European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - January 10, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                La Bella wandering through the eternal City Story and photos by Leah Larkin features editor just one Coin in the Mountain is said to ensure one s return to Rome. But the Fountain was barricaded with fences and covered with tarpaulins. There was no Pool nowhere to throw anything. The renovation at the Trevi Fountain was a fortunately. The Only disappointment during our four Day visit to Rome in november. We walked until our feet could go no farther Back and Forth across town following Busy streets and not so Busy alleys and passageways. In Rome it s always an adventure to meander through the streets with Beautiful churches monumental statues massive fountains and treasured ruins waiting for discovery around every Corner. Not to mention the glorious piazzas scenes of architectural splendor throbbing with the vigorous pulse of this wonderfully chaotic exciting City. Rome can also be confusing. With streets that curve and Circle and change names frequently it s easy to get off course. It our first Stop was the Vatican a by subway. Our hotel was on the other Side of town but conveniently located on subway line a. Rome has just two lines of underground trains a and b. Unlike the subways in Paris and London they Don t take you everywhere. In fact they Don t seem to go to Many of the places you re Likely to want to visit. We ended up using the underground Only a few times in most a cases walking was More practical. After exiting the subway a few blocks from the Vatican museums and Michelangelo s sistine Chapel we began to feel As if we were in a procession following groups of tourists All headed in the same direction. A to see the Chapel you must buy a ticket 8,000 lire or about $7 for admission to the Vatican museums Complex. There Are color. Coded signs directing visitors through the museum Maze to the Chapel one color follows direct route others Detour through different parts of the museum. In any Case you must walk through corridor after corridor room after room before reaching the Chapel. The paintings and treasures along the Way Are certainly Worth seeing but sometimes it s difficult due to . A a a a a a a a to escape All the people we chose one of the less travelled routes which took us through the Borgia apartments where some far out contemporary religious Art is displayed. It s a Welcome change after All the heavy Fleshy scenes of the Renaissance. The Chapel itself was crowded. All eyes were on Michelangelo s ceiling and his seven. Powerful scenes illustrating the creation of the world. It s something one must see. How one Man could have created this extraordinary masterpiece in just four years is beyond comprehension. On the Wall above the altar Michelangelo painted Quot the last judgment Quot another monumental work that evokes the terror of the event with scenes of prophets and saints Roma t a a. A carrying instruments of torture and the damned being hurled into hell. St Peter s Basilica is another of Rome s wonders. Its immensity overwhelms the mind. To get a feel for just How huge the Structure is climb the 360 Steps to the top of the 435-foot-High Dame another Michelangelo chef d oeuvre. It s a Long trek that requires stamina and determination. Toward the top the staircase becomes narrower and the Walls curve inward creating a strange if not frightening sensation. On our Way up we met  one out of breath sightseer who had turned Back. This is an experience Claustrophobic should avoid. At the top walk around the gallery inside the dome for dramatic views of the Church below. Investigate the outdoor Section of roof just behind the enormous statues that line the Balustrade of the Basilica s facade. There Are wonderful views of the sprawling City and super photo opportunities of St. Peter s Square. After All that exercise we needed something More than just a cappuccino. Most of the restaurants near the Vatican Are geared to tourists with menus in several languages posted outside. Since both my husband and i have taken italian cooking lessons he even mastered pasta from scratch Vve avoided these places in Pursuit of genuine roman cuisine. We found a restaurant where the diners were natives in this Case mostly Mistiri gushed looking businessmen. The menu was Only in  waiter spoke Only italian. We had an All italian lunch an Antipasto course followed by pasta. This genuine italian experience set us Back almost $50. We probably could have saved if we d mingled with the tourists after lunch we headed across the tiber River to the Piazza Del Popolo Square of the people which is actually a Circle with an ancient egyptian obelisk standing in the Middle. Twin baroque churches Santa Maria Dei Mir Coli and Santa Maria in Montesanto sit Side by Side at a one Edge of the Piazza. Thep Incio gardens Are above on another Side of this Busy Hub. Instead of wandering through the gardens to the Villa Borghese with its excellent Art museum we followed the via Del Corso to the via Condotti. Both streets Are havens for shoppers the latter for those with plenty of Money. Names like Ferragamo Gucci Hermes and Valentino identify establishments on this thoroughfare of haute couture. It s Worth a stroll just to Check out the windows. The Street ends at the Piazza Dispagna where the Spanish Steps climb to the Trinity Dei Monti Church. The Steps Are a popular hangout for artists with easels guitar playing students weary tourists and serious people watchers. By the time we made it up the Steps Rome was coming alive with lights. The Sun had left its Mark Asky whose soft shades of Pink matched the color of the Church and added a glow of Romance to the views. We d had More than enough walking so we chose a restaurant dose to our hotel for dinner. Just around the Corner was the Trattoria Del Fattore a Homey family run eatery where the staff seemed to know most of the customers. There were no printed menus in any language. The waiter recited the selections Only two of the Day. We chose Gnocchi. It was Good but better than the food was the atmosphere. We could look Back in the Kitchen and watch a Young woman Wash lettuce a Man probably her father , and an elderly Man probably the Grandfather shuffle Back and Forth carrying the plates to the customers. Two nights later we continued on Page 12 magnificent buildings and statues wait to be discovered around nearly every Corner in Rome. Below the Castel Sant Angelo it a mausoleum a built in a. D. 135. Above the City s glorious piazzas Bustle with activity at outdoor fruit and vegetable markets. January 10, 7997 stripes Magazine 11