European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 3, 1991, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The View of san Sebastian with its sheltered Bay As seen from mount Geldo. Of the jewel on the Bay 4an Sebastian by Norm Zeigler travel outdoor writer there Are few cities where surfers can ride the swells right up to the Edge of downtown. But san Sebastian on Spain s Northeast coast is not like most cities. Nestled around the curve of an empyrean Blue Bay and with three Lovely beaches at its Doorstep san Sebastian is very much a City of the sea its climate Outlook and Economy All have a maritime orientation. Today the City that began in ancient times As a fishing Village is a sophisticated world class Beach resort As Well As a Busy port and a bustling commercial and arts Center located in the Western Basque Region where the pyrenees descend in Foothills to the Bay of Biscay san Sebastian is the capital of a Lipuzcoa the smallest province in Spain. Its location on major Road and rail links Only 15 Miles from the French Border makes it an International Crossroads. San Sebastian s distinctive geography makes it easy for strangers to quickly Orient themselves. In the North is the Shoreline punctuated by three Mountain promontories that form the Points of a  at the Bottom of the dips in the Quot a Quot Are the wide yellow Sand beaches Ondarreta la Concha and Gros. Flowing northward through the City is the Drumea River channelled Between Stone Walls and its Banks lined by Linden and plane Trees. With a population of some 178,000 squeezed mainly into a downtown area Only about a mile Square san Sebastian is Small enough not to be intimidating and compact enough to explore on foot. The old town located at the foot of mount Urzull just below the Center Peak of the Quot a is a neighbourhood of four and five Story buildings squeezed together into a couple of dozen Square blocks. At Street level the buildings Are lined with bars restaurants and shops and on the upper floors apartment balconies that nearly touch across the alleyways. The whole area is closed to cars and on hot Days the shadows from the buildings make it a Cool Haven from the iberian Sun. Because san Sebastian was largely destroyed Bys amps photos by Dave Didio English and portuguese forces in an 181.1 Battle to unseat Napoleon s troops the old town is actually comparatively Young. Most of the yellow Sandstone buildings Are in excellent shape. Those that do show signs of weathering Suh As St. Vincent s and St. Mary s churches Are undergoing renovation. The area houses a Lively outdoor Market As Well As the cafe lined Constitution Plaza an arcaded Square that was formerly used As a bullfight Arena. Behind St. Mary s Church visitors can climb the Steps up mount Urzull to Mota Castle. Marking the Southern Edge of the old town is san Sebastian s fifth Avenue the Alameda Del Boulevard. At one end is the tourist office and at the other is the onetime grand Casino now an exceptionally elegant qty Hall. Its front Yard is the Alderi Eder Park a Beac Side strip of lawns gardens and Trees. Below the Park on la Concha Beach Bikini Clad bathers stroll the water s Edge As the surf thunders onto the strand. The most splendid walk in the City is the Beac Side promenade that sweeps around the Bay. In the evenings it fills with crowds out for the traditional evening pase a ritual in which locals go out to enjoy the fading Light and the Cooling Breeze and to see and be seen by their neighbors. A Quarter mile along the the curved walk at continued on  it swimmers and waders Romp in the Waves that Wash the Sand of la Concha Beach near the City Center. H Toni r i strip s May a Ine