European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 19, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Italian cooking the Hazan Way not much on looks but heavy on taste by Paula butt Hin United press International Arcella Hazan Bent Low Over the garlic slivers fresh tomatoes and Olive Oil bubbling in the Skillet took a deep whiff and sprinkled in an e1ra Pinch of sail. Then another Hazan. A Tommei biology and male teacher who arguably has done More to cleanse american palates of i Veirchel boy a dec traditions ban any other italian Cook did t need to can to her husband Victor to do the actual talc testing he slipped into i Tor Venice Kitchen As if on Cue. Sampled a dab of sauce from a Well worn wooden spoon and nodded us enough Tor his wife to see that her nose had t failed her. The two Are Long Lime collaborators working together since the ale 60s. When Marcella 62, began collecting recipes Lor her first Book the classic italian Cook Book. She does Iho cooking the recipe jesting the writing. He does the sampling the translating although she Speaks English she prefers to write in Lallian and the worrying about business details. The first both was allowed by a second More classic nation cooking and together they sold several Hundred thousand copies in the United states far belter than most cookbooks according to her . Publishers. Alfred a. Knopf. In Britain the first Book became publisher Macmillan s top Selling paperback Cookbook and the second also did very Well a Macmillan spokesman said. Ironically in was an interest in chinese food hat got Hazan into the professional cooking business Back in 1969 i went to a chinese cooking school because i love chinese food and wanted to know How in was  she said in the simple but elegant 16th Century Palazzo apartment where they live when they Are not in new York. Six ladies Al Iho school asked me what i was cooking at Homo the next Day Thoy asked if i would like to give a class. They put to thing tog Cher and so i started and alter that i was asked to write the Book. Ii was like a  the joke got serious when hew to pc times food expert Craig Claiborne sampled her cooking at a lunch in the Hazan now York Home Aller he wrote a Long and favourable Story about her she was besieged by people wanting la tiny her Book and take cooking classes her husband recalled. Her third and my last Book she vowed is duo Oul in mid october. Titled Marcella s Kalian Kitchen the Book is More personal than her earlier works. I feel that this Book is More mine she said settling Inlo a Brick coloured Couch in her beamed ceiling living room. It s More than just talking about Lallian Ood. In s Wotal i Ihrk about italian food. There s also More Aboul me in the Book me in the House where we live now in the vegetable Market the ish Market. And i talk a lot about taste. What is taste in italian food i keep bringing Oul that taste in italian food is very important because we Don t take too much time for appearance. You can see it in restaurants As Long As it s not a restaurant that is doing the Nouvelle cuisine which we Seldom see in Italy. Italians Don t make a dish pretty they re always just thinking about  her husband elaborated. Italian cooking is so popular throughout he world now but what we often find when we eat in italian restaurants outside of Italy or in Homes of people who do Lallian food a that somehow they Haven t caught that real italian accent he said. It s just As though they d Learned a language out of a Book teamed the Way the words look but Haven t really got an ear for in. So that s what Marc Effa is trying to do in her new Book put together All the elements so people can try to learn italian cooking As if they were trying to speak a language fluently. She broke these elements up into ingredients and techniques and most of All in recipes that represent the fresh spontaneous flavor thai is really typical of Lallian  few recipes in the new Book Are Lancy or elaborate she said. Many Are More simple than those in her earlier books. But she said the simplicity was based More on personal likes than on any a Templ to Cater to the growing numbers of women who work outside the Home and want to produce Good meals with a minimum Effort. I m trying to bring out the natural flavor of the ingredients Wilhour covering anything up without changing anything she said. You Don t really improve food the More you do to it. And i think in s very Nice to go into the Kitchen and do a meal in a Short time a meal that is a Good meal keeping in mind always thai in is supposed to taste  r american undemanding and appreciation of italian Lood have coma a Long Way in the last two