European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 24, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Copper wares displayed outside a shop Ravelero a tips although Turkey is a secular state visitors should remember that it is 99 percent moslem and religion plays an important part in everyday life. Tourists should avoid entering mosques at the daily prayer times you la hear the Call Over loudspeakers everywhere. When entering a mosque visitors should observe the tradition of removing their shoes women should also cover their Heads. Other tips for visitors to Istanbul food and drink even if you Are a timid eater you la have no trouble finding restaurants in every Price Range. You can eat Well for less than $15. Fashionable new places where upper class turks go to see and be seen Are popping up All Over the City a at fashionable prices. Kortez in the asian Village of Kalica sends its private boat to pick up diners from the european Shore. At Park Samdan and me duh Pasha Valisi in the Northern european suburbs you Dine in gardens under towering Trees. Closer to downtown Power lunches and turkish yuppies patronize Ziya Zihni and memo. Long time lunch favourites include Liman Lowanta atop the International ship passenger terminal and Pandelis in the spice Market. At any of these a meal of several courses with wine can reach new York prices. Seafood is surprisingly expensive for a waterfront City but for one of the least expensive and freshest seafood meals look for a Small restaurant called Ahta pot octopus in an atmospheric setting behind the be Sliktas fish Market. Streets of the Kum Kapi District Are lined with seafood restaurants. Lamb makes up the main course at most meals but the snack Loving turks always Start with several appetizers or Meses. Many restaurants offer dozens of these hot or cold hours d oeuvres which usually include Tofte or meatballs and Pate fresh salads and vegetable dishes. Among the favourites circassian Chicken Cerkez Tau go which is minced Chicken with chopped walnuts. Desserts Are Middle Eastern pastries such As Baklava or fresh fruit. For lunch snack bars and cafeterias sell delicious sandwiches of shish Kebab and Doner Kebab lightly spiced Boneless Lamb pieces packed on a revolving vertical spit. Another Good fast Foud bet is Borek pastry filled with cheese or meat. As an afternoon pick me up there s thick Sweet turkish Coffee or Light fragrant Tea served with Lemon and sugar cubes but never milk. Ayran is a Cool Yogurt drink. A favorite portable snack is a Simet a crusty bread ring sprinkled with sesame seeds similar to but tastier than giant pretzels. And there s always do Durma or ice Cream. Unlike most islamic nations which ban alcohol Turkey even produces its own Beer wine and Vodka. The potent National drink is Raki an Anise Flavoured Clear liqueur. Lodging the City had at last count 1 58 hotels rated by the ministry of tourism with new ones opening All the time. There Are nine five Star lodgings including a Hilton a Sheraton a ramada and the historic Pera Palace most atmospheric of the deluxe lodgings. It was built to House passengers on the Orient express and was where Agatha Christie holed up to write her Best Selling mystery about the famed train that ran from Paris to Istanbul. Another top Choice is the Yesil eve Green Housea beautifully reconstructed ottoman mansion just Steps from St. Sophia and the Blue mosque. The rear Garden is pleasant for a drink or dinner and everyone is Welcome. The nearby Aya Sofya pensions in a Row of similarly designed townhouses also offer Charm at somewhat lower prices. Hotel prices Start about $30 a Day and top out at close to $200. Shopping the Kapali Carsi a Istanbul s grand Bazaar a and the aromatic egyptian Bazaar also known As spice Market both offer a Bounty of wares for shoppers with Sharp eyes and Calm nerves. No one should leave Istanbul without visiting the cavernous covered Bazaar a 50-acre Maze with More than 4,000 shops. Each Trade once had its own Street but now jewelry carpets ceramics leather goods and Copper Ware Are piled Side by Side along four Miles of winding pathways. Quality and Quantity also can exist Side by Side so buyers must beware. If elegant stores Are More your style Check out the shops along Istiklal Maddesi which runs from Maksim Square toward Galata Bridge. The City s Central business District is rum Eli Caddess in the Nisan Tasi Section beyond the Hilton. For an outstanding selection of antique Copper Ware Stop at May on a Small Alley off the latter thoroughfare. Nisan Tasi is also the place to Sample contemporary turkish Art. Among the More interesting galleries Are Libriz and Tern. Collectors also seek out the bit pazar in old Stamboul which houses six floors of shops Selling Fine Antiques. A .  top shoppers inspect merchants goods inside Istanbul s vast covered Bazaar. Above renovated wooden Homes line this outer Wall of top Kapi Palace. Customers Ponder an array of herbs and spices and nuts in a shop in the spice Bazaar. May 24, 1990 stripes Magazine 17