European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 23, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse Tourists ride a Camel during a berber Celebration near Marrakesh. T r Al Smail big rep can a oct one of be narrow streets of the Medina in Fez simply by turning sideways. Snake charmers like this one in Jemaa Elfna Square try to Diane their Pels Over the shoulders of Page Sers by. Continued from Page 11 second Day in Marrakesh she would return to the Square i took the kids to the hotel Pool the next Day while Sofia and a Spanish couple she had befriended hired an authorized guide. He charged them $30 for a tour of shops and sights in and around the Square. He also took them for a Camel ride and to his Home for Tea. My wife had had a Good time. I was sure of that because i spent most of my lunch in the hotel lobby making out traveler s checks. Marrakesh merchants deliver. She spent the first evening in Marrakesh at a nightclub being entertained by acrobats Snake charmers and belly dancers. The second night i attended a berber Celebration. These were the two events featured in an optional $70, two night package our tour company offered in Marrakesh. It was the Only place where they could offer such evening entertainment our guide explained because in the Arab sections of the country cultural taboos prohibit such activity. Berbers Are More Liberal he said. They Are also the mystery people of Morocco who settled the country during prehistoric times while integrating w Ith the rest of Morr can culture the berbers have maintained their own language and customs some of which we would observe at the Celebration our guide assured us. Horsemen dressed in flowing Robes and armed with Flintlock rifles greeted our bus As it approached the Celebration site about 20 Miles outside of Marrakesh. The site was surrounded by a Brick Wall and contained artificial waterfalls and Concrete walks built around a Corral. Several brightly decorated tents big enough to hold More than 100 people were pitched along one Side of the Cor ral. We passed groups of women singing Anil men beating Drums and other percussion crowds pack the Jemaa Elfna Square it known As the gathering place of the extinct in the exotic City of Marrakesh. Instruments As we walked to our tent. Waiters served us couscous a steamed Grain resembling Small kernels of Rice topped with stewed vegetables and meat and a variety of other dishes. As we ate we enjoyed performances by groups of musicians singers and dancers who moved from tent to tent. But we did t see a belly dancer until after dinner when she kicked off the main entertainment phase of the Celebration. In the Corral horsemen demonstrated their prowess by performing such stunts As standing on the Back of a trotting horse. The next Day was far less festive we spent it on the bus Riding to Fez. We were detoured by a blood and did t arrive at our hotel until 9 . We spent the next morning exploring Morocco s first Imperial City. More than 25,000 streets Snake through and it seemed sometimes under the Medina the City s oldest Section which dates to the eighth Century. The Medina has t changed much since then our guide told us. Quot narrow is insufficient to describe Many of the footpaths we explored that morning. Once a Small Burro turned sideways and stopped traffic. But through thick and thin a group of Street vendors followed us pressuring us to buy everything from trinkets to Tea services to blankets. A boy about 12 years old Quot adopted Quot me. He chased other Young merchants away f be tried to sell me some Small mirrors and was ready to bargain in any currency t might have in my pockets. After Vve closed our Deal he moved in on imme Spanish members of our group switching languages and currencies without missing a beat. In All the cities we visited we met Street men Hants who spoke several languages and could Cak uate prices in several currencies in their Heads but in Fez Many of them had t even reached their teem. Sofia discovered that the closer our group one to a Fez merchant draws traditional berber tribal markings on the face of a customer. Our bus at the other Side of the Medina the lower the prices dropped on the merchandise that the vendors were hawking. Accordingly she made her final Purchase after our bus started moving and i had to be for the Driver to Stop a Sofia climbed aboard carrying two colourful blankets. A Quick Cost comparison revealed that my wife had set the bus s bargaining record 90 dirham about $11.25, for the two blankets. Besides shopping bargains touring ancient Fez gave us a glimpse of moroccan history. We watched As thousands of Fez residents entered the a Arlouine mosque. The wide entrances allowed us to examine the ornate doorways and afforded a Good View of the vast courtyards within. Our guide explained the mosque had once been a University. Since its founding he said Fez has been a Center for islamic learning. By the time we reached our bus my feet ached so much that i thought i must have walked up or Down ail 25,000 streets in the Medina. Early the next morning we headed Back to Ceuta the port where we had arrived a week earlier for the ferry Back to Spain. The five extra bundles in our Luggage and the silly Grin on her face proved that Sofia got she wanted from our moroccan adventure. As for me our moroccan tour was lacking in one respect. Don t misunderstand i la always remember our visit to Northern Africa As one of the highlights of our time in Europe. But i guess i was hoping that i d feel a Little of bogey s spirit. I knew it was impossible but still of All the Gin joints in All the world i would have Lover to walk into Rick s. Berber women in traditional costumes sing during a Celebration staged for of Emfs near Marrakesh. 12 stripes Magazine August 23, 1990 we win r i m August 23, 1990 stripes Magazine j
