specialities include quiche Lorraine left onion tarts Center and other baked goodies. Hearty fare with a flair there Are those who say that Alsace snot really France. They Don t consider the food of the Region French either. But then the food is certainly not German. It is a Hearty fare with a flair All its own. Unfortunately the regional dishes that earned Alsace its cooking laurels Are not always easy to find. The area is suffering an Era of pretension with the result that restaurants out to make names for themselves often ignore the local dishes opting instead for Tho More elaborate French cuisine. La Maison Des t6les in Colmar and the caveat Saint Martin in King theim Are both reported however to do a Good Job on alsatian specialities. The latter is particularly noted for its Large Liambee. A pizza like specially of the Region. For Cho Croutc alsatian sauerkraut try la Maison Des tanners in Strasbourg where Nancy Reagan dined during a european visit in May 1985. Chou Roule one of the most alsatian of alsatian dishes is said to have been introduced by the romans. This version of pickled cabbage topped with a Mound of meal is hardly Nouvelle cuisine. Tho meal can vary according to what is available. Included can be Ham. Smoked loin of pork various sorts of sausage maybe a pork chop or a chunk of Goose or game. All Are prepared with wine onions and various seasonings and the dish is usually accompanied by boiled potatoes. Chou Roule Royale arrives with a split of Cremando Alsace bubbly alsatian wine which is to be squirted Over the whole ust before serving. Another famed alsatian specially is Zewe Lawior Tarle Aux of goons onion tart. This country dish has also gone cosmopolitan and is often found among the starters in Many exclusive City restaurants. Somewhat similar Are Tare Lorraine and quiche Lorraine. The former is a tart of pork and veal plus onions and spices with an egg and Cream filling. The latter is the world famous tart of Bacon with a filling of eggs and Cream. Local variations May include the addition of onions and or cheese. One of the most alsatian of alsatian Dushi culinary historians say that these pastry dishes Are descendants of the roman Lorna in which various ingredients were combined with a custard and served on a base of pastry. Tarle Liambee however is not like any of the usual tarts. Ii is often made at stands outside Little local restaurants. Bread dough is smoothed out wafer thin lopped with eggs and possibly Bacon and onions then briskly cooked to crispness in a Wood fired oven. Relays of tables Lambda ate brought to the table to be eaten with the lingers. You la often see the words a i a Lacienne on a menu. This generally Means that the dish is served or cooked with cabbage or Chou Roule possibly also with sausages and potatoes. A la Vosgi Enne signifies that onions and possibly Mirabelle Small Golden plums Are in the dish. When fish or poultry Are cooked in wine it is usually specified Coq a riesling Elo. Sausages Are big in the alsatian menu. Among those offered Are cer Velat a smoked pork sausage Mictl Wilst. A sausage mainly made of beef Soucisse tie Strasbourg a mixture of pork and beef that is lightly smoked and contains Caraway seeds Knock Wurst. A blood sausage and Soucisse tie month Liard a lightly smoked pork sausage. Gre Noailles a la Bouley Irons legs rolled in crumbs shallots and Parsley then Fried Are a True alsatian delicacy. This dish Dales from nov. 16,1821, when an Accident caused the Welz Reservoir to break and let Loose a sudden glut of frogs which Thrifty housewives Felt obliged to use in various ways. From age Blanc is a White curd cheese served with dishes of chopped Parsley onions garlic shallots and boiled or baked potatoes. It is generally Only seen in country restaurants. Poisson a la Gelee Duvin fish in wine Jelly is usually Carp or Pike poached in red wine and allowed to Cool when it looks like a pinkish aspic Jelly. Bar Leduc is the name Given to the red or White currant preserves made in the town by this name. The Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday sep .1  
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