European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 20, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Fashion trends for american men by Anne Marie Schiro new York times hat will Iho fashionable Man in the United Stales he wearing in 1987? a visit 10 Iho designers collective in new York gave a Good indication oversize sweaters in graphic pall rns unstructured jackets no relies in 19505 patterns colourful socks and Loa lors designers irom All Over the country As Well As pacesetters in  s fashion irom abroad such As Germany and Italy Lake part in Iho collective show. The common denominator is Irta those designers All have an individual Point of View and a Strong Lachion image although some of them show tailored suits. Ino styles by and Largo including those irom overseas an aimed at american men with in freewheeling Altitude toward dross Rathe than a buttoned Down Corporale approach these men Are Likely to Wear impeccably Cut cartels Over Cashmere Poto shirts or silk to Shirls or 1o dispense Vilh jockeys entirely in Lavor o hand nil sweaters the collective a nol Lor Profil organi Clion of men s Wear and accessory designers was founded in 1979 wih 26 Small companies Hal sought strength through Unity the idea was to attract store buyers by making it easy for Ihm to see a variety of lines in one place. Charter members include a Wilrey Banks Andrew Fezza. Hano Barnes. Robert Slock and barfly Bricken. There Are no 81 members irom established and fairly now companies Hal participate in Prado shows twice a year the show of sprang and summer styles was hold on Ihrer doors of the Omni Park Central hotel in Man Hillan ii was attended by buyers irom nearly 2,000 specially and department stores including Charivari. Barneys new York bar Dorl Goodman Bonwit Teller. Macy s san Francisco Bullocks Wilshire Ultimo in Chicago and Neiman Marcus. One of the Strong themes running through the collections was an emphasis on Black and while often tempered with shades of Gray the alternative was Subtle combinations of beige Wilh soil pastels. Bright colors were pretty much restricted to casual sportswear with Strong graphics Robert Stock Lor example had a series of sporting motifs including baseball players golfers and Sailfish on hand knit sweaters Rona Lotus Sham ask used Brig colors for some of his jackets bul showed them Over while or dark shirts and pants mostly he preferred monochromatic neutrals his Lackous Start at about $400 retail. A Wilrey Banks combines a variety of Pate Grays and beige with touches of Pink carnelian red Black and while he has designed both a tailored group of jackets and trousers and a sportier group of sweaters and shorts in egyptian prints. His jackets Start at $250. His sweaters at $50. Andrew Fezza. Who is designing Lor his own company Lor the first Lime is concentrating on unusual fabrics in oversize shapes. One of his jackets has four buttons that go right up to the Collar which May be worn closed or folded Down to form lapels. He s used floss of Germany is increasing is emphasis an Selling in the . Market. Crinkled a abcs and a silk Broadcloth Wilh a suede Tike finish in slightly Olf tones of Mulberry Navy cinnamon and azure colors Are combined in a Gauguin inspired pattern used Lor a shirt $140 and a Cotton sweater $220 jackets Start Al about $260 Nancy Heller also concentrates on Subtle colors in simple Roomy shapes including sweatshirts in an Ultra Soll interlock Cotton and Pii lower swe Aleis with High round necks male Tricot has an extensive collodion of Cashmere knits or men and women fi.,r it t us mane bad by paunch Groen Ondof is a a. I  sweater com tiny based in fusion Flo j of Thi sweaters employ a variety a yams stitcher Virt textures in bold patterns inbred by  Black and White Wilh Gray is i lie avoid cd m combination prices snarl Al Ghoul $130 Bianculli of san Francisco a a i  of Paul Bianculli and Victor de la Rosa does hand Woven sportswear and hand loomed sweaters Many Are reversible to different patterns one Pullover Lor example has a dense Black and while design on one Side and a More open pattern on the other Side prices Start at about $200. Denise Carbonell has a Willy approach Hal ranges from oversize Black and White t shirts with graphic prints on i Hechsel to collarless Glen plaid lackeys maled to pants in a different plaid her influences come irom the 1950s and 60s, her prices Slart Al $20 Erma Bombeck to find out where humor is going sometimes you have to look Back to wherein s been. The tools of exaggeration have always worked. I remember about 10 year Sago i wrote about a much married Star and predicted her next wedding dress would be drip dry pm a big laugh. A Story recently reported a California dress designer is doing brisk business with a new line of paper  dresses. No one laughed it s no a joke anymore. It s a reality. As i read about the dresses Wilh velcro closures that Are easy o gel out of How you could do a Quick Lix Wilh scotch tape thai would hold it together for a Law hours and How you could throw it away once it had been used there seemed to be an obvious parallel to modern marriage. Maybe the impractical Satin wedding dress Wilh Trie Long train and expensive Price tag in t what a commitment is All about but it s a part of it. An important part. There s something about a traditional wedding Hal inspires traditional values and a traditional commitment. Where else would you assemble All of those witnesses who would remind you later that you promised to love this Man woman for the rest of your we and anyone who has planned a wedding within the confines of budget and taste without killing a member of the Amity has a prognosis for a Good marriage. They can handle anything. Paper. Paper is what you give on a Lisl anniversary because in s cheap and it s All you can afford paper is what you Wear for an examination and you could die irom the insecurity of it. Paper is what you fight Over a i breakfast paper is what you hang in the bathroom together and wonder Why you married one another paper is disposable diapers plates that Cave in to pressure cancelled checks expired warranties. Paper does not represent a major investment but rather a temporary measure i know. There s a Tot of symbolism being thrown around Here bul that s what marriage is All about too there in t a lot of room in t for Compromise especially in matters of morals values and what you need and expect form one another i m not hustling major weddings hero with 15 bridesmaids three truckloads of Champagne. 1b5 pounds of jumbo shrimp and a father who has to borrow on his Hie insurance to pay the Bills i guess i Iri saying you re going to need All the memories you can store my wedding dress is contained in a Small Box on the id Shell of my closet. In s yellowed it s Limp and the Waist would t begin to  one of Rny Pillsbury doughboy arms. Discard it never i need to look Al it irom time to Lime just to remember How i Tell the Day i wore it and then go out and Light Tike a Tiger to feel that Way again c 19m. Los Angola Tum Syno Calv saturday september 20. 1986 the stars and stripes Page 17