European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - January 2, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                A Steak so Large it had to be folded in half to Fiton the plate. The Well fed rat who ambled across the dining room floor while we ate an excellent meal at a fish restaurant in Pat Zucaro. O a Young Man a Tara scan Indian returning from the Harvest walking along the Road with a sickle in one hand and a portable cassette record Erin the other. A troupe of chinese acrobats staying in our hotel in Pat Zucaro. As the acrobats prepared to leave the next morning the local mexican schoolchildren wanted to hug and kiss them goodbye much to the Shock of the chinese who obviously weren t accustomed to such overt displays of affection. Being attacked in my hotel room by the biggest Cucu Racha i d Ever seen. And i be lived in Texas and Asia where the cockroaches Are not weaklings that audacious insect flew directly at me landed on my dress and proceeded to walk calmly around on me while i jumped up and Down and yelled things that ought t to be printed. The Saleslady at an artisanal in Guadalajara who thanked me for looking her in the Eye and smiling at her instead of just ignoring her like All the other customers did. After a few Days in Mexico i could understand Why so Many people describe it As a land of  i began to expect the unexpected but sometimes i was caught off guard. In Mexico appearances Aren t always what they seem As i soon discovered when we chose to spend the night in a Beautiful old colonial inn located in Morelia. Stone archways led from the entry Hall into the Parlours and dining room each with 20-foot ceilings massive antique furniture and windows covered with faded brocade drapes and old lace curtains. From outside at first glance the dining room looked especially elegant with its White tablecloths and Francily folded napkins vases of Flowers and bottles of wine. In the lobby was posted a menu Del Dia menu of the Day offering two interesting choices for each course and stating that the restaurant served meals continuously from 2 to 10 30 . Anticipating a Good meal in Beautiful surroundings we walked into the dining room. The illusion of elegance was shattered As soon As we approached our table. The White Tablecloth was a Dingy Gray with crumbs and spills scattered across it. The flatware was very cheap very old stainless steel and the plates were truck Stop cafe Quality. Even the Flowers in the vases were wilted. It was a Long time before a very bored waitress slouched out of the Kitchen and headed in our direction. She handed us an a la Carle menu that made no mention of the menu Del Dia. We asked. No menu Del Dia. The a la carte menu listed Only a few dishes Standard ones usually served in Formica cafes not the foods we expected in a highly recommended Spanish colonial inn. Becoming suspicious of the whole situation we ordered the Only dishes that seemed at All appetizing to us Huevos ranchers ranch style eggs and Rioles con quest Beans with cheese for my husband Chi Aquiles Tortilla hash for me and two bottles of Dos equip Beer. Soon after we d Given the waitress our order four Well dressed elderly mexican ladies came into the dining room. I was curious to see what they chose to eat for the evening meal in this Down at the heels place All four requested cafe con leche literally Coffee with milk but actually the emphasis is on the milk. They were served Tali old fashioned soda Fountain glasses filled w the steaming hot milk into which they spank led then stirred nescafe instant  heaping spoons of sugar. When All and finished the concoction the waitress brought each a bottle of coca cola. For a Chaser they each ate one slice of pineapple. It was a surrealistic supper that seemed almost appropriate in those surroundings. While the Cook was apparently trying to figure out How to prepare the simple dishes that we had requested our Beers were brought to the table. Two Dos Equi a in Long neck bottles no glasses. We skilled the Beer straight from the bottle Texas Macho style and watched As act ii entered the dining room. He was a Middle aged Man dressed in golfing clothes. Without acknowledging the presence of anyone else he walked into the adjacent parlor sat Down at an upright piano and began playing As time goes by. It must have been the Only piece he knew because he played it Over and Over again. Raising our Iong neck Beer bottles we toasted Rick and Casablanca and All those Good times gone by. At last our own meal arrived and surprisingly it was quite edible. The Only problem was that the Bottoms of Nur plates were slightly conical instead of Flat. Every time either of us stuck a Fork into the food the plate spun around like a top. By that time however nothing could faze us. We ordered two More Dos equip and settled Down to enjoy dinner accompanied by the repetitive strains of the golfer s piano music. I had discovered Chi Aquiles Early on that trip and subsequently ordered it whenever i found the dish listed on the menu. Each time i was served something slightly different variations on a theme All based on the use of Fried Tortilla pieces cooked in Chile sauce and garnished according to the whim of the Cook. Pronounced Chee Lah Kee Lehs this peasant dish is reputed