European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 1, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Tex mex continued from Page 13 four starches on one plate. Yes mexicans Cook with lard but they eat a lot of fruit and Corn. The mexican diet in its entirety is  devoted to Mexico a country she says has Given her Quot everything Quot a a career my work Quot Kennedy remains very much an englishwoman in Many ways. She has Tea daily at 4 . She listens to the bbl on her Short wave radio and sets her clocks to bbl time. She wears a 30-strength sunblock. A full life has left Kennedy with few regrets. I done to really care what people say about me Quot Kennedy said. Quot i figure a very Small percentage loves you a larger percentage likes you an even larger percentage is indifferent and a Small percentage hates you. As Long As my work is respected that s what  the afternoon Sun is settling on Kennedy s Terrace. The bougainvillea Are vibrant and the Sun is glinting off the Adobe baking ovens. Kennedy has taught a class for four hours and is ready to drive herself off to Mexico City in her Dat Sun pick up to catch a flight for new York City and a meeting with her publisher. Pulling on a Straw hat to protect herself from the Sun she asks if she looks All right for photographs. Told that she looks charmingly eccentric her Blue eyes Flash she plants her feet and says  to voila Dundy is Lood editor of the tort Worth Star Telegram in Texas doing it a Quot never use lit tic cubes or canned stuff when making soup. A Good Stock is the basis of a Good soup. Good Stock should set to a  a Quot Only use White onions for cooking mexican food. Use purple onions for Garnish. Never use the yellow a Spanish  a Quot buy a scale. Flour for instance will never measure out the same Way  a Quot done to overdo the garlic and onion in mexican cooking. You re not in the South of  a Quot mexicans Aren t great on salads. Instead they eat the garnishes As salad. A Quot steaming vegetables is silly. You lose nutrients that you d keep if you blanched them. Vegetables need to release their sugar to get the Best  _ a Quot a blender with any More than four speeds is unnecessary. Those things with seven and 10 buttons must have been invented by a Man. A blender is far better for mexican food than a food processor. It gives a better  a Quot never Grill Chiles by piercing them with a Fork and holding Over a flame. That releases too Many juices. Instead place under a broiler or on a Comal a grilling Sheet Over a  a Quot lard is better than Margarine that has All sorts of strange oils in  a Quot place coins in the water of a Steamer. That Way you can hear if the water has boiled Down too  a Quot paper towels Are ridiculous. Use a grocery bag to soak up excess  a Diana Kennedy Page 14 a a a the stars and stripes outdoor mexican by All this and homemade guacamole too not to mention spicy mexican Rice and marinated beef Steak. By Sherrie Clinton Baltimore evening Sun Ith the warm summer Days ahead Why not enjoy an outdoor Mexico Buffet our menu includes homemade guacamole with Tortilla chips or fresh vegetables a marinated beef Steak and spicy mexican Rice. The Rice can be made ahead of time and reheated. The Steak can be marinated the night before or the morning of the dinner. Here Are approximate grilling times for three kinds of Steak Boneless Chuck shoulder Steak Boneless sirloin Steak and top round Steak. The approximate times Are for Steak cooked rare to medium using an open Grill and medium heat. A Boneless Chuck shoulder Steak % to 1-Inch thick will take about 14 to 20 minutes. Boneless sirloin Steak Inch thick will take 12 to 16 minutes. That same Type of Steak 1-Inch thick will take 16 to 20 minutes. Top round Steak a to 1-Inch thick will take 22 to 26 minutes. To determine medium heat wait until the coals Are Ash covered. They should be spread in a single layer. To Check the temperature cautiously hold the Palm of your hand four inches above the coals. Count the number of seconds you can hold your hand in that position before the heat forces you to pull it away four seconds is medium heat five seconds is Low heat. For a tender Steak turn just once. Remember that steaks cooked in a covered Grill will Cook faster. Also actual grilling times will depend on individual preference. Fiesta Beefsteak 1 Boneless beef sirloin top round or Chuck shoulder Steak 1/a cup prepared Salsa mild medium or hot 2 Tablespoons fresh Lime juice 1 Clove garlic minced 1 Teaspoon dried oregano leaves i Teaspoon ground cumin Combine All ingredients except beef. Place beef in plastic bag and add marinade. Tie securely and marinate in refrigerator six to eight hours or overnight if desired. Turn at least once. Remove Steak from