European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - June 12, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse Review a game try at preparing wild dishes by sgt Reu Clement Lounder Vou can talk All you want about your big one thai col away about your 20-Pound Bass or your 14-Point Buck or maybe even your Over size Coney or Squirrel or Coon but you will never know nothing about real Hunting until you have heard brew Star Doody s tale about the one thai slipped away irom him by the name of big Belinda Bovery. She was a stewardesses for old Beaumont air a Carrier thai for awhile anyway did everything big including flying 747s Between Dallas and West Texas even if in meant cruising mostly empty and passing out three or four dinners 10 every passenger just so the processed Chicken and spinach croquettes would not go bad. As jumbo Perry always says the Days before the Faa started Reg a lating airline food was indeed Good brew Star himself was on mid tour leave rom Korea fitted out in a new set of summer greens and flying tourist on a Beaumont shuttle coming out of Chicago. Straight ahead was waiting big a Home of a couple Hundred tons of Barbecue and Many truckloads of Pearl. The exact prescription for hushing out six months Worth of . Beer and All thai Winter Kimchi. Until big Belinda came roaming Down the aisle that is. Shu was sort of gliding Between the seats Brewster says a six footer pushing the Little drink Carl before her these iwo perfect hips rotating As gently As Bowling Alley ceiling fans. Imagine a Beehive of Brunette hair slacked up and sprayed Down and enormous eyes big eyes and skin skin smoother n fourth gear on a Pete Bill. Curves Clem More curves than the Pike s Peak Access Road. And perched on one of them was the Wittje name lag the Beaumont air slogan glittering in the thine of the Reading fights i m big Belinda Bovary Lei s Wing it Well there it was. It was some serious sort of Cail Hof Tannenberg offers traditional game dishes in a no nonsense atmosphere. Love right Ihen right there Browner says. But in was nol to be because when big Belinda roamed up to his seat Brewster sat up kind of straight stared into the very deep Depths of those big old by t s and said Gimme a Pearl Lite big Belinda disappeared into the Galley and must have slipped off the plane in Kansas City while Brewster was taking a Nap. I spent my whole leave hanging Oul in Dow hoping for a second Chance. But Belinda the big big one had got friends so it goes with people who have to turn 35 before they master gelling All the pins out of a new shirt. Still it was the retelling of this very sad late just the other week that made me offer to buy Brewster some cheering up Chow and so we kind of Dol fully fan East coast word meaning Down in the Mouth piled into his to and headed toward Casi Hof Tannenberg a game restaurant in Juse Nheim Germany just Down the Road a piece from Heidelberg. Your Tannenberg is not much to look at being kind of run Down on the outside and Soun belter Days Hunter on the inside. There is your usual Supply of Small dead animals Hung on the Wall your Rabbit Here and your boar there plus some crossed Spears and an old gun. One interesting addition is a stained Glass window of a wild Turkey the menu is not immense being completely game but including pheasant a couple Deer dishes Rabbit wild Duck and a game goulash. The starter courses Are soups or snails end of discussion. We both ordered up the snails and then went our separate ways with Brewster taking on some Doc steaks and me heading for the stuffed pheasant. The service is very fast Here and we barely had time to slide Back a couple of Campari sodas before the snails arrived stewing in their Little pools of garlic butter and served up with some very excellent French bread High Marks Here. The waitress was Back in no time spreading steaming planers All Over the table and i ing our order for a Little dry red wine sold by the Glass and passable but no More. We both wasted no time digging in Brewster going for the first of his two Deer steaks which came served in a thick Gravy and with a Side order of red cabbage. I followed suit taking the leg off my pheasant which had been sitting up on a nest of sauerkraut leaking a Little of the ground beef and Deer meat stuffing. Brewster and me split a bowl of four dumplings. There is not a whole lot you can say about Venison and Brewster therefore did t mumble much More than a goo Ood Between bites and reaching for More of the red cabbage. That pheasant though was another matter. I did t bother much with the sauerkraut but the Bird was cooked exactly right still Juicy and falling off the Bones and that meat stuffing is worthy of a solid 9.5 on the International scale. Damn Fine stuff. Brewster and me arc not crazy about dumplings ourselves but those who Are will like the fact that these Are made on the premises Jwj arc not undercooked our biggest complaint they charge extra for the wild Cranberry sauce and if you Don t order it you Don t get it. Came without cranberries is a sad thing. After Brewster had polished off the Deer and i had Given up trying to finish the pheasant too much friends too much we ordered up some Little coffees and Brandy and figured out our railing. Like i said higher up a ways the place is not much to look at but it is clean and comfortable. The service itself is lightning fast and Friendly and the food is real Good if you like traditional game dishes. Price Wise you Are going to need about $10 a head to eat Well not counting drinks. Cast Hof Tannenberg is located at Haupt Strassl 10 in Sugenheim one of the stops along the Bergstrasser Between Frankfurt and Heidelberg it ii closed on thursdays and reservations Are a Good idea on the weekends. Call 06257-7389. Brewster and me give the place three and a half pointy fingers. Kiting awesome eats. We re talking Paradise on a plate Here. 3 b Boffl very Fine dining. Crack service and memorable food and drink. Solid Chow. Cood food of atmosphere and pleasant service. H a decent. About equal to a Ponderosa Steak House. G pm Hutul Crummy Chow so so service Semi ratty Interior. 20 stripes Duguine june 12,13ss
