European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - October 6, 1994, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Enice if Llly venetians get off the beaten path to discover hidden charms 3hm a hns amps Michael Abrams by John Brunton London observer service few self respecting venetians will be found in the City on those High season Days and holidays when the tourist arrive in their droves. Those who can shut up shop and head for the Hills. Those who remain seek to make As much Money As possible from the tourist invasions. Venice could not survive without the constant Lifeblood of tourism but equally the City at Peak periods seems Likely to sink under the tramp of visiting feet several times in recent years the causeway that links Venice to the italian Mainland has been sealed off because the City has been full to overflowing with visitors. Wise travellers avoid the heat and crush of the summer. A. A a a a. .�.���. The visitor can take Venice at face value a and what a Public face of glorious palaces and Pat Azzos museums and monuments and churches and canvases a or lift the mask and discover the Venice of the venetians behind the City s  moment you turn off any one of the main tourist routes the discovery begins. There is no More Beautiful City for walking around undisturbed by. The noise or danger of motor traffic. In a minute you will find yourself alone wandering Down a narrow cae alleyway crossing an ancient Bridge with a dark canal silently running beneath you where you glimpse the outline of a Gondola sliding past. Finally you end up in an empty Square or courtyard perhaps once inhabited by Marco Polo Vivaldi or Byron dominated by the peeling facade of a Renaissance _ Palazzo or a baroque Church with Only the pigeons and _ a few of the City s thousands of stray cats to keep you company. This is when you will stumble on a Bacaro one of the traditional venetian bars dating Back to the Middle Ages. An Ombra a Glass of local wine such As Verduzo or the excellent sparkling prose co costs Only 55 cents Here and the counter is piled High with delicious Cicchetti of grilled prawn polenta topped with Salami and wild mushroom or creamy Bacchas dried codfish. Must see St. Mark s Cathedral and doge s Palace a a of All the fabulous sights in Venice nothing compares with the first moment you walk into the Piazza san Marco a dazzling mix of european and byzantine architecture the Cathedral was originally built in 1828 to House the relics of St. Mark. _ the adjoining Palazzo due ate with its titans and Tintoretto was erected As the ultimate Symbol of Venice s Power and wealth and crossing through the Bridge of sighs still gives a chill. Continue Don Page a the Quot Campanile Quot or Bell Tower in Piazza san Marco is More than 320 feet tall. A statue of St. Theodore the first Patron Saint o f Venice stands atop another column. J. October 6, 1994 stripes Magazine