marinade. Reserve marinade. Place Steak on Grid Over coals turning once. Follow instructions above for approximate grilling time. Brush occasionally with reserved marinade. Carve Steak into thin slices. One Pound of Boneless beef Steak will yield about four 3-ounce cooked trimmed Servings. Ensa ladas 3 cloves garlic minced to a paste 1 Teaspoon Salt i Teaspoon ground Black Pepper divided 1v2 Pound Well trimmed beef sirloin Steak Cut 1-Inch thick 3 cups cooked Rice cooled to room temperature 1 Ripe medium California Avocado seeded peeled and diced % cup Cherry Tomato quarters v3 cup sliced Ripe olives a cup sliced Green onions including tops 3 Tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 Tablespoon plus 1 Teaspoon Olive Oil 1 Tablespoon fresh Lime juice lettuce leaves Combine garlic Salt and one Quarter Teaspoon Pepper spread Over both sides of Steak. Place Steak on Grid Over coals turning once follow instructions above for approximate grilling time. Let stand five minutes. Carve Steak into thin slices Cut into bite size pieces. Combine Steak Rice Avocado tomatoes olives and onions in a Large bowl. Whisk together vinegar Olive Oil Lime juice and remaining one Quarter Teaspoon Pepper and add to Rice mixture and toss. Serve salad on lettuce lined Platter. Makes six Servings. Mexican Rice 1 Tablespoon vegetable Oil 1 cup uncooked Rice v2 cup chopped onions 1 Clove garlic minced beef Broth 1 Teaspoon ground cumin 1 Tablespoon Tomato paste i cup Frozen Green peas defrosted i cup finely diced tomatoes you will need about 1 % to 2 cups Broth for regular milled Long Grain Rice iv2 cups Broth for regular milled medium or Short Grain Rice or 2 to 2�?T/2 cups Broth for parboiled or Brown Rice. Cook Rice in hot Oil in two to three quart Saucepan Over medium heat stirring constantly about two minutes. Stir in onions and garlic Cook stirring about one minute. Add Broth and cumin heat to boiling stir once or twice. Lower heat to simmer cover with tight fitting lid. Cook according to time specified or until Rice is tender and liquid is absorbed. Combine Tomato paste and one Tablespoon water. Stir Tomato mixture peas and tomatoes into Rice fluff with Fork. Makes four Servings. Note Cook regular milled Long medium or Short Gram Rice for 15 minutes parboiled Rice for 20 to 25 minutes or Brown Rice for 45 to 50 minutes guacamole 3 Ripe avocados seeded peeled and mashed 2 cups 8 ounces finely shredded Monterey Jack cheese 1 medium Tomato finely diced is cup finely diced onion 1 can 4 ounces diced Green chilis 1 to 2 cloves garlic minced 2 Tablespoons fresh Lime juice Cilantro or Parsley leaves for Garnish Combine All ingredients except Cilantro or Parsley in medium bowl mix until blended Garnish with Cilantro or Parsley. Serve with fresh vegetable Sticks such As carrots or with Tortilla chips. Makes about 51/2 cups guacamole heart smart recipes by Marian Burros new York times Carlotta Flores would rather have a Corn Tortilla than a flour Tortilla any Day. A self proclaimed health nut in the land of lard and melted cheese Arizona restaurateur Flores has managed to provide an oxymoron Low fat Low cholesterol mexican food. So has Joyce steins owner of cafe iguana in Manhattan whose restaurant is known As much for its fiesta atmosphere and loud music As it is for its food. Both women have proven that mexican food can be Good for everyone. The menu at Al Charro in Tucson the restaurant that Flores owns with her husband Ray has a Long list of Quot heart smart Quot foods and they include dishes usually associated with grease and cholesterol a Chili con Carne enchiladas and Burros known As burritos outside Arizona. They join a number of other mexican dishes that Are not As Well known whose fat Content is not High like Albond Gas a Meatball soup Green Chili beef Chicken and Chili baked fish with Beans and tortillas and grilled Chicken with Squash Beans and Rice. Not every mexican dish can be turned into something nutritionally upstanding a there Are for example no retried Beans or guacamole on Flores menu. But there is enough to keep fat watchers Happy. The health conscious menu was introduced at Al Charro two years ago when some friends of the Florese said they were no longer Able to eat at the restaurant because they had begun to watch their fat intake on doctors orders. Quot i be always been very conscious of certain foods and in be always been looking for ways to do things right Quot Flores said. Quot it s part Experiment and part  in Tucson the food of Sonora the mexican state to the South of Arizona is most popular. It features lots of beef flour rather than Corn tortillas and of course its Chim Changas the deep Fried flour tortillas stuffed and topped with plenty of sour Cream guacamole and cheese. Even