European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - May 21, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Muriel Petit works on a cheese plate in the Kitchen of the hotel de France while employee Mickael Carrel a prepares ingredients a for a cake. Is amps Ken George Norman Cooks love shellfish and Cream by Bill Walker staff writer n Normandy Cooks add a Little Cream to nearly everything. Quot it s a natural ingredient Quot said Lionel Petit chef at a hotel in Signy sur Mer a Small town Between Omaha Beach and Utah Beach. Quot Norman cooking has always made heavy use of Cream and we have it Here in abundance Quot said Petit. A a a a a a a Signy is famed for the local Dairy which has made Salt Flavoured Signy butter and other milk products Staples throughout France and increasingly Well known in Europe. Locals say the key to Good Cream is the robust milk producing cows of coastal Normandy. The herds Graze on grass glazed by the breezes coming off the nearby English Channel adding a slightly Salty flavor to Signy Dairy products. Petit and his wife Muriel co owners of the h6tel.de France in Signy usually Start the Day at the local fish Market. Quot at 4 . The fish Are organized from the catch of the previous night Quot said a Muriel Petit. Quot you Are Able to get the freshest part of the catch at that  then it s Back to the Kitchen to Start creating the meals that have earned the Petite mention in the Michelin red guide to hotels and restaurants. Lionel Petit advises Cooks not to follow Norman recipes strictly. Quot in cooking you should do what you want Cook As you want. If i like a recipe when i read it i still prefer to change one ingredient or another and sometimes i do my own  one of Petit s most popular recipes is for a Scallop dish Coquille St Jacques. Quot it is one of Normandy s most famous and not difficult to prepare Quot he said. The Petite say the 50th anniversary observances of a Day have spurred tourism to the Region putting a spotlight on Norman cooking As visitors Sample a v. A a a a a a. A amps Kengo Orga head chef Lionet Petit mixes Batter for pastries to be served at dinner. The regional specialities. Quot to Cook for these people the most important thing is that you must like what you do Quot Lionel Petit said. Quot and i do. I like food  following is a reconstruction of the Petite recipe for Coqui lest Jacques lot four plus a recipes for another Normandy favorite. Coqui lest. Jacques 1 i pounds of fresh scallops 4 Tablespoons of Signy butter 3 shallots chopped 2 cups of White wine Salt and Pepper 6 ounces of Cream 2 Teaspoons of port 1 egg a cup grated Swiss cheese to cup bread crumbs remove scallops from shells clean shells and set aside. Clean scallops leave whole if Small quartered or sliced if Large. \ heat 3 Tablespoons of Signy butter at medium temperature in a shallow pan. Add the shallots and Cook 2-3 minutes or until softened. Add the White wine and scallops and saute bring just to a boil and poach for 1-2 minutes Over Low heat. Add Salt and Pepper to taste. Remove the scallops and prepare the sauce separately. Boil until reduced to 5 or 6 Tablespoons. Add Signy Cream and port and bring to boil. Remove from heat and add the egg Yolk. Just before serving return scallops to sauce and heat gently. Mix bread Crumb and cheese. Spoon scallops and sauce Back into shells. Sprinkle with bread and cheese and Dot with remaining butter. Place under broiler for 30 to 60 seconds or until  if you put the Yolk in while the sauce is directly on the fire the eggs Cook instead of mixing Quot Lionel Petit explained. Oysters in Leek Curry sauce 24 medium Large live oysters on half Shell opened at last minute and drained 4 Whites of Leeks cleaned Cut into Julienne strips 2 Tablespoons butter 2 More for Gratin 1 Tablespoon Curry powder 2 cups heavy Cream i cup bread crumbs 3a cup grated gruyere or Emmerthal cheese melt 2 Tablespoons butter in heavy bottomed pan Cook Leeks slowly until they Start to soften 2-3 minutes. Add Curry and heavy Cream continue cooking very slowly stirring until mixture pureed. A preheat oven to 475 f. Cover oysters with Cream Leek sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and bread crumbs about 1 Teaspoon per Oyster Dot with butter. Arrange oysters in heavy shallow baking tin and Cook 8-10 minutes until oysters Are bubbling and Golden. 5-Lerve with chilled Chablis or similar White wine serves four a the Asso aled press contributed to this  look Calvados Normandy s ageless Apple Brandy by the stars and stripes dinner in most of France often ends with a Cognac or an armagnac. But in Normandy the Rich Apple Brandy Calvados is the after dinner drink of Choice. Calvados a simply Cava to the locals a is made from a cider base that has fermented for a year or More. The dark liquid is then put through two distil rings and bottled or asked for further  the older the better for drinking Quot recommended one Norman chef adding that a Fine Calvados is often 40-plus years old. And there Are Many ancient bottles around that were sealed before dating the flask became popular. Very Young Calva 3 or 4 years old and still with a Strong rough Apple taste is used in cooking or can be mixed with Coffee for after dinner drinking. Drink the liquor after the meal like a Cognac or Between courses during meals that have two or More meat or sweetmeat courses he advised. The latter practice is sometimes referred to As the Trou Normand or Quot burning a the Norman  its supposed to Speed the digestive process to make room for the courses that Are to come. The Best brands of Calvados come from the pays d auge Region of Normandy and the bottles carry the name of the proprietor. Following is a recipe using Calvados. Norman style Guinea Hen 1 Guinea Hen about 2vi pounds 2 pounds Belnetta apples medium tart a cup Calvados 1 ass Sticks butter 6 ounces Salt milled Pepper generously butter Guinea Hen with about 8tablespoons one stick butter Salt and Pepper to taste. Cook in oven preheated to 370 f for 35-40 minutes until Bird is Golden cooked , Core and slice apples fairly thinly and saute gently in remaining butter until they Start to Brown. When Bird has cooked 30 minutes remove from oven pour on Calvados and flame. Add sliced apples return to oven 5-10 minutes carve Bird and serve with Calvados and juices As sauce. Stir in butter and a Little Stock if necessary for the sauce. Suggested Side dishes fresh Green Beans and crisply sauteed potatoes. Serves four. The associated press contributed to this report. A amps Michael Abrams Calvados a Norman specially. The stars and stripes saturday May 21, 1994