European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 18, 1992, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The Royal Palace which has been damaged and rebuilt Many times through the years stands on Castle Hill overlooking the Danube River and the Chain Bridge. Pedestrians crowd one of the busier streets in pest s shopping and business  photos by Ron Mckinney continued from Page 3 with an orchestra and choir. Just behind the Church providing a spectacular View of the Danube River and pest is the Fisherman s bastion. Although the bastion a group of Stone towers appears to be As ancient As the Church it was built just this Century to enhance the Beauty of Castle Hill. Compared to the ambience of its sister City pest bustles with activity. The inner City once surrounded by Walls is the pedestrian Only Center that is the Hub of activity and the beginning of Commerce in the City that stretches for Miles along the intersecting boulevards. Pest is also Home to the magnificent 19th-Century parliament building at the Edge of the Danube River. Another must see sight in pest is the National museum built 150 years ago and packed with history including the Crown jewels of the hungarian monarchy. A walk along the Andrassy it Boulevard is reminiscent of Paris with its wide tree lined Street leading up to heroes Square one could spend a Day exploring heroes Square and the adjoining Central City Park varos Liget. In the area around the Square Are the museum of Fine arts the Tomb of the unknown Soldier and the millennium Monument celebrating 1,000 years of hungarian leaders and National heroes. The Lively City Park contains the Szechenyi Baths where for less than $1, one can swim in an outdoor Pool take a hot Bath and relax in a Sauna. Pedicures and massages there go for 100 forints about $1.25 apiece. Build around the turn of this Century this is one of the largest bathhouses in Europe and is visited by 2 million people each year. Just Down the Street is the Vidam Park an amusement Park that charges 20 forints about 25 cents Entrance fee. You won t find a roller coaster hitting Mach 7 Speed Here but it s a great place for kids to Burn off some Energy for an afternoon. Ride prices Range from 10 to 35 forints about 14-45 cents. There is also a a Castle zoo Pond and permanent t circus in the spacious Park. Another Stop should be the Margaret Island on the Danube. Besides the spacious natural Park there is a for Garden swimming pools and the grand hotel. Budapest s nightlife is nothing to get excited about. I o hear it from the locals one would expect to be walking into new York City s studio 2 1 at some of their More popular clubs. Instead Many of the clubs Are Small and a few generations behind the times. Still they can pack the House with locals. One staggering disappointment about Budapest was its Lack of a local Beer. At just about All the bars the going thing was austrian Beer. As for culture the City offers a wide Range of choices including operas concerts chamber music Ballet and theater. Budapest still has visible scars from generations of feuding whether Between local ethnic groups in centuries past or As a Battlefield for world War ii More recently. After the War in which 70 percent of the City s buildings were destroyed during fighting Between soviet and German troops the City was rebuilt quickly to provide housing for its people. Although the Effort was admirable the resulting simple and practical designs under the socialist regime left Little to gape at. Quot outside the downtown nothing is special Quot said Eva Orosz a Budapest tour guide Quot they did t pay attention to architectural  now instead of reveling in its newfound democracy the 2.5 million people of Budapest Are Busy struggling to make ends meet financially. Many have had to take a second Job. Even so unemployment is High. Although Hungary was an economic Leader in Eastern Europe with ties to the West Long before the collapse of the Iron curtain Orosz says it is having trouble making the transition to a new Type of Economy. Taxes Are higher As Are costs for buses and food. Prices were subsidized by the government four or five years ago but today it is escalating while wages stay Down. She said the average wages Are 15,000 forints $200 a month for those Lucky enough to be employed. Quot every Day life is much More difficult than before Quot Orosz said. Every where one turns in Budapest the economically distraught conditions Are visible. Homeless people sift through garbage cans beggars ask for coins in the main Square. Peasants line both sides of a Walkway displaying goods ranging from tablecloths to caviar a each having mastered a pleading expression. Much of the City is in a state of decay. Apartment buildings Are rotting. And the pollution is disgusting those driving through a Tunnel in Budapest Are Well advised to take a deep breath before plunging into the foul Depths of motorized fumes. But despite All this Budapest remains a City of rare Beauty. Like the ageless Danube it has been through a lot and seen a lot but is still Well Worth exploring