to be an excellent cure for a hangover. Another traditional mexican remedy is men Udo tripe Stew but Given the Choice i d opt for the hangover it s actually just a Thrifty Way to use up stale tortillas and leftover food. And there Are surely As Many recipes for Chi Aquiles As there Are Cooks in Mexico. Mexican food expert Diana Kennedy devotes an entire chapter to Chi Aquiles in the Tortilla Book and she also includes recipes for this dish in her classic Cookbook the cuisines of Mexico. According to Kennedy Chi Aquiles is derived from the Aztec word s Chil a Quilitz referring to herbs or greens in Chile Broth with the colloquial meaning of a broken up old  and indeed the torn pieces of Tortilla sitting in a disorderly pile on the plate do resemble broken pieces of Woven Straw hats. In English Chi Aquiles is usually translated As Tortilla casserole or Tortilla  although a casserole and a hash Are two quite different dishes the English terms Are actually rather accurate because Chi Aquiles can either be cooked on top of the stove like a hash or layered in a casserole and baked in the oven. Mexican recipes for Chi Aquiles often use such ingredients As Tom Tillos mexican Green tomatoes a Azote an Herb Cilantro fresh coriander leaves Ancho Guajillo Poblano or Serrano Chiles and quest Fresco fresh cheese similar to Farmer cheese or pot cheese. But it s also possible to make an authentic version of Chi Aquiles using ingredients that Are More readily available outside of Mexico. The following recipe is for a Type of Chi Aquiles that i first ate in Zacatecas. You can serve a Large portion of it As a main course accompanied by guacamole salad or a tossed Green salad. Or use smaller Servings of it As a Side dish for roasted Chicken or broiled meats. And if you re still suffering from the effects of too much Holiday partying eat a big portion of Chi Aquiles As a Home remedy for those Day after  Prospro Ano Nuevo Chi Aquiles Tortilla casserole 24 Corn tortillas 5-Inch diameter 1 Small onion 12 ounces mild Cheddar longhorn or Monterrey Jack cheese 1 cup sour Cream 3 Tablespoons milk 1 Pound tomatoes fresh or canned 2 a Alapera peppers fresh or canned v4 cup Chile powder Texas style or new Mexico Type 2 Large cloves of garlic v4 Teaspoon dried oregano 1/4 Teaspoon ground cumin Salt Corn Oil or safflower Oil for frying 2 cups Chicken or beef Stock omit if using Texas Chili powder which already contain oregano and cumin one Day in Advance set the tortillas out at room temperature so they can dry. The next Day break each stale Tortilla in half then break the halves into 3 or 4 equal size pieces. Slice the onions thinly and separate the slices into rings. Coarsely shred the cheese. In a Small bowl whisk together the sour Cream and milk until they Are thoroughly blended. Set All these ingredients aside. Put into a blender Container the tomatoes peeled and Seede Jalapeno peppers chopped Chile powder garlic cloves chopped and oregano and cumin Only if using new Mexico Type Chile powder. Puree the mixture until smooth. Taste and add up to i Teaspoon of Salt if necessary. If you used canned tomatoes and Jalapenos no additional Salt will be needed leave the Puree in the blender Container. Pour the vegetable Oil into a Large Skillet to a depth of i Inch and heat he Oil until hot. Fry the Tortilla pieces in the Oil in batches of one third until the pieces arc Golden but not browned. Drain the Fried Tortilla pieces on paper towels. Pre heat the oven to 350 degrees. Pour off All but 2 Teaspoons of the Oil in the Skillet. Add the pureed sauce from the blender and Cook Over medium heat stirring constantly for 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the Chicken or beef Stock and bring the mixture to a boil Over medium heat. Remove from heat. Use a 10-Inch diameter round casserole or a 9 Inch Square casserole. Cover the Bottom of the casserole with half of the Tortilla pieces in an even layer. Sprinkle half the cheese Over the tortillas then pour half the sauce Over the cheese. Repeat with a second layer of Tortilla pieces shredded cheese and sauce. Cover the casserole with aluminium foil and bake it at preheated 350 degrees f. For 20 minutes or until the tortillas just begin to turn soft. Drizzle the thinned sour Cream Over the top of the Chi Aquiles and Garnish with onion slices. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 main dish Servings. Note you can Fry the Tortilla pieces and make the sauce in Advance then assemble the casserole whenever you re ready to bake it. Leftover Chi Aquiles can be reheated in the oven some people like the flavor or Chi Aquiles even More on the second Day after h was made. Variations reduce the number of tortillas to 18, and use any of the following alone or in combination in the layers of the casserole along with the cheese cooked shredded Chicken or pork chopped Black or Green olives sauteed ground beef and or onions. You can use crumbled Farmer cheese pot cheese fresh cheese Ricotta cheese or even Creek feta cheese As a substitute for the cheeses listed in the recipe. Chi Aquiles can also be garnished with sliced hard boiled eggs Avocado slices radishes sliced thinly or shaped into roses or chopped fresh coriander leaves Cilantro. Cd w86, Snorton Hud Otoi january 1,1986 stripes Magazine