decades when people thought it was All heavy Tomato and garlic sauces lha cooked and cooked few hours she said. Today she said americans have heard of Parmigiano or Gorgonzola cheese and can buy once unknown ingredients fresh Radichio the tart red Chicory native to Treviso near Venice pinocchio the Sweet Anise Flavoured variety of fennel Funghi porch or woodsy Flavoured dark Brown mushrooms or arborio Rice whose plump Pearly grains Are required for risotto. One thing i Admire about americans is their openness and curiosity about  she said. Italian chauvinism about their National cuisine is legendary. Ask an italian just Back from Paris How he enjoyed the trip and me answer inevitably skewers the French Tor not being Able to prepare a decent meal. Macella is Well acquainted with american curiosity about italian cooking Tram the classes she teaches in new York and Italy. Although outside of cooking exp urls she is not particularly Well known in her native country Bologna s tourist Beard knew she could draw plenty of americans to Italy. City tourism officials funded construction of a leaching Kitchen she and Victor designed for lha City s hotel Milano Excelsior. She has been teaching americans to Cook there since 1976. Next year she plans Only to manage the school and Lei her son Giulia fio. 27, and two italian colleagues teach the classes. Actor Burt Lancaster was among this year s students who paid the $ 1,900 Lee Lor a week of classes and a week at the hotel in Bologna. Although most 60 percent Are americans others have come from new zealand Kenya India. Scandinavia or South Africa. The youngest to take her Bologna course was 17, the oldest 66. And they come from varied backgrounds. I can have people who have Nover peeled a potato in their lives or i can have a cooking teacher she said. Lately we have More and More men sometimes a restaurant owner but usually they Are painters Bankers surgeons or  she will continue to Leach Thiee one week courses in her own Home in Venice to Liny groups of six. A week of those classes Cost s 1,200. Students warned in Advance that they must be Able to climb the stairs to her attic apartment because the Palazzo has no elevator won t just gel a list of recipes. I Don t think they travel so far Juat to get a  she said. The recipe is just a starting Point. The first Day they go to the Market with me to see the produce. Then we go to a restaurant arid then we Start the live lessons. I also try to teach about techniques How to clean an Artichoke for Many different recipes and about How ingredients Are supposed to taste. Maybe in America it s very hard to gel a Good Gorgonzola so we buy some Here and they learn what it s supposed to taste  i Kaep talking All the Lime and i think that s Why i m losing the voice she said in her soft deep voice made deeper by the cigarettes she constantly smokes. Unable to shout she gets Hor class s attention by blowing on a whistle she wears about her neck. Students like the constant flow of guests Al her Home Walch her Cook at the big restaurant Model stove in Iho Middle of her Kitchen an off White room accented by the massive natural Wood beams that hold up the Palazzo s roof. Counter Ops Are highly polished slabs of speckled sicilian Granite which neither slain nor scuff and her Battery of pots and pans hang on a nearby Wall. A Small signed photo of the late James Beard one of America s Best known Cooks hangs on another Wall. Beyond the Kitchen is a spotless Terrace of Terra Cotta tiles and stucco Walls where students or guests can eat what Marcalla has prepared. Sitting on the Terrace wailing Tor a fresh Tomato sauce to Cook Down she has to think before she can come up Wilh anything she does t like about cooking. Maybe peeling  Fie said. When he skin Jual refuses Loco me off step by step by Pierre Franey the Appeal of artichokes luring dimmer i often Irve Learned Truh Art chokes with Lemon Butler a pet lots. They lire easy i to nuke Light and Nutini Puj. Choose artichokes that Are symmetric by shaped and without discoloration on the leaves. Fresh artichokes ire to Good they probably could tie toned in a Steamer any old Way and come out ruling Dell dons the Lulu Wing technique which has Lemony Jup adds visual Appeal u Well As Luxor to the finished product. O Cut on the item to tace but of the a Mcluke Mph whup knt i Ite Vlf Oil � out u Omi i Mew inn Hie Bottom Rattli Batum Mill team u do Kolonus. By the in anti a in tide in oof in Linen i of the top Lotta. Luttot to Thea it Hui. Wall noun us it Khutor Tram top to Bottom. Atm Milf ibo of Quair incur Rydh lop of weft Tot u a Ernest to rip us Tancun up. Page 14 the stars and stripes Friday