European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 1, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Nix Tex mex Diana Kennedy Cooks up the real thing by Beverly Bundy Diana Kennedy there is no substitute. In her determination her lifestyle her convictions and even her patrician voice Kennedy reminds me most of Katharine Hepburn. In the food world she a a one of a kind personality. A it you go to someone a House and they be prepared tuna casserole because they want to spend time with their guests beware Quot Kennedy says. Quot bring guests into the Kitchen while you re cooking. That Way the food does no to  Quot if a dinner guest of mine does no to comment on the food he a never invited  Kennedy a Niche is the food of Mexico. Not Tex mex not California mexican or Arizona mexican. Black olives grated Cheddar cheese and massive doses of cumin have no place in her Kitchen. Kennedy Brooks no fools in her cooking classes or in her life. Students Are told to Wear no perfume not to talk among themselves and not to smoke during classes. People who show up and begin scrambling for forgotten paper and pens Are met with exasperation. A Dallas wine expert tells of a class with Kennedy that met with typical reaction. Kennedy was using banana leaves to wrap a tamale in the demonstration. The Dallas woman asked what could be used instead of banana leaves. Quot you live in Dallas. There  be a  Kennedy said. A you Plant a banana tree and you la have leaves whenever you want  British born Kennedy first came to Mexico in 1957 to marry Paul Kennedy chief Central american correspondent for the new York times. Already a Well grounded Cook she was fascinated by the markets and cuisine of her new Home. Researching the ancient cuisines of Mexico became a Hobby. In the late 60s, the couple moved Back to new York City when he was diagnosed with cancer. After her husbands death at the urging of new York times food editor Craig Claiborne Kennedy began teaching mexican cooking in new York City. Over the following years she wrote four books the cuisines of Mexico mexican regional cooking the Tortilla Book and nothing fancy. The first three books Are mandatory for anyone wanting to know about real mexican food. The fourth is a charming collection of autobiographical notes and recipes from her adopted Mexico to remembrances of childhood teas in England. Her Masterwork a collection of 280 mexican recipes is the Art of mexican cooking a compilation of Kennedy s 32-year mexican experience. So comprehensive is Kennedy s work in recording the disappearing traditional cuisine of Mexico that the mexican government awarded her the order of the Aztec Eagle the highest Honor bestowed on foreigners. In the flurry of writing teaching and publishing Kennedy decided to return to Mexico to follow another lifelong passion. She bought land near i Tacquaro in the state of Michoacan a four hour drive from Mexico City. Through much trial and error she built an environmentally sound Adobe House. Mexican neighbors were amused at the Daft englishwoman building a House where there is no water. Kennedy a willpower won out and the House is such a showplace that it was featured in architectural digest. Not Only is the House a showplace Kennedy s planning stood up when the House was undamaged by the earthquake that devastated Mexico City. The House is built on the Side of an incline. A huge Boulder projects into the living room keeping the House warm in Winter. The three level living room faces a greenhouse and multiple terraces project from All the rooms into the Lush growth of Kennedy s surrounding five acres. The greenhouse shows evidence of Kennedy penchant for authenticity. She tried to grow Chiles native to Yucatan but found they  grow in the Central mexican soil. So she brought in a Load of Yucatan soil and the Chiles Are doing just Fine thank you very much. Classes at Kennedy s Home in Mexico Are particularly full of her personality. Rain has been scarce in Mexico in recent years and she recycles As much water As possible. Quot when using the bathroom please put the toilet paper in the plastic bucket not in the toilet Quot Kennedy tells students. Quot it s a bizarre House but i m bizarre so what the  Quot i done to really care what people say about me. As Long As my work is respected that a what matters. A a writer Diana Kennedy. Kennedy is As demanding of herself As she is of others. When teaching classes throughout the United states and Canada she does her own grocery shopping. Menus Are not decided until she knows what a available in local stores. Kennedy peppers her classes with Little asides that show a personality As Resolute As her beliefs. She tells a Story about a firefighter priest who is a Comrade in arms in her War for the environment. Quot he takes the Young boys out and shows them How to control the fires in the area. He lets me know what s going on around Here a Kennedy said. But this in t quite enough for Kennedy. Quot i asked him what the Catholic Church is doing about birth control. Population growth is threatening the environment. He told me the Vatican is fully behind the rhythm method Quot Kennedy said. Quot i asked him if with All the drunkenness around Here he really thinks men care what Day of the month it is when they come Home at  Kennedy counts Elizabeth David and . Fisher As influences on her cooking. She also notes the Quot big  Quot James Beard was enormously important. Julia child showed America it could Cook French food. Craig Claiborne changed food journalism for the better. Until he came along newspaper food sections were pretty much full of Cherry pie  Kennedy said. Quot those three opened the door for people like me. I think Paula Wolfert is wonderful and Jacques Pepin is in a class All his own he a such a skilled  regarding some of the new Cooks on the scene Kennedy of course has More opinions. Southwestern cuisine is not at the top of her list. Quot i had Brunch in Dallas at one of those new  Kennedy said. Quot the food was hot and looked wonderful. But there were entirely too Many ingredients and no depth of flavor. One of the items on the menu was Black Beans Al Dente. Can you imagine such a thing Quot americans present focus on nutrition also meets with derision. Quot make the food properly and eat less of it Quot Kennedy said. Quot americans think mexican food is bad for them because they re used to these awful combination plates served in the states. Mexicans would never eat continued on Page 14 Friday Junel 1990 the stars and stripes a a a Page 13