European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 9, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Is Nick Amario the hotel Erb Prinz in Ettlinger near Karlsruhe has one of West Germany s most highly rated restaurants. German restaurants discovering Michelin stars among the schnitzel by Serge Schmemann new York times the paprika sauce said the luncheon guest in Munich dropping his voice an glancing around is of a thin  his companion nodded. The Rabbit is not very exciting he whispered. Such talk would normally inspire a sarcastic quip especially in a land where culinary thrills More often Are measured in bursts and schnitzel. But this time a reporter eating lunch with the critical pair Felt a tinge of conspiratorial excitement. Suppressing his naive conclusion that the food was great he glanced at the maitre d hotel who was sharing a joke by the door with two waiters. If he Only knew. Perhaps he could have guessed not Many German executives discuss the menu at length or order four courses at lunch. But nothing else in their dress or Demeanour suggested that Jochen Jentsch and Alfred Bercher were anything More than a pair of travelling salesmen stroking a wavering client or maybe milking the expense account. In reality they Are inspectors for Michelin s red guide to West Germany an annual listing of hotels and restaurants by the French tire manufacturer. The guide s stars Are often considered the single most important measure of excellence for european restaurants. Jentsch and Bercher were in the Middle of a two week inspection tour of Munich where French cuisine established its German beachhead in the 1920s in the kitchens of the celebrated Alfred Walterspiel. Munich s legendary passion for steins of Beer and boiled Weissburst has not abated to be sure but its new wealth and old love of High living have kept the City at the forefront of West Germany s growing appetite for Fine food. The Michelin inspection underscored just How Well and quickly that appetite has been sated. It was there in 1979 that the austrian chef Eckard Witzigmann a disciple of Walterspiel and of Paul Bouse of France created the country s first three Star restaurant aubergine where he still presides. Witzigmann s arrival in Munich in 1972, sponsored by a businessman who Felt that the City should have a Fine restaurant for the olympic games that year is regarded by Many As Day 1 of West Germany s postwar culinary reawakening. That restaurant tantric Rose to two stars before Witzigmann left to Start aubergine. Later tantric also won a third Star. Of several meals with the Michelin men the four course feast at aubergine was the Only one during which both closed their eyes and moaned softly with pleasure Jentsch Over Ravioli stuffed with fresh morels served on a bed of hop sprouts Bercher Over Fried Goose liver with truffles served Over marinated string Beans. At the end having found no flaw they introduced themselves to Witzigmann. For a moment his smile froze. Anything wrong he asked. No the inspectors quickly reassured him. It is not unusual for inspectors to disclose their identities they later explained. The Only time they go into deep cover is when stars Are at stake. Then the inspectors hide their purpose even asking a reporter that the restaurants names not be published. But most of their visits whether to hotels or restaurants Are made to insure that the information about amenities and prices cited in the guide Are up to Date. In these cases the inspectors announce themselves they presume that the six or seven years Likely to pass Between visits under the routine rotation of Michelin inspections is sufficient to erase the memory of their faces. Witzigmann however seemed to inspire a special Awe the inspectors admitted that they were sampling his cooking less to judge than to be reminded of the standards by which to judge others. Witzigmann s Success has inspired considerable movement in West Germany s culinary world Over the past 15 years the inspectors said. The 1966 Michelin guide listed 66 one Star restaurants there were no two or three Star establishments. By 1976 there were 169 restaurants with one Star and 7 with two stars. Today 180 West German restaurants boast a Michelin Star nine have two stars and four have three. At the same time italian French greek and other european restaurants of All sizes and Quality have proliferated further broadening West Germany s culinary horizon. The change has not been revolutionary however. For Many West germans dining out still Means lots of pork cabbage and Greasy French Fries with canned Gravy at a local Gasthaus followed by heavy pastry slathered in thick whipped Cream. Here Jentsch explained eating has always been done mainly to Stop being hungry while in France even for simple families food has always been part of the  Witzigmann while complimenting West German chefs on developing local food resources said he still imports most ingredients from France. I can sometimes get Good Pigeon Here he said but if i need 100 pigeons of guaranteed Quality i can Only get that from  not surprisingly West Germany s 193 starred restaurants Are but a dim Cluster compared with the French Constellation of 635, of which 18 Are triples. But outside the gallic world West germans can stand proud Britain and Ireland together have Only 47 stars and Italy though roughly even with the West germans in starred establishments has Only one with three stars. Jentsch and Bercher Are among eight inspectors All germans All with backgrounds in restaurants and hotels who crisscross the country by car checking and rechecking the 10,400 hotels and restaurants listed in the Michelin guide. Generally inspectors Are natives of the country in which they work in part so that they can understand National culinary traditions and customs. What makes their Job the stuff of legend and anecdote is the fact that they feed twice a Day five times a week about seven months out of each year on dishes that Many mortals taste Only on special occasions. Occasionally you need a big pork roast with dumplings Jentsch confessed. As the two inspectors described it Over a final meal at a restaurant that was a Strong candidate for a second Star the birth of a Stellar restaurant is a Long drawn out affair involving visits by separate teams. For one Star if All the results agree and we know the chef then three or four visits May be enough said Bercher a longtime Michelin inspector in his Early 40s whose credentials include experience As a waiter at a Premier London hotel. But if the results differ we wait he said. We never want to be rushed into a  for two or three stars we need a much longer period to be sure that there s a lasting Standard he said. A two Star has to be exceptional with a consistently original and exciting cuisine. Three stars has to be perfect. Everything the China the Crystal the service and of course the  the fourth and latest West German restaurant to win three stars in Schif Chen in Dusseldorf was a candidate for three years after the first Good reports reached Michelin. But inspectors returned and found that the restaurant had moved from Street level to the second floor they waited another year to see How that affected standards. Losing a Star is considerably easier. The departure of the chef is normally enough to place a three Star establishment on probation. And what of the restaurant where the Rabbit was a bit Boring and the sauce too thin an elegant place whose venerable name has been graced with a single Star through Many editions of the Michelin the place must be watched Jentsch whispered. Look at the waiters gossiping in the Corner. In a place like this they be got to be right Here when needed but Only then. Times Are changing of course. Things Are getting More casual but certain standards should be  Page 14 the stars and stripes