European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 29, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Not Only did Thomas Jefferson have culinary taste but he also invented tools for the Monticello Kitchen. Not by Rosemary Knower Baltimore Sun George Washington May have been first in War and first in peace but Thomas Jefferson was first in the Kitchen. It is to Jefferson a love of French food acquired when he was the Young republics envoy to Paris that americans owe Many of the Early experiments in cuisine that contributed to forming the country s taste today. True it s Washington we think of on the fourth a that monumentally disapproving face from the Gilbert Stuart portrait comes to mind immediately. But did you know that Washington celebrated the end of the revolutionary War at Fraunces tavern with a wild dinner for his general staff and the regimental commanders the Bill reads in part 6v2 dozen bottles Madeira 21/2 dozen bottles port 66 orders of Sangaree 12 orders of Madeira and bitters 8 broken lights 16 broken win glasses 6 broken decanters Jefferson would have frowned on any unman Nerly gathering that insisted on cracked crockery As a Means of commemorating the nations birthday. A Patriot to his Core he truly believed in the brotherhood of Man and the perfectibility of the human spirit. And he thought that that spirit improved considerably when partaking of the Bounty of the Beautiful Earth dressed As the French dressed it lightly and superbly with herbs Lemon vinegar butter and an occasional Soupcon of Cream. When Washington recalled him from Paris to be Secretary of state in 1789, Jefferson came Home with French cookbooks a Waffle Iron an ice Cream Freezer Vanilla Beans carefully packed shoots of French wine grapes and lots of exotic vegetable seeds. He saw no reason Why the gloriously Fertile soil of America should not bring Forth the same Superb variety of edibles As that of France. He pleaded before Congress for a reduction on wine import duties arguing that Quot As a moralist Quot he considered the High Price of wine Only resulted in the drinking of whiskey which he considered Quot a Poison. Washington trusted Jefferson to Lay Down the first presidential cellar. Jefferson took the responsibility tasteful patriotism seriously and left a detailed letter at the end of his term As Secretary of state As to which wines should be kept on hand in the White House for state occasions. When Jefferson succeeded to the presidency he hired a chef from France not without difficulty at least one potential candidate quit on seeing the woefully inadequate White House Kitchen. Another Frenchman named Lemaire agreed to come to the White House As maitre do hotel. Jefferson a Day As president began with a conference with Lemaire each morning. He usually entertained at least 14 carefully chosen guests each afternoon at 4 supper time was earlier then. A the chose his guests Quot says Betty Wason in her witty history of cookery Cooks gluttons and gourmets Quot for their stimulating and wordly conversation wrote out the invitations himself and then set off with Lemaire to the Georgetown Market where Jefferson selected the provisions choosing vegetables that were Crisp and fresh Well larded properly aged meat and Beautiful specimens of fruit. Sometimes he spent As much As $50 a Day on provisions a fabulous sum in those Days. Jefferson frequently sent messages via diplomatic Pouch to his contacts in France requesting the Purchase of Parmesan cheese Dijon Mustard almonds tarragon vinegar boned anchovies and Vanilla Beans. He sent one of his former secretaries trundling Down the App Ian Way to learn the secrets of Quot Maccarrone Quot which he served at a formal dinner bubbling with cheese and butter. He was probably the first to serve Quot French Fries Quot with Beefsteak the first to use Vanilla As a Flavouring and to grow such rare crops As asparagus from imported seed. He tried to import Olive Trees but the Virginia climate proved too moist for them. America would have to wait for improved shipping to provide Oil As opposed to butter lard and Bear fat. Perhaps that s Why Early american vegetables were More often served cooked and creamed than raw and dressed. From records left at Monticello we know Jefferson grew artichokes asparagus eggplant endive salad greens and Savoy cabbage As Well As the More mundane vegetables he was fond of fruit and grew numerous varieties of plums berries peaches and apples. And for seasoning he grew and used every culinary Herb we have rediscovered As alternatives to Salt and fat today. The Thomas Jefferson Cookbook published in 1976 from the recipes he used to train his daughters and grandchildren to Cook is a fascinating document. On one hand it reminds us How easy it is to Cook Well today. Jefferson a recipe for wine Jelly that old Southern favorite begins with selecting and boiling four calves feet for Gelatin. All we do is open an envelope. But in other ways the Cookbook with its emphasis on fresh vegetables Herb seasonings and Low fat is almost eerily modern. Even though Monticello was Inland he sent Crews to the Bay to Harvest Chesapeake crabs oysters Shad and Rockfish. He kept them alive in special Ponds before they wound up in a delicate sauce at the table. His advocacy of a diet Low in animal fat and High in vegetables anticipates the fitness pundits arguments about cholesterol and roughage by two centuries. Jefferson died at 83 at Monticello surrounded by his family a Little before 1 . On the fourth of july 1826. To Honor that Bright and Lively culinary spirit you could do worse than to celebrate your own fourth this year with the likes of chilled crab resting on a nest of Artichoke hearts and spinach Linguine a Platter of Crisp greens and vegetables with Herb dressing and the luxurious finale of luscious Vanilla ice Cream topped with raspberries and  crab 1 Pound Lump crab 8 leaves fresh Basil finely chopped 1 Tablespoon Capers 1 Tablespoon Dijon Mustard Salt and Pepper to taste 2 cups Rich White sauce 114-ounce can of Artichoke quarters drained 3 cups cooked spinach Linguine stir the Basil Capers Mustard Salt and Pepper into the White sauce. Toss the crab meat with 1 cup of sauce and chill it until you Are ready to serve. Cook the Linguine in boiling salted water until just barely tender. Toss it with the remaining White sauce and arrange it in a nest in Flat soup plates. Place a bed of Artichoke hearts around the Center of the nest and spoon the crab mixture into the Center. Chill until served. Serves  White sauce 3 Tablespoons butter 3 Tablespoons pre sifted flour i cup Chicken Broth i cup whipping Cream 1 cup milk melt the butter Over Low heat in a heavy Saucepan. Done to let it Bubble or get too hot or the sauce will taste scorched. Sift in the flour and stir and Cook the butter flour mixture with a whisk for about 5 minutes or until the paste is smooth and forms tiny bubbles at the edges. Combine the liquids and add them gradually a tablespoonful at a time stirring after each addition. At first the sauce will be quite thick but eventually it will thin to the consistency of custard. 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