European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 10, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse                                The last big Hood was in 1927. From Vaduz the traveler has a Choice of taking two other directions through blazers to Switzerland or into the mountains to the resort town of Malbun. Blazers has the i hid Castle in Liechtenstein. Schloss Gutenberg. It was privately owned Lor years but has been purchased by the country and is undergoing renovation. The Road into the mountains winds to Triesenberg an old Village All slopes settled by the Walters. Who came from the upper Valais in Switzerland in the 13th Century. Many of the old Walser Nar is and the Walser style of houses survive. T.6 via a tourist office includes two fascinating museums open tuesday saturday 1 30-5 30 . Admission 2 francs for adults and 1 franc for children. One room contains the almost surrealistic woodcarvings of Rudolf Schadler an artist who refused 10 sell his works As souvenirs. The carvings Are fashioned trom roots crucifixes owls Birds dancers strange creatures. Upstairs is the Folk museum filled mostly with valuables irom the chapels and churches and with Wax pictures and candles fashioned by nuns. There is a typical one room House examples of ceramics and textiles and ornately engraved too s. The Walters Are Good woodworkers to this Day. A photo of the last Liechtenstein Soldier one Joseph Beck 1842-1912. Is in this museum. An army existed in the country Lor about 50 years but was abolished in 1868. None of the soldiers was killed in Battle. Groups can ask to see the tourist office s slide show in English Lor an idea about Triesenberg and its surroundings. Past Triesenberg the Road climbs to Steg. A typical Shepherd s Village Laid out in a rectangle surrounding a huge Meadow. Go up to the Berg Gasthoff sucka for the Best View. Beside the main Road is the 17th-Century Chapel of St. Martin and St. Wendelin at the Edge of a tumbling Mountain Stream. Steg has Only one hotel but visitors can rent Little Wood houses Lor a peaceful stay. There is a Lake Here and in Winter the Toboggan run is floodlit. The last Stop for cars in Malbun a ski resort which keeps a chairlift open in summer too Lor walkers and hikers Don t pick the wild Flowers there could be a Fine. Until the beginning of this Century Malbun was strictly agricultural for Hay making and woodcutting. By tradition the Farmers left Malbun with All their worldly goods before Christmas eve. When the ghosts and wicked spirits took Over until Spring. Now the skiers have Given rout to such superstitions. Not that one has to spend All the time travelling around the country. Plenty of activities Are available including Tennis horseback Riding and hang gliding. The country has two Riding schools two covered Tennis Halls plus outdoor courts arid an Active hang Glide club that meets at the restaurant a in Vaduz. Many travellers use Austria or Switzerland As a base and visit Liechtenstein Bui it makes sense to use Liechtenstein As a base and visit Austria and Switzerland. It is a Short drive to St. Gailen Switzerland which has one of the most spectacular cathedrals in the country. Farther afield but easily reachable is Uke Constance the Bode see. With its lower Island Patnau. Marienfeld Switzerland is charming with cobbled streets bad Ragaz is a spa town not far from the spectacular tar Nina Gorge Jargans is dominated by a 13th-Century Castle which has a top flight Folk museum. And in Austria Fel Kirch ust across the Border i Worth at least a Day. This fortified town has preserved to medieval layout and arcaded squares. It too. Has a Castle Schattenburg. The Liechtenstein tourist office likes the idea of Ling the country As a travel base. They say Liechtenstein go to it not through it. Lumber 10.1985 the main Street in Vaduz of a flow with Day Trippen who Are not discouraged by  and Board press trains Don t Stop in Liechtenstein though the Paris Vienna line goes through. Crossing irom Switzerland the Only Way to know this is a separate country is by the Flag flying at the Border and Welcome to Liechtenstein signposted mid Bridge Over the Rhine. The austrian Border has the usual customs stations but in you want a Liechtenstein stamp in your passport go to the tourist Ollice in downtown Vaduz and pay a Hall Iran about 20 cents Lor it. It s a Little country but a cosmopolitan one. German is the official language but the residents Are Multi Lingual. They say goodbye As you leave a restaurant with Cao.  