European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - February 14, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Bargains and bangles at traditional saudi Market a saudi shopkeeper applies needlework by hand to the clothes he  by Deedee Arrington Doke Kaiserslautern Bureau our guide promised to take us to a souk a traditional Arab Market. But As our Van hurtled Down the multilane Highway somewhere in Eastern saudi Arabia he cajoled us to visit instead the Camel Market. A fishing Village. A Western style mall. Any place but a souk. It Quot Why do you want to go to a souk that is like what you Call a mall Quot our saudi arabian guide said impatiently. In their race to Advance the National lifestyle into the 21st Century saudi yuppies prefer to ignore colourful remnants of their past that have been replaced with Western convenience and Glitz. They Don t understand westerners curiosity with the Warre like markets of old when one can cruise a downtown mall or hit the local Neon lit Safeway for a shopping spree. Many old time souks have burned Down or been levelled to make room for new development. But the visitor willing to stray from the superhighways and main drags of the new saudi Arabia still can find souks tucked away in aging quarters of town where Middle class arabs shop As their elders did. . Troops visiting saudi Arabia for the first time often stumble onto them by Accident As they come to provincial towns for Field supplies. The smart ones make mental notes to return knowing they la find better deals than in the cd crowded suburbs where prices have increased dramatically longtime residents say since operation desert shield began. Dam mama a Gold souk is where Many begin their personal shopping Large ornate Gold necklaces to be worn by brides drape like scarves in shop windows. Trays of Gold rings delicate yet dramatic fill showcases inside. Cold coins known As saudi Gold Are sold by weight As is All Gold in saudi shops. ,. A Quot we heard about the Gold souks since the Day we got Here. Everything costs about a third to one half what it would in the states. You Don t pay much Ohan thing for workmanship Quot said Michael Simms a Fluor Danie Arabia employee. Simms of Houston Texas scouts the dam Mam Gold souk for Quot jewelry  and friends and Gold coins for . One . Soldier from Pennsylvania confided that he found a Gold merchant in dam Mam who accepts personal checks from americans because Quot he s got a brother in Houston,&Quot.the Soldier said. ,. As in the Gold souks shops that handle specific goods such As fabrics and spices Cluster together in Arabia s traditional markets. Down one corridor Are the tailor shops where Arab clothing such As fan Vahs or fur lined ceremonial outerwear and fancy Bayas or Black cloaks worn by saudi women Are crafted to individual tastes. Down the next May be the grocers who Stock Dusky smelling spices and plump Golden raisins next to detergent and Rice. Near the souks there s almost always an old Man Selling packets of Short Sticks. Our guide bought a pack and passed out the Sticks explaining that chewing them cleans one s Teeth. A a a a another wrinkle in the arabian shopping tradition is the women s souk. Most shopkeepers in the women s souks Are men often Indian or pakistani merchants but male shoppers generally Are not permitted to enter this female enclave where clothing fabrics and underwear comprise much of the Stock. Saudi religious police the Mattawa vigorously patrol stores for women Quot to ensure that they Are in the business of clothes and not sex Quot according to author Sandra Mackey in thes Judis. Stripes Magazine february 14, 1991