European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 28, 2007, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Page 28 stars and St refs june 2007 Page 29 Courtesy of bouchesdurh6ne tourist Board above flamingos Wade in the nature Reserve of Ca Margue in Salinske Giraud near Southern the a windswept River Delta bordering the Mediterranean is one of Europe most important a nesting ground for Pink flamingos and Home to hundreds of other species of Birds and other right a French Cowboy drives a Herd of the Gratis White horses indigenous to the Courtesy of bouchesdurh6ne tourist Board Courtesy of Gull Aroythe bouchesdurh6ne tourist Board the Waters of the Ca Margue Are peaceful at Home of Frances wild things by Ann Levin the associated press in the weeks leading up to our first trip to the French Region of we pored Over guide re acquainting ourselves with images immortalized by Paul Cezanne and Vincent Van we fully expected to see Fields of roman ruins and old men playing the French game of and to feast on Hearty stews redolent of tomatoes Vand no one told us about the Pink much to our Surprise and de Light encountered thousands of feeding and flying in formation Over the shallow lagoons of the Park of the a Hal hours drive South of the a windswept River Delta bordering the Mediterranean is one of Europe most important a nesting ground for Pink flamingos and Home to hundreds of other species of Birds and other the an intricate Patchwork of Salt Rice ranches and is protected by the French which has built a net work of information nature trails and observatories through the marshes and from the Vantage Point of Comfort Able we peered for hours at flocks of marvelling at the ability of the flamingos to retract one spindly leg beneath their bellies and balance on the no matter How Many of the exquisite creatures we we wanted to see you might say they blew a serious Hole in our Provence Titiner we had expected to stay five nights in hoping to use it As a base to explore other towns and villages in the Southern part of a medium size City Rich in roman ruins and Aries has no shortage of its own attractions excellent a vibrant outdoor Market on an International photography festival in the we stayed at a charming Bedan breakfast in the heart of the old which seems to be reinvent ing itself with the arrival of energetic Young people like the owners of our some of the ancient houses along the winding streets have been renovated and painted in Deli Cate pastel just Down the Street from our lodging was an organic and not far from a shop Selling locally produced Olive we made pilgrimage to a cafe Terrace on the place do forum Fea tured in a famous painting by Van who lived in Aries for one extraordinarily productive year of his troubled we inspected giant vats of Paella and tables brimming with local cheeses at the Farmers Market on but mostly we Hung out inthe the trip from Aries was easy Cross Over the Rhone River and take the d36 the two Lane High Way splits off onto a narrower Road that leads past a visitor information stars and stripes Center at la and farther Down the Road at Salin de visitors can mean Der along Well groomed nature trails and observe ducks and other water fowl from viewing platforms built Over tall seas of Reeds and other wild having come this far to the South East Corner of we decided it was crazy to leave the Region without at least putting our feet in the even though when we were it was novem so we drove to a parking area at the Southeast Edge of the Parks largest the Tang do vac and hiked toward the phare de la just before the in trance to the we veered left and marched across the dunes to the sea despite intense heat of the midday the air was a stiff wind from the North ruffled the surface of the Salt in the kit surfers danced Over the sparkling Green after reaching the Waters we retreated to the where we Pic nicked on our provisions from Aries cheese and several people galloped past us on with the Sun arcing toward the it was time to pack our belong Ings and head Back across the freshly whitewashed and sporting Bright Blue the Lighthouse also served As a visitor information Center for this Section of the there were simple displays of feathers and wildflowers to illustrate the ecology of the like the other tourist facilities in the it was decidedly reminiscent of a 1950sera science a few shirts and Post cards were for but nothing approaching the commercial scale of a typical gift shop in the Park if there was a slightly worn look to the nature it might be because human beings have been fussing Here for Salt production alone dates Back to the time of the the Seaside resort of Saintes where some believe Mary Magdalene and other Early christians washed ashore in a boat from Jerusalem in has attracted religious pilgrims for by two besides its human the provisions from Aries make an excellent picnic lunch organic bread with Provencal Olive paste and caviar and eggplant Ca Margue has Long supported wild herds of Black bulls and White hours which have Given Rise to a French style Cowboy French president Nicolas Sarkozy was photo graphed there on a White horse two Days before the first round of Frances elections earlier this tourists can explore the Camar gue on horseback alongside the or French cowboys watch bullfights and Sample the distinctive flavors of Bull meat and sausage in local shops and whether youre a Wannabe cow a devoted Birdwatcher or a devotee of Van youre Likely to find something in the Park that strikes a for will never forget the flamingos we by the Are not pesto Bimol their plumage comes in delicate hues of Rosy Pink and with dramatic Black flight feathers visible when their wings Are the Lawn ornament manufacturers who have turned these Spe Tacu la looking Birds into tropical Kitsch have simply got it know go getting there the Tang de vac a principal viewing site in the Ca Margue for Pink is about 15 Miles South of attractions in the boulevards Des lines and George Clemenceau Host a Busy Farmers Market on saturdays the roman theater and Amphitheater in the old City Are Good examples of the roman ruins found throughout Provence the Arlatex museum has three floors of artefacts and costumes that illustrate traditional Provencal life place do in the heart of the old is where Vincent Van Gogh painted one of his masterpieces in lodging Aries has a number of Nice including some centrally located in the old we stayed at la a tiny at Rue Croix Rouge or 0 dining try la charcuterie Arles Rue Des for reasonably priced meals in a Moman pop restaurant where the owners dog is Likely to sit at your especially if you order go to place Nina berber for fabulous couscous and taglines a Good lunch spot for organic sandwiches and quiche is a pain Rue Des Ann Levin