European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 30, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                New dress shapes newest evening dresses atop at mid thigh level have either draped or fluttery Akl rtt Here if Enolal designer Donna Karan i flip top style tide draped tort. Simpler than separates by Bernadine Morris new York times is the dress bounding Back into fashion foreground in the United states after a couple of decades on the Back Burner Donna Karan is one of Many influential american designers who think it is citing the easy non restrictive shapes that fit comfortably into women s Active lives. This is what i feel like wearing myself Karan said As she contemplated the dresses in her Spring collection. It s simpler than separates and it has t been around for a Long time. It looks fresh  her collection was filled with new dress shapes some Moused some draped across Hie front and fastened at one Side alongside that old standby the Chemise. They had the same free and easy fit of her More familiar separates. Karan is not alone. The new wave of Young designers in new York like Marc Jacobs and Isaac Mizrahi tends to View the dress favourably As an artefact of the fashion of the 1960s, a period that represents to them a Golden age of free expression. Both of them show a number of swing tent styles that have a Young playful look. With his Tablecloth Check dresses some with Borders of knives and Forks Jacobs achieved a sly humor in his Perry Ellis collection. Mizrahi s Short lace dresses were on the same Wavelength As those of More mature designers who Are rejuvenating this often stodgy material. The Short hemlines which All designers Are showing reinforce the 60s connection when All hemlines were mini and dresses were As important in the typical wardrobe As suits or jackets with skirts or pants Are today. Designers like Karan and Mizrahi see the dress and jacket As an important combination. Two reasons for the revival of the dress Are that it is easy to put on and that the wearer does not have to assemble myriad pieces of apparel that look right together. One zip and you re  Karan said. Sometimes one  that is of course viewed As an advantage to the woman who has to dress rapidly in the morning to gel to work. Ralph Lauren has Long been an advocate of one piece dressing and not exclusively for the woman with such a Job. It is an alternative to the suit Fie said he offers Snappy versions of the dress in Navy Blue decorated with Gold braid and buttons Lor Spring. He Calls it the Blazer dress and Points out that the buttons and braid have a military flavor. Many dress styles look like anachronisms including the Flower printed Silks that Are always part of French couture collections even though viewers often wonder what kind of woman buys them and where she wears them. Very formal lunches or afternoon Leas Are possibilities the new dresses however look Breezy and uncomplicated and usually quite Young. One enthusiastic supporter Geoffrey Beene explained that except for jump suits he had no pants in his Spring collection. But he did show four different kinds of dresses styles with fitted waistlines and full skirts Semi fitted chemises. Empire styles and playful swing tent dresses i wanted the collection to represent Complete  Beene said that s Why i did t bother to include pants and Why i made so Many dresses " he likes the combination of a dress with a jacket or Coal in a related fabric. It has a different flavor from suit  he said the outfit can be versatile because the different pieces can be worn separately but what i like about it Best is its essentially feminine look " on i 3y Deborah Hofmann jew York times two decades ago. Climbing skirt length produced a new kind of underpinning  this new decade panty Hose Are again playing a key role but now they Are opaque rights making the wearer feel less exposed in a Short skirt or More pulled together no matter the hem length Sid Smith the president of the National association of hosiery manufacturers in the United states said we re in neg at 8.3 million dozens of pairs shipped in 1989. Be shipped Only one million dozens of pairs in 1980." the dominant trends Are designer labels Subtle fashion shades like Bronze Garnet Loden or steel Gray my ribbing or other patterns. This year s crop also incorporates features previously found Only in conventional sheers like the control top prices Are sometimes High As much As $25 a pair but makers say that opaque hosiery provides Good value because it is run resistant. The total look this season is dependent upon Shorter lems a covered leg and flatter shoes said Joni Zeller he vice president of merchandising for Calvin Klein hosiery. About half the Calvin Klein hosiery sold for fall and Winter was opaque prices for tights Are $8.50 and $14 in August Giorgio Armani introduced a line of Wool Cashmere silk and Cotton Lycra tights in sophisticated shades and weaves that complement his clothing despite the Premium Price $17 to $25 a pair Hamilton South a spokesman for Armani in the United states said that sales Are exploding at stores like Saks fifth Avenue Bloomingdale a Nordstrom Barneys new York Bergdorf Goodman and i. Magnin Donna Karan s Matte Jersey opaque tights coordinated with her collection made their debut two years ago. Many colors from the current Karan collection of tights now in a ribbed style and in 10 shades including Palomino Are available at places like Bergdorf Goodman. Saks. Bloomingdale a Barneys. Macy s and Neiman Marcus Lor $12 to $22 the Polo Ralph Lauren line produced by hot sox. Comes in a dozen shades for $12 to $16. A few seasons ago. We thought it would be novel to do tights said Susan Marchand the vice president of design for hot sox. Now they re so Strong that they re part of our Basic selection a Given and they be found their Way into every woman s  hot sox Sells Cotton Lycra tights under its own Label in a dozen jewel tones for $5 to $12. At Dupont Frank Oswald compiles statistics on the company s sales of Nylon and Lycra Libers to hosiery Mills in 1986, he said 15 manufacturers were Selling opaque tights his 1989 canvass turned up More than 60. The company that leads the trend is Hue. Because its tights Are one size fits All most stores can display the full line 20 colors in three weights and assorted textures and patterns. Its single size gives Hue a marketing advantage retailers say since with other lines stores generally Stock Only a few colors in on average five sizes. Hue tights Are $12 for Cotton solids. In textures or patterns which include Leopard spots Paisley and Fleurs de Lis they Cost j13.50. The line is sold to 1.300 accounts nationwide including most department stores. The big question for hosiery makers is what happens in warmer weather. So far customers have tended to revert to sheerer leg Wear when the Mercury climbs with Short skirts in the fashion forecast Hue believes that will change so it is shipping lightweight lights Lor Spring. The naked leg looks  said Sandy Chilewich. Who owns Hue with a partner. Kathy Moskal. The proportions Are All wrong silk stockings in he 1940s and panty Hose in the 1960s, both were Strong statements today it s texture and  Paisley tights by Hue come in nine color combinations and go Lor $13.50 in new York. Ary30,1990 stars and stripes Page 15