European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - December 7, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Beverly Bundy m Jet joined and dined by chefs Stephan Pyles v Jim Dean fearing and Michel Platz Julia child vow we had one thing on her mind. Nothing would do w w but that the French chef had to have some Texas Barbecue. In Dallas for three Days to raise Money and membership for the american Institute of wine amp food which she helped found in 1981, child was honoured like the grands Dame of cuisine that she is. Pyles cooked at a $250-a-plate dinner and fearing s dinner Cost $125. But no snob she. It was fabled Sonny Bryan s she chose As the site of a lunch time interview. Once on the Smoky premises she asked the counter woman what she could Tell her about the Ham. Quot Well its real  Good enough for child. She ordered a Beer and folded herself in one of the school desks that function As tables at Bryan a. Even seated with her trademark voice muted other diners approached Joo Fia for autographs. A customer in. Tired jeans passed on a business card on which he had recommended Quot smitty a in Brownwood Quot for the very Best Barbecue. Child filed the card in her purse. Her icy Beer went Down fast in the hot surroundings As she launched into her disgust with today s food scares Quot these Neo prohibitionists Are silly. Man has been drinking wine since time immemorial. Jesus Christ drank wind. Wine is part of the food Chain and should be treated As such. These people Are nutty. Quot cholesterol has become another trendy word just like alzheimer so a the 78-year-old child said Over a a combination plate and a Side order of onion rings. Quot it s. Only Ope of Many things that cause ill health two of the worst things Are not choosing your grandparents properly and smoking and High blood pressure. And much farther Down the list Are cholesterol and overweight and Lack of  a a. She also takes sodium scares with a Grain of Salt Quot the people who need to watch their sodium Are the ones who eat top much processed food Quot child said. Quot if you Cook yourself you know How much Salt you re adding Quot i was Reading an article in my dentists office about a study of chimpanzees and cholesterol. It said v a a a chimpanzees with Low cholesterol Levels . And mean. So there you  a much of child a Success in food can be attributed to that sense of humor and her awareness of real life concerns with time and entertaining r. Demonstrating her method of puff pastry to a class of 60 students while in Dallas she combines 6vfe Sticks of butter with 4 cups of flour. Quot its Good to make your own puff pastry Quot she said Quot it s much better than that Frozen stuff in the supermarket. I a think they use the other spread in that product the name of the other spread has never passed my i is. Quot but you know you can make this puff pastry and throw it in your Freezer for two years. You pull it out when you re ready to use it and people think you re terribly  her humor also comes out in her appearances on. Late night with David Letterman. While Letterman runs Over other cooking guests like Wolfgang puck Paul Prudhomme and Justin Wilson child always seems to a manage to finish her demonstration and enjoy herself. Quot David a such fun Quot child said. Quot he a just a big kid in t he Quot a a ,. A a a television has been Good to child and it s work she still enjoys with frequent appearances on Good morning America. Its a continuation of a relationship that  1962 with her cooking shows for Bostons Public to station. / Quot i was paid $50 a show Quot child said Quot but i would have done them for  her first Book had been published in 1961 the first volume of mastering the Artof French cooking co. Authored with Simone Beck but it was her Down to Earth approach to frightening French techniques on to that endeared her to audiences. As with any Cook and teacher child has her likes and. Dislikes but she a not rigid in her approach to food. Quot garlic powder is a no no. It s dreadful stuff Quot child said. She s fond of Mcdonald s French Fries Mon sodium glutamate gets a thumbs Down and Saran wrap gets a thumbs up Quot some other plastic wraps Are cheaper but. This is a Case where you get what you pay for Quot whether she likes it or not child has never endorsed a product a once you endorse something you re a v prisoner of it. And what if the product changes and your name is still on it / a a a a. Quot some people who Are imbued with the garlic mystique say that the garlic press is a terrible Gadget but i be never noticed that it changes the  in the classics at cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris child has not been afraid to adapt those traditions to modern times. A when i first earned to make puff pastry in Paris in 1948, we used this Lovely soft French flour. But in the states t had problems with the american All purpose flour making the dough Brittle. Then i was at the White House doing a television show and their pastry chef this old Frenchman was making these Lovely tall vols a i ent. He was adding cake flour to the american flour to get the height and that s what in be been doing Ever  she sees food changing and health hysterics aside if does no to bother her. Quot it s inevitable that things will change. In France people Are shopping in supermarkets now like americans. We have diminishing Apple varieties today but now there Are Apple museums to preserve these things a a another change is that professional kitchens once a male Domain Are today often manned by women. And while Many of those women were influenced by child s to appearances during their childhood child does t see herself As a feminist. She in fact often signs her business letters Quot mrs. Paul . A Quot i always just went out and did the work Quot child said Quot and never had any problems. Maybe its because i m so big. Child is Over 6 feet tall but then again i never worked in a restaurant  a a California native child did no to discover the Joys of the table until she moved to Paris with her husband in the late 1940s, she had met Paul in Ceylon where she was working in the office of strategic services during world War ii. She credits Paul a foreign service officer 10 years her senior with introducing her to the pleasures of gastronomy. It Paul is now in a nursing Home in Cambridge mass., where the couple has a permanent residence. Their other Home in Santa Barbara calif., is where child intends to eventually live. The two have no children. Child s books have made her wealthy. Conservative estimates on her most recent Book the Way to Cook Aiono put her royalties at More than a a $1 million for a Cookbook that retails for $50. But she finds writing and testing recipes for books confining Quot Quot there you Are staring at the computer and you Arentt having fun with people Quot child said. She d like to go on to do More demonstrations work with planned parenthood and raise Rhoney for Smith College where she went to school. A. A a. A a with her culinary career haying run the full menu except running a restaurant a Quot unless you had your husband or your wife in it. It would be very difficult t her Only regret is that she did t Start her gastronomy adventures earlier. _ _ 1v"i Haven t done nearly As much fancy pastry As i d like to Quot child said. Quot that a the wonderful thing about this profession it s so creative that there a always More to a  a Revedy Bundy a former stripes Magazine editor. Is food editor at the Forf Worth Texes Ster  Friday december 7, 1990 _ the stars and stripes a a a Page 13