European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - June 14, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Two greek islands Back in time by Henr Kamm new York times places that have seen their Days of glory but still Bear themselves with the dignity of dowager Are often among the most rewarding for travellers however Prim and staid the Yotter an adventure in time a plunge Mio the nol quite past. A stroll through a present that no longer looks toward a future they Are a melancholy reminder of life s trans tonness but offer the Consolation of enduring Grace. Such a place is Hermo Polis. Capital of the Island of syros in the Cyclades an anomaly in Greece s most visited Island group it has the most important Harbor in the islands the place where almost All the Boals irom Piraeus Slop on their Way to such celebrities As my Konos san torn or  but hardly any of the Island hoppers hop Oil they Are missing More than they might think because Unsung Hermo Polis is a Beauty. Twin conical peaks  s opes descend to it Harbor dominate the mow that greets the visitor ire slopes Are densely built up and each is crowned by a Church the Southern Peak at the left of the Harbor As you arrive is topped by the roman Catholic Cathedral of St George the Church on the Northern Hill is the greek orthodox St Dimianos the houses on top of the Hills gleam with Whitewash and bold Blue trim the characteristic hues of Cyc Ladic architecture. But As the town descends toward the Aegean sea White turns to a palette of pastels Pale tans pinks greens and blues the shades of the Urban architecture of 19th-Century Greece. Following inn overthrow of ottoman Rule the newly Independent nation devised a style that combined Neo classical forms with the Llali Nate colors dear to the Bavaria irom which Greece imported its Kings German and italian architects played a major role in building the City. Hermo Polis oilers in juxtaposition Beautiful examples of the two memorable styles the Only place in Greece to do so around the Catholic Cathedral is nestled the traditional Cyc Ladic Village Olano syros. The lower  of Hermo Polis is a remarkable collection of the no classicism of the Post Independence years expressed in private mansions churches and Public buildings the mixture is a reflection of the Island s Odd history which sets it apart from the rest of the Cyclades Hern Opolis is the group s prefecture of seat of government to Nan catholicism which followed in the loot Stop of the crusaders in the 13th Century took stronger hold in syros than on the other islands reinforced by settlers irom Genoa and Venice and the arrival of Jesuit gleaming houses of Hermo Polis descend toward the Aegean sea in this greek Beauty spot and Capuchin missionaries. Syros became known As the Pope s Island in this almost uniformly orthodox nation its importance As a major International trading port in the Eastern Mediterranean and the presence of French missionaries gave France a special interest in Byros and provided the Island with a special measure of outside Protection under ottoman moslem Rule syros remained Neutral under effective French guarantee during the War of Independence paradoxically this spelled the end of the Catholic domination that France wanted to safeguard but it made syros the economic capital of the new nation today orthodox christians outnumber catholics in the Island s population of about 20,000 the serenity of syros attracted thousands of refugees irom other islands and the coastal  of Asia minor which were devastated by turkish reprisals against the greek uprising mainly merchants and manufacturers the newcomers brought their capital and their businesses their cultural taste and then ambitions around the Favin the 1820s. They built a no.-, City and named ,1 Hermo Polis. The City of Hermes protector of travellers and Commerce they wanted a City that showed by its substance and sophistication that despite centuries of moslem domination greeks were part of Western civilisation they built one that was second Only to Athens in grandeur and first among greek cities As a seaport and Page 14 the stars and stripes Center of Industry and Commerce the economic Boom of Hermo Polis did not outlive the 19th Century. With the building of railroads Mainland cities especially  flourished to the detriment of the Island town. Today even its shipyard the principal survivor of the Boom Days is in danger of closing and Little manufacturing is done. In a country that produces great numbers of architects but Little evidence of their work a country whose dominant modern style appears to Many greeks and visitors to be the absence of style it is a rare pleasure to wander about a town of unified and distinctive architecture. Classical Harmony was prize by the builders and so were Marble and meticulous masonry and stucco decorations arched winds wrought Iron balconies and columned arcades Arv porticoes remain common features  main Square. Latcia Miaoulis. Is the image of the Urban vision of the founding lathers it is Large enough to do Honor to a Metropolis and paved in Marble imported irom other islands or the Mainland the Square is Domma de by the town Hall an elegant three Story Uji Ldina with a monumental Central stairway leading to a columned Entrance topped by a stately Loggia two internal courtyards Are surrounded by two Levels of area. De walkways the town Hall is the work of Ernst Ziller a bavarian architect who do signed Many buildings in Athens. Sunday jul