European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - December 30, 1986, Darmstadt, Hesse                                By Leonard Hill assistant heat urls editor it had to happen someone is Irving to or wet nou cello cd s nop Aii of that i Omooney 15 Anto Mosimann innovative Ai Iii acetal no of London s most  hotels who knows or May succeed Mosimann is the Selt slyly a guru of  he Calls cubist Foo nature Lac. A cooking technique that uses no Cream no Buller no Oil. No alcohol and a minimum of added sugar and sail in to hands of a Novice this might be a recipe Lor blandness bul Mosimann also happens to be a master of l be taste. At 38, to has celebrated 10 years at the Dorchester by summing up his approach to cooking in a new Book of recipes titled naturally cuisine a Atrielle haul cusine May never to the same again. Moil Monn has taken the essentials of cuisine Man eur and nou voila cuisine which emphasize lightness and emended them through a new culinary Frontier basically houses Only fresh natural ingredients almost entirely lice of cholesterol the Obj sect is twofold la produce Lood thai really tastes Tike what l is and at the same Lime is As healthful As possible. Sitting in his Liny six place private dining room just of the main Kuchen in the hotel s basement the Prophet of cuisine Nal Urelle explains he has not Only gone through a Tot of experimenting in the Kitchen there was also a lot of soul searching Belore be finally decided on his formula i had sleepless nights wondering if i could really produce every dish i wanted la without using Buller and Cream Lor instance but i finally decided they had to go in to wore to produce truly healthy food i have always believed in food being Good Lor people but i also know there Are people dying of Hearl disease aided by cholesterol Mosimann decided to go All out and exclude As Many ingredients As possible Hal could have harmful effects. Whal was Iho most difficult ingredient to do without Oil. I think Oil is used in so much cooking and in salads As Well this presented  at or careful experiments however Mosimann discovered there were ways to do without Oil Moats and fish arc sauteed very gently in their own juices or a lamed vegetables Are gently blanched and a let of Loorz is schved raw. Sometimes manna led sometimes sliced exquisitely Ihm salad dressings Are made irom reduced Stock butter and Cream Are replaced by fat free yoghurt or Iroma Oblanc Mosimann s meals arc As mouthwatering As they Are Good for you and he carries his Allenton to detail to Tho Proso Lalion of his dishes Ench is designed not Only to taste Good bul to took Good. This is a outgrowth of the Zigmal Nouv Etlo cuisine con Cpl which again Mosimann has carried to a logical conclusion to has had plates specially designed Closuit various meals. Their Geometric Black White and Brown patterns sol of i and enhance the Beauty of the food Anton Mosimann doing what comes naturally Anton Hoffmann la the guru of cuisine Nat Urelle a cooking technique which uses no Cream no Butler no Oil no alcohol and a minimum of sugar and Salt above turbot souttl6 with crayfish. Mosimann is Swiss a third generation Che he has Al died with such great names As Paul Bouse. The Tro Igros Brothers and Michel Guerard but was inspired primarily by asian rather than by French cuisine he belies to image of the fad Lional chef he is trim Allelic and even tempered. In tact he was a Swiss National wrestling Champion before to decided to give up an athletic career Lor the Kitchen. Now Mosimann jogs through a London Park Early each morning and Ollen plays Squash in his Alvernoon break Mosimann rejects any suspicion that cuisine Nal Urelle is designed to Cash in on the emphasis on exercise and health in the american Lites Lyle i try to make Tood waste of what it is and not something else Nouvelle cuisine chefs have tended to use a lol of alcohol in their recipes. I have eliminated it not for health reasons the alcohol evaporates in the cooking anyway but because in masks the True flavors of  one common perception about Nouvelle cuisine has been that it is a pre Lellious Way to charge a lot of Money for very Little food not True retorts Mosimann. More and More people especially in Europe Are asking for less on their plates. These changes in tastes have taken place both among chefs and among their customers. There is More awareness on the part of the customers. There is mire love and care on our part in the  Mosimann sees Many reasons for this gradual change of taste Over Iho last id to 20 years. He believes the growth of International travel has widened people s culinary perception and knowledge they Are bettor educated about food Ihan they used to be less Likely to accept something second rate. On the Kitchen Side of the business Mosimann says there is now Pride in Fine cooking and new prestige in the profession. To has about 70 chefs working for him at the Dorchester Wilh a backlog of 700 applicants hoping or 0bs on his team. The Terrace one of the hold s two is Tarrants is the Birthplace of cuisine nature fee ii boasts iwo stars in guide Michel. Fame does t seem to have changed Mosimann s modest nature his idea of a vacation is to work a Lew Days in the Kitchen of another master chd. For Anton Mosimann there s always something new to team. Tuesday december 30, 1986 the stars and stripes Page 17