European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - June 07, 1977, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Page 20 the stars and stripes tuesday june 7, 1977 modern living free form fashion for fall shape of clothes to come free form rather than structured. Stories by Bernadine Morris new York times Here has been during the Pas few seasons an enormous change in the spirit of the clothes in the women s fashion Industry. The movement since that is what it is now is reaching its culmination in the fall clothes collection that will begin appearing this month in stores in the United states. What nearly All the clothes introduced for fall in the last few weeks have in common in fact is that they Are free form rather than structured. The dress that used to zip up the Back and be so stiff it could stand alone without a body inside it is a thing of the past. So is the one that imposes its shape on the wearer. Today the wearer controls the shape pulling draw stringed or Elaste clued waistlines up or Down sashing dresses or blouses where she likes., drawing elasticized necklines on or off the shoulder and making other adjust ments that personalize the clothes. This is made possible through the wide spread use of supple fabrics without Lin Ings or inner construction. Generally the clothes arc full enough so they float about the body anchored where and if the wearer  movement has been going on for some time however heralded towards the end of the 1960s by the popularity of soft Jersey fabrics especially for evening. This was followed by the importance of knitted clothes of All kinds and of capes ponchos and shawls for cover ups in the 1970s.but this fall the new trend pervades All lands of apparel at All Price Levels. The clothes Are flexible fluid and gentle. They can be put together in ways that reflect the wearer and the prevalence of separates makes for almost infinite variations As Dif Ferent pieces Are assembled in different  everything is a sense of Comfort surpassing even that of Blue jeans at least until they Are bleached and washed and worn enough to take on the configuration of the body. Unlike jeans the new clothes do not cling. They slum the body at Best Many float away from the body. They never re strict or feel  represent what is probably the big Gest change in fashion since dior launched his new look 30 years ago. That was acclaimed for its hourglass shape rounded bosom and hip me joined by a minimal Waist. It also aroused protests because it dropped hemlines from the Vicinity of the Knees to the Vicinity of the Ankles. Hemlines begin inching upward until they reached the thigh High level of the 1960s, and waistlines vanished briefly in 1997 with the introduction of the Chemise. But the dior legacy persisted As method of constructing clothes. Supporting the hourglass shape was a conglomeration of petticoats lining Bones padding and stiffening on the inside. Though the Silhouette straightened out after a decade fabrics were still stiff and linings were considered essential until recently. Even the briefest Mou dresses were Usu ally lined and structured. When the Midi was introduced in 1970. Bringing hemlines Down to the mid or lower calf clothes were still made in the same stiff Way. The result was an awk Ward look that justified the wave of pro tests against longer skirts and left Many hanging unsold on the Racks. It ushered in a pants Era which has still not run its course. But even pants Are now frequently made with drawstrings at the Waistline and a supple feeling. Lengths have settled in the area of. The calf but precisely where is a matter of taste and the nature of the style itself. Length it no longer an Issue. A number of designers have introduced tunic like Short dresses which Are worn Over an assortment of tights leg warmers and boots and Are expected to Appeal to the very Young. They will coexist alongside the More numerous longer styles. The big news is in the Structure or rather Lack of Structure of the clothes themselves. This is not Likely to result in a new wave of protests since it is not shocking to the Eye. Compared to a big Rise or drop in hem lines it is a Subtle change. What it requires from the wearer is adjustment to the new Freedom. No Way to the body squeezed or compressed. Every thing feels easy and relaxed. Since the fabrics Are Light As Well As soft even Winter clothes have a sense of weightlessness. Smock like Coats and dresses dirndl. Skirts Loose tips and a plethora of shawl make the Outlook a pleasant one. Why is it an happening in the pin Ion of designers it is a modern approach to the question of dressing. Contemporary women do not want their bodies compressed or distorted by the de mands of fashion designers believe. They do not want their movements restricted or then Comfort attacked. The new clothes permit Freedom and look pretty. Bous no soft n easy t a Blouse look for Day Wear. He fashion lexicon for fall is full of such code words As  soft and  they describe the general Drift of the new clothes. A specific Way this effect is achieved is through Clousing. There s nothing very esoteric about it. Windbreakers have expressed the look for a Long time. They re usually Cut full enough to go easily Over shirts and sweater Sand they have a knitted cuff at the Waistline to hold them dose to the body and prevent the wind from blowing through. The current fal used look in t tremendously concerned with such practical notions though they do enter in. Often there is a drawstring at the end that can be adjusted at the Waist or below it depending on where it feels most comfortable. Elastic at the Waist band serves the same function. What is  is that mousing francophile tend to Call it the Youson has swept All aspects of fashion to the Point where it is one of the major characteristics of the new season. There Are Blouse sweaters dresses jackets Coats and even Blouse blouses. Some designers asked by store buyers for More blouson have simply tucked the Loose tops of two piece dresses into the Waist bands of the skirts that accompany them. Voila in Stant blouson the totally relaxed shape turns up in clothes As casual As the windbreaker and As formal As the Pale satins that Are de signed for the evening. It also gives a fresh look to the sweaters which have been a key part of the fashion picture for several sea sons. The newest sweaters Bend under at the Bottom aided by the ubiquitous drawstring or elastic. These too run from sporty to Dressy. Add a pair of Satin pants to one of the latter and most after dark social situations Are taken care of with style. Bloating has contributed to the transformation of the shirt into the Blouse for fail aided by such delicate de tails As Fine tacks or pleats at the shoulder and ruffles at the neckline. Instead outfitting snugly blouses tend the build of the new style Blouse gently but some go to extremes of fullness. Then they tend to be called bubbles an other word that will be coming into fashion this fall