among those who Are not under doctors orders to Cut out saturated fat and cholesterol there is still the sense that cutting Down  be such a bad idea. So 90 percent of the fat used at Al Charro is canola Oil rather than lard. And Corn tortillas with their higher nutritional Content than flour Are preferred. The retried Beans just  be the same without the lard Flores said. It s quite a departure for Tucson s culinary landmark a restaurant that has been owned by the same family since 1922. Flores is the grand Niece of the original owner Monica flin. The restaurant is in what Washie flin family Home built by Jules Flint Flores was determine Echo prove to a sceptical visitor a few Weiks ago that her healthful Sonoran food As its traditional counter it she had the Kitchen m be up both versions of each dish at Arrito with Chili and Chicken in place of a ii Michang with Beans and cheese i enchilada with Low fat cheese in place 0 one filled and topped with full fat yellow cheese Salsa verde rather than Gracar Ole and a bowl of whole Beans As a submit Ute for retried Beans. A Basic ingredient for called Salsa de Chili Colo made with mild dried re it new mexican Chili or an sometimes known As a do the Job. If you want something try a dried Padilla which name of Ancho or dried at cafe iguana the n Inu does not single out the Low fat Lov customers will find vege Cevich Jacama and wat it Tex mex Chicken fajitas polio a charbroiled Brea s As appealing rese dishes is ado a sauce d chilis. A dried Anaheim c Alifornia Chili will Lotter you might night go by the Blano. A sodium foods Arian Chili Cress salad Jec Hugas de of Chicken swordfish As Well As Burr tos enchiladas and Tostada with beget ble fillings a hold the cheese. Cafe iguanas flour to Lias Are made with vegetable shorten chips Are Fried in Corn of As is the Salsa. Quot there Are a lot of sneakers Quot steins said fitness conscious. Thei their diets. Swordfish is dish in the restaurant a Chicken  diets notwithstanding a not lard Corn and Are Salt free be in Here with and they Are All care about a most popular 9 with the there is one item on her 1 menu that Friday Juie 1,1990 steins says patrons Don t seem to be Able to do without Corn chips. Most people Quot devour Basket after  rolled enchilada with Chicken adapted from Al Charro preparation 25 minutes cooking time 20 minutes 4 Large whole Chicken breasts skinned boned 11/2 cups hot Chicken Broth 6 ounces part skim milk Mozzarella cheese shredded 6 ounces part skim Ricotta 12 Corn tortillas 11/2 cups Salsa de Chili Colorado 1 cup chopped Green onion. Cook Chicken breasts in water to cover simmering until breasts Are done 10 to 15 minutes. Drain Cool and shred meat Divide into 12 equal portions. Heat Chicken Broth to boiling. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Meanwhile mix Mozzarella with Ricotta. Dip each Tortilla in hot Chicken Broth. Drain and spread one Side with one Tablespoon of Salsa. Arrange Chicken in strip in Middle of Tortilla and Roll. Place seam Side Down in baking dish. Repeat with each Tortilla and spoon Salsa Over top of enchiladas covering Well. Sprinkle cheese mixture Over top of enchiladas and bake for about 10 minutes until bubbly. Serve with chopped Green onion. Yield 12 enchiladas. Momma iguanas fresh vegetable Chili adapted from cafe iguana preparation 30 minutes cooking time 30 minutes 2 cups diced onions 2 cups diced celery 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil 3 cups potatoes Cut in 1/2-Inch cubes 11/2 cups carrots Cut in 1/4-Inch cubes 2 cups Zucchini Cut in 1-Inch cubes 1 cup red Pepper cored seeded and Cut in 1-Inch cubes 2 cups cooked Pinto or kidney Beans 1 cup Corn kernels 1 Tablespoon minced garlic 4 cups crushed fresh or canned drained tomatoes 1 cup Tomato sauce 2 Tablespoons ground cumin i cup very mild pure Chili powder v2 cup water saute onions and celery in hot Oil until soft. Add remaining ingredients cover and simmer until vegetables Are tender about 30 minutes. Yield 6 to 8 Servings. Note if mexican Chili powder is unavailable substitute 3 Tablespoons Sweet hungarian paprika plus with 1 Tablespoon hot hungarian paprika. Salsa de Chili verde adapted from Al Charro preparation 10 minutes 2 cloves garlic mashed 6 Ripe tomatoes chopped 6 mild Green chillies chopped 1 medium White onion chopped Salt to taste optional freshly ground Pepper to taste 4 Teaspoons White vinegar 4 Teaspoons canola Oil Bunch Cilantro chopped. Combine ingredients and serve. Without the tomatoes the Salsa can be refrigerated for several hours. Add the tomatoes just before serving. Yield 2 cups. Not every homemade mexican dish can be turned into something nutritionally upstanding but enchiladas definitely can. The stars and stripes a a a Page 15