European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 16, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                G ree c Santorini volcanic landscapes sophisticated boutiques and raucous nightlife by j. Kin Cruger Northern Uay Bureau. The Creek Isle of Santorini or Tafra a it goes by both names a is Tike no other Island. Its precipitous face scarred with slashes of red Black and White Rock is what remains of a volcanic Mountain cracked asunder. On the broken Edge of this Volcano High above the cruise ship Anchorage Santorini s whitewashed chief City of Fira rims the Clifftop like frosting on a cake. At its Many terraced cafes and restaurants visitors stare transfixed for hours. They stare at the water filled Caldera of the Volcano while trying to Grap the enormity of the explosion that in a single Day blew a 30-cubic-mile Hole in the Earth. The fabled civilization of Atlantis May have vanished on that Day in 1628 b.c., a Date Only recently established by parallel findings in the Fields of geography oceanography and palaeoclimatology. From the Clifftop Perch nearly 1,000 feet above the sea cruise ships and ferries can be seen crossing the Caldera 37 Miles in circumference. The Calderas Waters Are so deep that cruise ships can t Anchor there. The liners tie up at Large specially made buoys below Fira. Their passengers let off the Leash for a few hours make their Way up the Steep Zigzag cobbled track to Fira on mules or by foot. A far less adventurous but much faster Way to make the ascent is by Cable car. Those wanting a comprehensive introduction to dramatic Santorini Are Well catered to by organized bus and boat Tours that travel along the elongated Island the dangling Pearl at the end of the dry White Windy Chain of the Cyclades. The More Independent traveler is More Likely  on the Island s inexpensive and excellent bus service. A car in t needed on this Island where a slow bus ride from its Northern tip to its Southern Horn takes less than an hour. Across the Harbor Santorini s 6,000 inhabitants have an unspoiled neighbor in therasia with its population of 300. Excursion boats to therasia leave Fira s Harbor at 10 . The trips usually Circle the Harbor and Call at a number of interesting places including the still puffing Crater in the Black and Bleak islet of Nea Kamjeni and its hot Springs where it s possible to swim in ominously warm. Waters. The Daylong trips return at 6 p.m., and Cost about $12. Santorini s main attraction aside from its Savage scenery is a Sotiri the 4,000-year-old City buried in the Island s South. There excavations Are revealing perfectly preserve my to storied buildings pre eruption Homes in what was perhaps the most progressive civilization the world had seen. At the Northern tip of Santorini sits the Enchant the Clifftop town of Oia pronounced Quot be a Quot. With opera music and a nearly 360-degree Panorama of the Sun ricocheting Between the Cliffs and the sugar cube houses the rooftop bar of Melissa s piano cafe in lofty Oia May very Well be the Best Sunset spot on the Mediterranean. Oia was levelled in a 1956 earthquake but its 600 inhabitants have carved new dwellings and rebuilt old ones in its Cliffside. The Creek government has renovated a couple of dozen Homes there a some 300 years old a and now rents them to tourists. The dwellings burrowed into the Cliffs like caves As Are Many Homes in Oia have typically curved roofs and Odd shaped rooms. Called Quot traditional settlements Quot the dwellings come with fully equipped kitchens and can handle from two to nine people. A studio apartment for two costs about $70 per night in High season. S4s in summer Santorini is invaded by tourists mostly Island hopping backpackers who Only stay a Day or two cramming four to a room camping or sleeping rough. Most of the package tour crowd is accommodated at the Black Sand resort of Kamari a favorite with nudists. Travel around the Island seems to confirm the boast that Santorini has More wine than water. Vines coiled like rattlesnakes to protect their grapes from the extreme heat grow everywhere in the Rich volcanic soil. The wine produced is slightly Sweet and packs a Wallop. The Appeal of Many Creek islands is one of primitive simplicity. Don t look for that in Santorini s capital. Three Street wide Fira is a sophisticated town whose Cobblestone pedestrian lanes Are lined with jewellers and continued on Page 8 the Clifftop Village of Oia on Santorini s Northern tip gleams with whitewashed houses. F. June 16, vhf 4 stripes Magazine