European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - August 29, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                I x in i m it Rel a nov amp. Girt in Eya <4.- a Lviv it Iii it a v o of \ Fri 1/l w of a a of a it half timbered houses lean across a Plaza in Lorchheim near the Start of the tour. Franzische Schweiz s.? of a m w.  a ,.vx, a a couple relax in a Rowboat on Small Lake near Rottenstein. By Effie Bathen Niernberg Bureau the Franzische Schweiz franconian Switzerland is an Ideal Region for a relaxed excursion through the German Countryside. This Northern bavarian area hounded roughly by Bamberg Bayreuth and Niernberg is a treasure of rugged natural Beauty geographical wonders and colourful half timbered houses. It is also relatively untouched by the crowds and commercialism of the famous bavarian tourist Region near the German Alps to the South. Those living in a the area Call it Quot Little  one of the easiest ways to begin exploring the area is by following route 470 through the quiet Wisent and Pul Tlach River valleys. This route lies Between the towns of Lorchheim and Peri ill and continues eastward toward the Grafe Wohr training area. A be sure to Slop at the Walberta Mountain one of the Region most dramatic Sites. Take the Kirchh Rebai h exit toward Lautenback. Watch for the White sign Quot Walberta Quot and the tiny Road just behind it to the right. The path leading from the upper parking lot is Steep but wide and partially paved. The 10-minute walk a maybe double that for those toting toddlers or pushing strollers a is Worth the Elfort. The View from the Mountaintop is magnificent. On a Windy Day the experience is breathtaking. The emptiness of the plateau is broken Only by a tiny Chapel and contrasts with the Busy Pau work of Fields and Village rooftops below. On most weekends hang gliders lift off from the Mountain rugged edges. I Hose who want to watch can find perches on diff Side rocks that form a natural Amphitheater for the color Lul sport. Picnic facilities Are not available on the Walberta but a bottle of franconian wine and some cheese would be Good accompaniments Tor this moment with nature. For those who like More Down to Earth wonders the area has some 370 caves geological gaps eroded into a massive Limestone formation called the franconian Jura. The Teufel Shole or Devil Cavern is among the most visited. It is near the 1,000-year-old fortress City of Rottenstein. Local legends Tell of spirits of Quot cheaters and seducers Quot tinned there and condemned to Fly like bats in the underground Grottoes. Their despairing cries were said to be heard by those who ventured into its dark Interior. Scientific explorations have found that the Cave was Home to primitive Man and Cave bears. The remains of to prehistoric bears have been discovered in the Cavern. One set of remains still keeps watch from a darkened Corner As visitors wend their Way Between the niches of stalactites and stalagmites. The Maze continues outside of the Cave. Visitors must find their Way through a labyrinth of Rock formations to return to the Entrance. Nearby another path leads to a Trout farm along the Banks of a Stream. Small packets of fish food Are sold for a few pfennig about 50 cents and children can Delight in tossing a handful of food into the water. A Short hike along the Stream in the other direction leads to a Lake where Small boats Are rented. The Cost for a paddle boat that seats four is 8 Marks about $4.75, for 30 minutes the sign for boots Trieb is easy to see from the Highway. The water is Clear enough to see the Bottom and numerous Brown Trout swimming about. Sorry there another sign that says Quot no  an ice Cream stand is on the Edge of the pier. One specially is Eis muscle a Flat Waffle filled with ice Cream. A couple of Marks buys one topped with eggnog liqueur or Raspberry sauce. For those who have worked up an appetite heartier franconian fare is available in local restaurants. Specials of the Day Are often marked on outdoor i chalkboards but there Are certain Staples you can count on. For example a meal of Fri Kische Saue Braten with a dumpling bigger than your fist and a salad will Cost 12-1 3 Marks about $7. The tango beef May be covered with / 1 hut hts a sauce made from the Christmas cookies filled with nuts Honey and Ginger. Meals of Niernberg sausages a Small enough to Quot fit through a Keyhole Quot a or Large or franconian versions Are usually available for less than 10 Marks. For those touring the Franzische Schweiz looking for a bit of Folk culture one shop that deserves mentioning is the erzgebirge Ische Volk Kunst shop at Mug Gendorf. A Green awning with the word Quot souvenirs Quot Marks the Gas station that has been converted into the workshop of craftsman Gunter Ulbricht. The toy factory is named for the famous toy making Region of former East Germany. Visitors can hear a saw slicing through Wood in the backroom where family members make wooden figures and Christmas ornaments. Franconian Folk costumes and craftwork tools Are on display at the Franzische Schweiz museum at Tuch Ersfeld. Tuch Ersfeld is a tiny Village tucked into the sides of the huge Rocky domes that give the area its distinctive look. The museum also has a collection of arc Tiue logical and geological finds. Hundreds of walking paths wind through the area and visitors who do  their cars for hiking will not really see the Franzische Schweiz. One of the most pleasant paths is located beneath gds Weinstein site of an ornate Basilica designed by 18lh Century master builder Balthasar Neumann and the gos Weinstein Castle. The path starts about a Block from the Church behind the information office. A wooden sign Post Marks the was to the water Mill on the River below. The Clover lined path with Mossy boulders twists beneath massive Rock formations that form the base of the Castle. The Franzische Schweiz rustic Charm lasts year round. In the summer when the Flower boxes overflow with the reds and pinks of geraniums Fuschia and impatiens camping and sports like fishing kayaking and horseback Riding Are popular. The area is also Ideal for cycling especially for those who relish the Challenge of Hills. In the Winter Cross country skiers Delight in a Countryside of icy Brooks and cottages with smoke rising slowly irom their chimneys. And around easter people in nearly every Village decorate local fountains with garlands of evergreens and coloured eggs. 4 stripes Magazine August 29, 1991