European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - November 18, 1987, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Traditional tastes for thanksgiving by Craig Claiborne with Pierre Franey new York timezone May or May not least on Ham or Lamb Al easter. And a Goose or some other ton/1, at Christmas is 111 for a flip of the Coin. But the last thursday in november without Turkey is a cause Lor depression. Jasper White the celebrated 35-year-old chef owner of Jasper s restaurant in Boston Lully respects such culinary traditions and makes Turkey the local Point of his All Arne rican thanksgiving menu. As a child says White. We always had a Turkey of course along with mashed potatoes and various greens plus Cranberry sauce and two or three pies. Besides that my Mother would almost always have on hand a couple of game Birds. My father was a great Hunter. For us. Thanksgiving dinner was not so much a meal As an eating  White s menu is proo of that ii is built around a. Cornucopia of Yankee foods. A Tot of these foods Cou l quite Well have been cooked Lor the first thanksgiving least More than 300 years ago says while. Many of the Boston chefs thanksgiving recipes have a historical basis for example As he Points out succotash is probably the most universally accepted or All Indian dishes. It is made with the iwo most common ingredients to be found in the new world Corn and Beans. Shell Beans incidentally Are also known As Cranberry Beans or horticultural Beans and Are still readily available in Many new England  while starts his thanksgiving meal win oysters served with a highly americanized version of what the French Ca a Mignonette sauce. It usually is made with red wine vinegar but Whsle has created a sauce made of Apple cider vinegar ninety diced tart apples and shallots along with the traditional cracked Black Peppercorns. Chel White prepare an unusual uncommonly tasty Cranberry relish Flavoured with Orange and Ginger and a delicate folded Steamer Boston Brown bread. The latter is made in a pudding Mold but it could be baked effectively in an empty one Pound Coffee tin. To my Surprise one of the finest and most interesting of the entries on the Day s menu was Jasper while s roasted Bird. When i was thinking about this year s menu he says. I pulled Down a copy Oul of curiosity of the original Fannie Farmer Cookbook first published in 1896 she wrote of a technique i had never heard of you blend Butler and tour and literally Massage the skin of the Lurkey of several minutes you let i stand for half an hour or so outside the oven and Ihen roast it at a fairly High temperature for about 40 minutes. You turn the oven Doivan and continue baking Basting occasionally with melted Butler for about an hour and a half the Turkey comes of of the oven cooked to a turn and wifi the Mois lest tenderest meat you can imagine " with the Turkey he serves a baking pan full of a bread sausage and Sage stuffing. The main course is followed by a cheese course and Ihen his fated pumpkin Creme Brulee. This thanksgiving says White he will Dine at Homo with his wife and family i Hope to a my wife into doing a lol of the cooking. She s a pretty Good Cook in her own  roast Young Turkey with Giblet Gravy 111 to 13-Pound Turkey 1 Large Lemon 1 Imah Apple about 3 ounce cored and Stem removed 1 clip Parsley coarsely chopped and loosely packed 1 cup coarsely chopped onion 4 Bay leaves broken into quarters 10 sprigs Ireth thyme or 1 Teaspoon dried Linely chopped i cup com Peanut or vegetable Oil Salt to taste h desired prettily ground Pepper to taste 1z Tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature 10 Tablespoons flour 2 Teaspoons water 3 cup Turkey Broth made with Turkey neck and Wing tips or use an equal amount of fresh or canned Chicken Broth 1 Turkey heart 1 Turkey Gizzard 1 finely chopped hard cooked egg Cul o f the Wing tips of the Turkey set aside Lor Broth or soup. Cut the Lemon Lengthwise in halt and Cut each Hall crosswise into Quarter Inch thick slices. Cut the Apple Lengthwise in half. Cul each half crosswise into Quarter Inch thick slices. In a mixing bowl Combine the Lemon Apple Parsley. Onion Bay leaves thyme and Oil and blend Well. Sprinkle the Lurkey inside and Oul with Salt and a generous grinding of Pepper. Fill the cavity of the Turkey with the Lemon and Apple mixture. Flex the thighs and Wing joints of the Turkey. Truss or tie the Lurkey with siring. Blend four Tablespoons of the butter and four Tablespoons of the flour with the fingers. Rub the Turkey All Over with the Buker four mixture massaging it thoroughly Lor several minutes. Sprinkle the Bottom of a shallow roasting pan with the remaining six Tablespoons of flour. Place a rack inside the pan and arrange the Lurkey breast Side up on the rack. Let the Turkey sit outside the oven Lor 30 minutes preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place the Turkey in the oven and roast 15 minutes meanwhile melt the remaining eight Tablespoons of butter m a Small Saucepan and stir in the water. Basle the Turkey with the melted Bulter mixture. Reduce the oven heat to 350 degrees and continue roasting the Page 14 the stars and stripes Turkey Basting often with the butter mixture for about one hour and 40 minutes. Remove the Turkey and let rest Lor 20 minutes before carving. Bring the Lurkey or Chicken Broth to the boil and add the Lurkey heart and Gizzard. Let simmer 10 minutes. Strain reserving both the Broth and giblets finely chop the giblets and set aside. Set the strained Broth aside. As the Turkey rests skim Oil the Semi Clear liquid from the drippings in the pan. Leaving the browned flour and the particles that cling to the Bottom and sides of the pan intact. Place the pan on top of the slave end add the reserved Turkey or Chicken Broth scrape All around to dissolve the browned particles that cling to the Bottom and sides of the pan. Strain the Broth into a Saucepan and bring to the boil Lei simmer skimming the surface As necessary about 10 minutes. Add the chopped giblets and the chopped egg. Slice the Turkey and serve with the Gravy on the Side. Yield 10 or More Servings country sausage and Saoe me5swo 1 i pounds Antrim fwd French or i Tafiti bread 2 Teaspoon com Peanut or vegetable Al 1 Pound Buk sausage do not us italian taut get with seasonings such As Arrise or fennel shaped into b Pattie of More or my equal size 2 cups coarsely chopped onion 1 i cups comely chopped celery 3 cups peeled and cored Apple Cut into a Lnch cubes i cup coarsely chopped fresh Sage leaves or half the amount dried 4 eggs a Getty beaten 3 cup simmering fresh or canned Chicken Broth Sah to taste h desired freshly ground Pepper to taste 6 Tablespoons Unaa Ted butter preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cul the untrimmed bread into one Inch cubes. There should be about 21 cups heat the Oil in a Skillet and add the sausage patties. Cook turning the pieces olten about eight minutes or until cooked through and browned on both sides. Remove the patties and pour of almost a a the fat from the Skillet. Cul the patties into bite size pieces. Heal the Skillet and add the onion and celery. Cook sir eng about three minutes. Ihen add tha apples. Coo. Stirring about three minutes Longe. Stir in the Sage. To a Large bowl add the cubed bread sausage pieces the Apple and Sage mixture the beaten eggs Chicken Broth sail and Pepper to taste blend Well lossing gently to moisten without making she mixture Mushy use two Tablespoons of the butter to grease a pan measuring about 18 by 12 by 2vi inches. Pour the dressing into the pan and smooth it Over. Dot with the remaining four Tablespoons of butter place in the oven and bake one hour. Yield 10 Servings wednesday. Move