European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 5, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse Bab Bou feud is the Gale leading into the old City of Fez. Poverty and friendliness. Hustling is ingrained into moroccan culture and Success at in is viewed As a Virl be by Many people. I i is taken lightly in Medina and hotel alike and tourists arc generally left to fend for themselves. Stoic silence rarely works hustlers Ore diligent and will lag along until you a Spund replying in gibberish will probably bring unwanted and embarrassing ridicule. The Best strategy is to reply confidently if not honestly to their enl reality a whatever they recommend you we you be already seen it. Even if you be been in town three minutes say it s been three Days. If they us want to their English you d love to help but you have a no Etling in five minutes. In most situations you re belter off without a guide official or unofficial. An orientation visit to i lie Medina and souks of Marrakesh and Fez Are 1 he Only times you should need an official guide. Unofficial guides Are illegal often incompetent and More often dishonest. An official guide from the tourist Bureau will be safer and Jiro baby More informative. In any Case set the Price and itinerary beforehand and Don t buy anything in the presence of the guide they always a of Turnr Rushins pm your purchases. I i for moroccan hustlers is a bit like preparing fur Kittle Bill in is always a Relief to fill e and survive a tour first encounter. In is a Yam of tactics anal an i by one fur travellers to win. After a link1 expert it to you May even Grovv to appreciate their finesse my your Suci Eis in nol Kuulii mini. I a. Magic of Marrakesh ivc be Riding Dan t i r Crosby still Mil , in ii wily and to Many people Morocco is . A visit there is the culmination of All Morin t an a Penen is thu i Del Anellier squatting Wilh others to hear a Story avoiding having a cobra draped around your neck and bargaining for an elegant berber carpet. You tire of the Bustle and retire for a mint Tea on the Terrace of the cafe de France Bui the sounds and sights lure you Bilck again and again. Directly off the Dema you la find the souks surpassing All others in Morocco ii is spicy in the souks inf Cool my colourful. The Imell always pleasant a Tanga or flu Illy or lilt the furore of the Mercle Nidie. There Are no names or signs there is no glass., you find but you always find it Many times Over. Elias Canetti the voices of Marrakesh the main Street of the souks is a Busy All of 0 feel wide. Off of it Branch hit alleys Anil squares devoted in specific crafts. This ii the place in bargain for carpets leather goods Poller cosmetics and jewelry. But it s Greal jus to wander following your senses without fear of becoming loss a buy can always Lead Yuu out for 1 dirham in cents. In a country Rich with historical so rho Marrakech has surprisingly few. The Dema i l i in and souks Are living his try. Residing Over tile Dema however is the Kouloubis mosque and its lowering minaret Buill in the 12lh Century the minaret is visible for Miles on a . A View from the Oul Sirk is All you gel Loo because non moslem Carnol enter. The Only Colht r is he is the Ben yous of miss ii Anil Iii Wilress. The mos Rue is closed to non moslem but the Indre , Liotis Insi jul into is Arnii i Lif Jun and . Of Tiresias Are student tulle Ijes where the . Islam s Idle is san lied. To sane Ielli no to the of " prayer live limes Laily tin in men a Chi .1 religious Levy Ami the that there is no my hut god and Mohammed is Hist in Liliet munitions Lullo a the most stringent i . F . Hits tour should always big fi�lt4i\ved by a trip Lii ii k to the do com in my tans Ellen head straight hmm peaceful i tin Dpi , Noain Nirol i in e a Marl i Kish visit Turtil few ii Lairn 1 have capture of ill Leel. Fry Peter Magre s Piwin ,. Michener s Jylli or Cine Ali s Tiit i no . Alive tit gel there. I a. It s a Deal imagine1 bargaining fur i he Pike of a i . Riboul offering,1 a k of Marlboro s for a Silver Bracelet in Morroto you bargain for everything Morocco is Pae Kerl with Jure Hase possibilities and i lie Art of bargaining for limits makes souvenirs even More memorable. Especially worthy Are berber carpels Wood marquetry pottery Leal her and jewelry. I races fur everything vary widely and Rua Lily is Tough Loga Uku. A Good place la get a feel for tin Market i5 Llie slide non centres Arlin Iii in Many Clolk s. Onre you have in dim of what you jilt the souks. Souks in .1 part of lift for moroccans Mil they frequent Herti for their Basic needs. Souks an1 found in every town and Are usually ,1 labyrinth of Small streets and alleys. The ones in Civ and Marrakesh ire larger than Many towns. Easy in become lost in the Nwe but any Small boy or shopkeeper will gel you Back on for a Dirani or two about 25 cents. Never go shopping with .1 guide. Any Purchase you make will include ,1 commission to in Given to the guide later. Bargaining in Morocco is caper i d and the Price quoted meaningless. The question ish half How much will Neftin lie Urc eled with one Hundred How much will you pity then the fun begins. Them Are no set rules for i lie first of fit. Many guidebooks say one third of the asking Price but i his can be ridiculously Low or High. Never make an offer you Aren t willing to pay. You la frequently i ridiculed for offering to link Hul that s just part of the ritual. The trick is to appear uninterested in your desired item by looking at something else or even leaving. You la often do Heller by i Igar Elev american to shirts Ami do Well. If h s .1 Large Purchase it Muld like an hour or so a a Simili d View Tif True Mort in i k ii l y. , even if just Hir of Neil by incl Ruluf in Mil Morocco is the Besl Hel for Ihme tin a Tii he Hadsel. Paul Bowles in aint Riim Livins in Tangier has published some Emellen ii lion Ghoul Morotn or to rend his Bluff before k by Hue ii use it s Allrn conf scaled once Lowre. The moroccan Tiu risk of Lue 1 1 task st., new York . In i7 will i provide Juji neral information and Ianswer specific Muesli ring. Getting there Koyal air Ramla and tap air make frequent flights but a tru Trist package 111.it Ini in los flight i he tier bet. Overly air Inis or thumb is the least a opt Iii Ivy nil inns i . A nuni Lier of Iii Willu i ind incur Kiges fur , like Munu Hill ,1 is Hulsi Einn Eek tar i in �70including Ali he. Hitler All Cal rinse fees Mil Anil to in ii irl Ili Nii it to re in i Hillel in h Nili to Hir 76i $5, Jujic la la Dolfl Mil Ili let. I of people 1�.i\ Velill i i Ltd a t .111 i Hotl s Luj Lur .1 nne. Week Ely drive Ilinor. Hult la not Iru lured once Thorn Lii tin i m i Allenl Lime isl Otrin Slier Chihil splits. I\n1ek. In be Whir own io1elet. Anal senses. I -i1 Mort i ins fit As Alkih so 1.s. March a 1987 for pct Magazine
