European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 15, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Against your boots and the swallows dipping Andly saying overhead thoughts of future complications slip away downstream. There is Only the moment and it is now and forever. The fish Are there they have always been there. So have the mountains and the Forest. And you Are part of them just As they Are part of you. It was All there in Hemingway s masterpiece an undercurrent that bulged beneath the surface Story like an upwelling from a Spring. There was Pamplona with its crazy Drunken fiesta and the tangled web of relationships that changed from moment to moment. And there was the iraqi Cool and clean and Ever flowing. The quote from Ecclesiastes set the tone for the Book. Lovers and friends May desert or betray you tragedies May tear apart the fabric of your life but Quot the Earth Arideth  and the Trout of the iraqi will be finning in the current Long after you and i and All the people we love or despise Are gone. In the late afternoon the Sun appeared briefly etching the Valley in sunlight and Shadow. Big yellow mayflies began emerging on the River along with a few tiny Black caddies. I hooked and lost three Trout and caught a couple More keeping one Chunky 10 inches for dinner. Later Back at the campsite i poached it Over the Camp stove with a sliced onion and the Hearty Navarre red wine. I ate it in the gathering darkness with the cold Mist rolling in through the Campground. The flesh was delicious and peach coloured and the sauce tasted like Trout wine soup. A Fisherman following in the Boot Steps of Ernest Hemingway casts his Fly for a strike. In Quot a \ All travel Erst tips the iraqi River is located in the Western Spanish pyrenees about 37 Miles Inland from the coast in the province of Navarre. From Pamplona take c-135 North to Espinal and then na-202 to arive. From arive na-203 follows the River North upstream and na-204 follows it South. The Best fishing and scenery Are upriver from arive. When approaching from France take d-932 out of Bayonne then d-918 to St. Jean. From St. Jean take d-933 up to the Roncesvalles pass. The Road becomes c-135 when you Cross the Spanish the Border at Arne Guy. The fishing season on the iraqi is open from the third sunday in March through aug. 31. Because the water remains cold until Well into the season the summer months offer the Best fishing. Spin bait and Fly fishing Are All permitted. Other Good Trout Rivers nearby include the Urr Obi the Salazar the Bidasha and the ure Derra. A a an excellent spot for budget vacationers is the Campground at Espinal camping Urr Obi. Cost per night for a car and one tent with two adults is 1,100 pesetas about $10. The Campground has clean modern showers and restrooms As Well As a Good Small restaurant. There Are also guest House pensions and Small hotels in the area. The Casa Gregorio in arive charges 1,400 pesetas about $12.70 per person per night for bed and breakfast. The Casa Vergara in Burguete charges 1,550 pesetas for the same. The Burguete and the Loizu hotels both in Burguete charge 3,500 pesetas per night for a double room with Bath. There Are very few foreign tourists in the Region so take along a Spanish English dictionary. Fishing licenses in Spain Are issued by the individual provinces. For the iraqi it is necessary to have a License for Navarre licenses Are obtained in Pamplona from the Goberno de Ord Nacion Del Terri Torio Vivient y Medio ambient located at Calle de Al Hondoga 1. A one year License costs 750 pesetas about $6.80. The tourist office in Pamplona located at Duque de Ahumada 3, has brochures and other information about the Region but they were no help in finding out where to get a fishing License. The Telephone number is 048-220741 within Spain. Norm Zeigler a Trout pulled from the River will soon become dinner poached in wine Over a campfire