As could be expected in a cosmopolitan land Good hotels and restaurants Are easy to Lind. And in All Price ranges. Rooms rent per night for 17 to 160 francs about $7.75 to $73 for singles and 28 to 240 francs about $12.75 to $110 for doubles. Several campgrounds Dot the landscape and a youth Hostel is located on the outskirts of Vaduz. A Good medium class hotel in the Middle of Vaduz is the hotel Engel where rooms rent Lor 55 to 70 francs about $25 to $32 for singles and 75 to 90 francs about $34 to $41 for doubles. Rooms have toilet Bath or Shower radio Telephone and some have balconies. The upstairs restaurant has class or sit on the Terrace and be Normal. Telephone 075-21057 or 21186. The Gasthaus Lowen is one of the oldest buildings in Vaduz full of atmosphere with a glassed in restaurant that opens onto it own minute Vineyard and a View of the Prince s Castle. Rooms and breakfast with Bath rent Lor 40 francs about $18 Lor one and 70 francs about $32 Lor two. Without Bath Cost is 28 and 52 francs about $13 and $23. Telephone 075-21408. To get away irom the Bustle of Vaduz try one of the Small hotels or guest houses up in the mountains. A Good one is the Saroja in Planken with a View Over the Rhine Valley. Rooms Cost 32 50 francs about $15 for a single with Shower and 65 francs about $30 Tor a double with Shower. Telephone 075-31584. A pleasant Campground is camping Mitta Spitze. Named for the Mountain in whose Shadow it sits. Located Between Vriesen and blazers. About four Miles from Vaduz it has spots for both tents and travel trailers. There Are a swimming Pool toilets and Wash rooms All kept spotless by owner Otto Schurte. About Hall the Camp is reserved by permanent residents. Cost for one overnight is 5 francs $2.25 for adults. 2.50 francs for children 2 francs Lor a car and 5 trans for a camper or tent. A brochure in English is available. Contact camping Mitta Spitze fl-949s Vriesen Liechtenstein. Tel. 075-25421 or 22105. The food in Liechtenstein resembles Swiss and austrian with an International hair. About the Only local specially is Esse Knolle. Ideally homemade a sort of miniature dumpling stirred up with lots of cheese topped with Fried onions and with applesauce alongside. The Kas Knopfle made by Frau hug at the gasohol a in Vaduz Are Fine and the portions Large. Most of the folks in this restaurant Are locals a Good sign in any Book and the prices Are reasonable. The restaurant Linde in town and forum restaurant Down by the River Are also Good local places. At the other end of the scale is the restaurant real which can hold its own with the Star restaurants in France. An a la carte dinner for one Cost 80.50 francs about $37. It started with a Kiras aperitif then Tomato soup roast Duck and a selection of sorbet with Superb Melon washed Down with a Quarter of Vanduzer Rose and some Mineral water finished off with Coffee and Petit fours. The elegant dining room is upstairs or sit in one of the cozy ground floor rooms or Collee and Light snacks As Well As meals. For reservations Tel. 075-22222. The real is undoubtedly the Premier restaurant in Liechtenstein but owner Felix real has trained several Chels who now have restaurants that May one Day give him a run Lor his Money. One of these is the Waldholz at Scheanwald just outside Wendeln. The Cream of Cress soup is Worth a trip the salads and Venison very Good. Menus Start at 45 francs about $21. For reservations Tel. 075-31138. Another real Spinell is hotel Schatzmann in Vriesen with menus also at 45 francs. This time the Cress came in a sauce with Salmon and the Venison was tasty but the White chocolate mousse was the Star of the meal. The restaurant has local wines As Well As French. Swiss and italian. For reservations Tel. 075-29070. Another Well known restaurant in Vaduz is the Torkel. Set in the Prince s Vineyard and therein lies a tale. Liechtenstein Small As it is still finds room Lor vineyards about 34 acres of them. The Prince produces about half the wine in the country and almost allot the country s wine is processed in the winery he established in 1953. Production is so Small Between 60,000 and 90,000 liners a year that almost All the wine is drunk locally or next door in Switzerland. In earlier times Vaduz possessed six wine presses or Torjei As they Are called. With the Advent of modern processing methods the old Torkel Ell into disuse. But one has been revived As a restaurant with the magnificent Torkel beam in the Center of the room. It is Lull of atmosphere but the real has better Lood. For reservations Tel. 075-24410. The hol Kellerer. The Prince s wine cellar will arrange wine tastings Lor groups. In addition to Selling wine by the bottle the cellar has the local Schnaps Vanduzer Marc. For information about staying in Liechtenstein including listings of hotels and brochures about Holiday activities Contact Liechtenstein tourist office. Fl-9490 Vaduz Liechtenstein. 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