European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 7, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A world of stylish options not this ensemble by Valentino captures it All for fall. The Short flared skirt is topped with a plaid jacket and a Long coat Over the knee boots add the finishing touch. Wardrobe tips a a. By Marilyn Johnson Cox news service fashion dictum Are a thing of the past. It was Clear from the recent ready to Wear shows in Paris that there Are no rules. One moment the classic simple Back dress shone next a wildly patterned and embroidered suit. For every Over the knee High heeled suede Boot there was a pair of Low heeled lace up shoes. Even the lines dividing fabrics Between . And . Have blurred. Velvet Gold lame and Metallica Are now used for Day Wear. Tweed Gray flannel and Black leather step out at night. Welcome to the world of options. As usual the French showings were filled with ideas and messages. Quot that s Why one goes to Paris Quot said sol Kent fashion director for Rich s department stores in the United states Quot to stretch the mind and Sharpen the  four trends came into focus and ran through All collections. Long Over Short the favored Silhouette was Long Over Short or Long Over Skinny. Designers started with a jacket a often elongated and fitted through the Waist a then added skintight leggings or Skinny trousers which could also take the form of Stirrup pants. Jackets and tunics were also paired with Short Flippy skirts a pleated or Cut into an a line. In Paris Short meant Short with skirts ranging anywhere from 2 inches above the Knees at Yves Saint Cox news service f you want to spark up your fall wardrobe with one new item consider the following. A a line also known As the trapeze this shape shows up in swing Little dresses and Short Coats. A boots Black suede Over the knee boots with a High Heel were the hands Down Winner in Paris. Some Are embroidered in Gold or with Flowers others Are in red. A details watch for quilting on parkas sleeves and bags fur and Feather trims on sleeves and necklines lace trims lavish embroidery tassels and fringe jewelled buttons studs on gloves or boots drawstrings on jackets. A High heels when designers did t show boots they showed higher heeled pumps in suede or leather. And yes Flats were also shown. A hoods every designer showed them on Coats jackets and capes. They ranged from pointed Little embroidered numbers at Romeo Gigli to soft Chiffon at Yves Saint Laurent. A jewelry Chunky necklaces were often worn two at a time. Long earrings that drop to the shoulders were still in evidence. Also important wide cuff bracelets worn at the wrists or higher up on the arms Faux Gem pins on pockets. A jacket the fitted longer jacket was everywhere sometimes with a flared skirt. However the blouson and the Parka were also important. A leather smooth leather not suede showed up in Many collections for Day and night in Black or Bright tones. A leggings the majority were in Black sometimes knitted or ribbed. When designers opted for stockings they showed sheer Black or Brown ones not opaque stockings a big change from last year. A Ltd the Little Black dress was sexy Short and usually Bare through the shoulders. It boasted a variety of necklines a something for everyone. A pleats they ranged from accordion pleats at Valentino to Box pleats at Chanel. Pants and sleeves As Well As skirts were pleated. A stoles and capes the newest were knit in Bright colors such As hot Pink trimmed in yellow or Lime Green with Cobalt at Ungaro. Capes often were worn with stoles which were thrown around shoulders or necks. Smaller scarves were wrapped around hips or Heads. Laurent to Micro minis Al Chanel. Most jacket shoulders had some Type of pad. The huge linebacker pads Are passe and the shoulder line has softened but shoulder pads Are not gone. Folkloric this trend dubbed Quot International ethnic Quot by the retailer s daily paper women s Wear daily is simply called Quot folkloric Quot by everyone else. In this colourful look which is mainly borrowed from Eastern Europe and Northern Africa there is a dizzying dazzling blend of patterns colors textures and fabrics. Often All ingredients Are used in a single outfit. Flower print velvets Gold peasant embroideries and Lush Rich tapestries were combined into Jacquard sweaters and appliqued vests smocks and shawls worn with dirndl skirts leggings or bodysuits. Sportive . Bean look outerwear items such As hooded parkas ponchos and anoraks have become Chic Quot in Quot Wear. Everyone including Lagerfeld at Chanel and Gigli had a quilted Parka in his or her collection and teamed it with leggings Skinny trousers or a Short skirt. To give these jackets a sporty feeling drawstrings turned up everywhere including hems and hoods. Fabrics ranged from satins and Silks to tweeds and velvets. Bright colors everyone was pleasantly surprised at All the color on the runways. Red ranging from Tomato to Ruby was the standout. Gianfranco Ferre opened the dior show with models in Bright red suits Coats and capes. Other designers peppered red throughout their collections for Day or night. Fancy fabrics Are in. Here Given Chy uses a Brown Copper Bronze Leopard print Lurex speckled with Satin to create a sexy cocktail dress. Saturday april 7, 1990 the stars and stripes a a a Page 13