European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - September 10, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Food by Sharon hudg1ns special to stripes ski gazing i Caldoni order dessert in italian restaurants. After con Susnir a mixed Insp it i Platter heavy pm the ii list Oil Fli cd by homemade pasta covered with in int Thiim sauce and then perhaps veal  Wilh fresh spinach on the Side. Well there just in l any mom left fur one of i Hose creamy italian desserts. Most italian restaurants Don t put much emphasis on desserts anyway. The list of it Otic sweets on the menu  contains Only three or four items int Lute ing in  one nondescript commercially made Frozen concoction that ranks As Low on the taste Scalp As a fail food Milkshake at one of my favorite italian restaurants however i noticed the word , on the Short dessert list. When i asked the waiter Elvit it Gliane was he replied eggs sugar and Marsala. Try it you la like  it Youndt d Good so i took the waiter s a or Ami edition. My husband asked Only for an espresso. I waited and waited for this Zagaglione to be served. My husband finished his after dinner Coffee and was thinking about ordering another just to keep me company. Still in Zagaglione. Over the Standard noises of the restaurant we could hear a loud and vigorous scraping sound  the Kitchen. I thought perhaps some disaster had occurred Back there causing my dessert in ire delayed. Only later did i learn that scraping noise was the sound of Zaba Tione being made. It s been several years since i discovered  at that restaurant and at least until i encountered  us  became my favorite italian Dossell. I certainly Don t mind waiting those extra few minutes for the Zagaglione to be made fresh is in always should be. But i usually prefer to make in at Home to eat after a Light meal in the summer or As a snack on a cold a Linler night. Only a real trencher an could truly enjoy .1 Large howl of a Baglioni after consuming a three or four course italian meal. Riib in bronc has been variously described As a whipped wine custard a sort of Cream mousse and an airy fairy refinement of egg  made from eggs sugar and Marsala wine classic Zagaglione is a warm Foamy Rich boo a dessert that s Well Laved thru Ghoul Italy. Food historians disagree on the origin of the name of this common dessert which is also spelled  and a Batione in different parts of Italy. One authority claims Ghitl a Baglioni is named after marshal Baglioni who defended Florence against invaders in the 15th Century. During a Long siege Baglioni t Cook was forced to make do with the Only ingredients still available eggs and Brandy. He invented Baglioni soup Zuppa Baglioni and the term later became shortened to Zagaglione. In inv York time food editor Crai Claiborne. Citing several authorities says that Thev world Zagaglione Means an illyrian drink from the ancient Adriatic coastal Region of Illyria. Carol Field on the other hand in her Well researched Cookbook. The italian Baker claims that Zagaglione is named Tot san Giovanni i Vaylon the Patron Saint of pastry Cooks. Whatever its origin Zagaglione is not Only popular within Italy but is also the most Well known italian dessert outside of Italy at least until the current rage for sir Ami us traditionally Zagaglione is made Only from egg Yolks sugar and Marsala a Sweet italian fortified wine similar to Madeira Sherry and port. The ingredients Are beaten together using a wire whisk beating in one direction Only Over simmering water in a double boiler. As soon As the mixture has become thick and Foamy it is poured into stemmed glasses and served immediately to be eaten with a spoon. Italians Are the sort of people known for not paying too much ital Niin to the rules however so even in Italy you la find several variations on the classic Zagaglione Iheme. Some Are made Wilh White wine Sherry or Brandy. Some Are chilled and folded together Vith whipped Cream to make an even Richer and creamier dessert. Others Are mixed with beaten egg Whites to make 1 Type of a Baglione mousse. And there s even of Itji one Genafo a favorite  ice Cream. On he other hand commercially bottled  att Nuovo Marsala Wilh egg is but a poor and Distant Cousin of True italian Zagaglione. You re much better off to Purchase a bottle of straight Marsala and make your own Zagaglione at Hume. In France the word for this egg sugar liquor mixture is Sabayon. French Sabayon is usually Marie with White wine or Champagne instead of Marsala and May contain whole eggs  egg Whites and or whipped Cream All of which make in a bit lighter than the italian version. Sometimes Sabayon is made with Sherry Brandy or Flavoured liquors and additional ingredients can include Vanilla extract cinnamon graded Orange Peitl or grated Lemon Peel. These Sweet sauces Sabayon Are often served As accompaniments to fruit desserts. And these Are even non Sweet Saga Yons made from eggs beaten until Foamy with fish meal or vegetable stocks or even with red wine and served As sauces for fish or game. Traditional italian Zagaglione pure Rich and redolent of Marsala is often served alone As a dessert. Some italian Cooks like to mix it with creamy Mascar Pone cheese and now you la even find recipes for Zagaglione Tiramisu. Alone or mixed Wilh whipped Cream Zagaglione can also be used As a filling for Sweet breads or As a Hick sauce Over sliced fruit or berries. I once ale a memorable Zagaglione that had been poured Over two Large fresh figs Cut into quarters and garnished with sprigs of fresh mint. According to Anna Muffoletto in tie Art of sicilian cooking Christmas breakfast in Sicily includes cups of warm Zagaglione served As a drink accompanied by slices of Pine Stone the festive Christmas yeast bread full of raisins and candied fruit. The sicilians also make a humorous dessert called Frozen Fried eggs consisting of thick Zagaglione Frozen in the shape of Fried egg Yolks and surrounded with whipped Cream egg  and throughout Nlaly Zagaglione is considered not Only a Good source of Energy for children but also an excellent restorative for convalescent. The lighter French sauce Sabayon is also served hot or cold As an accompaniment to fruits and berries. Last year in Dijon i ate an excellent dessert made from fresh strawberries raspberries and filled cherries covered wih Sabayon and heated in the oven until a Golden Brown crust formed on the top. In Germany i be been served very thin Apple rings dipped in tempura Bailer and Fried As Light As a Bulle Fly sprinkled Wilh cinnamon sugar and accompanied by Sabayon made Wilh White wine. Zagaglione and Sabayon Are also used As sauces for crepes souffles hot puddings fruit cakes sponge cakes and Pound cakes. I have italian friends who like 1o serve warm Zagaglione lightened Wilh beaten egg Whites As a lopping for Vanilla ice Cream. And for a really elegant ending to a meal accompany each serving of a Baglioni Sabayon Wilh a Glass of italian redo to Soave Germany Rhine or Mosel riesling spat Lese or French Champagne. Classic italian Zaba Cuoni this is my favorite version of Zagaglione and the one i be most often encountered in italian restaurants. This recipe produces a Light Foamy Zagaglione redolent of Marsala. 6 egg Yolks 6 Tablespoons sugar i cup Marsala wine put Aboul 2 inches of water in a medium size sauce pan or the Bottom of a double boiler. Set a medium Large Heatproof bowl or the top of the double boiler on top of the pan containing i he water. Check to see that the water does not touch the Bottom of the top pan. 6 i trip no Guitte Watt Mytr to 1917