European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - November 16, 1985, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Saturday november 16, 1985 the stars and stripes or -.,._ r tit. An orig i by Titi atop the Hill that partially to Tomb the ancient Neenie City of Marib. Kat chewing and drilling for Oil Arabia s frankincense Trail National geographic in Aden capital of South Yemen red Banner Scall Lor immortality to the martyrs of the revolution and glory to the people and  in most parts of the country remarkably Little has changed since the Days of Camel caravans. In the crowded Sug Al Tam marketplace in Aden the bouquet of frankincense and myrrh of Rose Attar and sandalwood mingles with the scent of cloves cinnamon Collee Cardamon and thyme. People Chew Kal a mild stimulant. Despite South Yemen s new socialism places like the medieval town of Al Mukalla still hark Back More to Muhammad than to Marx. Allah Akbar Allah Akbar god is great Calls the Muezzin in his minaret at 4 30 each morning. Retracing "arabia1 frankincense Trail in a National geographic article writer Thomas Abercromble and his photographer Wile Lynn found the entire area of South Yemen almost As isolated As in the first millennium ., when herbs spices and incense were coveted commodities. Among the first american journalists to gain Access to South Yemen the Abercrombie followed remnants of the ancient incense Road some 2,400 Miles through Arabia from Southern Oman Over Yemen s High mountains and across the dunes and Black volcanic deserts of saudi Arabia to Petra a once wealthy Nabataean settlement lying in today s Jordan. In roman times a rugged journey of some 80 marches the Trail still offers challenges reports Thomas Abercrombie. People along the Way. Although hospitable have their reasons to be chary of outsiders. Pro Western countries astride the ancient route share it uneasily with the soviet backed regime in South Yemen saudi Arabia militantly guards strict islamic traditions. Many areas Bow to no government except local renegade  he says. Here sub machine guns Are part of everyone s kit. All in All the journey was probably More convenient Back in the first  because of the restrictions on crossing International boundaries Abercrombie was sometimes forced to backtrack. Once he had to travel Lor two weeks to reach a Point that was Only t5 Miles from where he started. Trade patterns As Well As boundaries have changed. Today in Southern Arabia where the Bestol the frankincense Trees grow just a Lew tons of the aromatic Are produced each year mainly Lor rituals and health uses. At the time of Jesus More than 3.000 tons May have been exported annually to consecrate temples mask the odor of cremations and treat every ill irom gout to a broken  As a scholar in South Yemen explained it was a giant  whole civilized world craved incense Lor their altars South Arabia controlled the source. It developed a powerful Cartel a kind of open of its  the limit recorded mention of frankincense appeared on the 35-Century-old Tomb of Queen Hatshepsut who had sent an expedition to the land of punt probably the somali coast to bring Back frankincense. Myrrh a Darker Richer aromatic perfumed the Royal mummies of Egypt and was mentioned in the old testament As a main ingredient in the anointing Oil of the jews. In 450  Herodotus the greek father of history said of Arabia s aromatics the whole country is scented with them and exhales an odor marvellously  the Scarcity of water that made camels such a necessity on the frankincense Trail May soon be alleviated in North Yemen. With financial Aid irom the United Arab emirates the government is building a new dam near Marib. The capital of ancient Sheba or Saba. Soon Oil May also help the North yemeni Economy. A Pitolo yemeni merchant Chews mildly narcotic Kat leaven. Abercrombie joined a Convoy of trucks loaded with caustic soda and drilling mud Lor their two hour run to a Well in the Middle of  it s a Wildcat All  the drilling Foreman told him. The nearest Oil Well is 600 Miles away on the other Side of  Oil May earlly eclipse the modest Noah yemeni frankincense Trade and finance new ways of living but one custom seems there to stay. The habit Tor mag Leal called Kal. Chewed by most yemenis is the country s most profitable crop. Outlawed during the work week throughout most of South Yemen Kat is still part of the daily ritual in the North at once a Joy and a  says Abercrombie. Soon alter midday the whole country closes Down As men begin to shop Lor packets of leaves then gather with friends for the camaraderie of the