European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - July 13, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Gloumi by Pierre Franey new York times heard one of my favorite anecdotes about food no doubt apocryphal Many years ago when came to the United states. The Story was set around the turn of the Century when the producers of canned tuna and the producers of canned Salmon were supposed to have been engaged in a great merchandising Battle. At the time canned Salmon was far outselling canned tuna. Naturally tuna processors were dismayed. So they came up with a new marketing ploy a slogan that proclaimed our product is guaranteed not to turn red in the can i thought of this recently when i visited my local fish Market and discovered still another marketing technique for fish. The shop offered Many varieties of fresh fish including an item marked sea Trout. I pointed out to the Friend who had come with me that this fish was also known As weakfish. The employee who waited on us at the time smiled. We used to Call it weakfish he said but the sales were negligible. We decided to Call it sea Trout which is another legitimate name for it and sales in a relative sense  the name weakfish seemed to suggest to customers that the flesh of the fish was less than firm. In reality the name refers to the fragile appearance of the fish s Mouth. Whether it is sea Trout or weakfish i find it delectable because of its texture and flavor. And sea Trout is uncommonly easy to Cook if it is filleted. I favor pan frying with the skin left attached on one Side. The fillets Cook quickly taking about three minutes in a Little Oil if they Are Small. Anchovy fillets make an excellent Garnish. A first rate accompaniment to this dish would be new potatoes with butter and finely chopped Parsley. Sea Trout with anchovies and tomatoes 4 sea Trout fillets with skin left on about 11/z pounds total weight Salt to taste if desired freshly ground Black Pepper to taste 5 red Ripe Plum tomatoes about 1 Pound 4 Tablespoons Olive Oil 1 Tablespoon butter 8 Flat Anchovy fillets 2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh Basil. Sprinkle the fish with Salt and Pepper. Lightly score the skin of each fillet at half Inch intervals. Bring to a boil enough water to cover the tomatoes. Add the tomatoes remove from heat and let stand about 9 seconds. Drain and Peel the tomatoes then Cut them into Viz Inch cubes. There should be about 3 cups. Heat 1 Tablespoon of the Oil and All of the butter in a Saucepan and add the tomatoes Salt and Pepper. Cook about 10 minutes. Meanwhile heat the remaining 3 Tablespoons of Oil in a Skillet and add the fillets skin Side Down. Cook Over relatively High heat about 2 minutes on one Side. Turn the fillets Over and Cook about 1 minute longer. Arrange the fillets skin Side up on a warm serving Platter. Garnish each fillet with two Anchovy fillets crossing one Over the other. Spoon about Viz Tablespoon of the cooking Oil Over each fillet. Spoon equal portions of the tomatoes Over each fillet. Sprinkle with chopped Basil and serve. Yield 4 Servings. Parsley pot a toes 8 red waxy new potatoes about 1 Pound Salt to taste if desired 1 Tablespoon butter 1 Tablespoon finely chopped Parsley. Cut the potatoes in half Lengthwise. Strip away part of the Peel Lengthwise leaving two red strips Down the Side of each potato half. As the potatoes Are prepared drop them into cold water. Drain the potatoes and put them in a Saucepan. Add cold water to cover and Salt. Bring to a boil and Cook about 8 minutes or until tender. Drain. Add the butter to the potatoes and toss. Sprinkle with Parsley and serve. Yield 4 Servings. The curious shopper by Sonja Heinze i have been baking ammonia cookies for years. Could you help me find dry cooking or Baker s ammonia i be tried several prescription counters to no Avail. Fran Frain Chicago my pharmacist informs me that baking ammonia also known As Carbonate of ammonia ammonium Carbonate and Hartshorn is rarely kept in Stock at drugstores because hardly anyone Ever asks for it anymore. He told me that in his own experience he gets requests for baking ammonia during the Christmas holidays from elderly swedish and norwegian ladies so he stocks it in Little vials at that time. He advises that any druggist can order it at any time so be firm in your request. Irma Rombauer in Joy of cooking informs us that ammonium Carbonate is a Leavening agent and was used for years in Europe to produce Long lasting Crisp cookies and must be pounded to a Fine powder and then sifted with the dry ingredients or dissolved in a warm liquid such As water rum or wine. Substitute it for the baking powder and baking soda called for in cookie and cake recipes suggests Rombauer. Buy Only Small amounts from the drugstore As it quickly evaporates if not very tightly  As mentioned above baking ammonia is also known As Hartshorn from Horn of a Hart a male Deer. Patrick Coyle in the world encyclopedia of food explains Why in medieval times the Antlers of a Stag were reduced to powder. The powder was used to make Gelatin or because of its ammonia Content to make a Leavening agent in Quick breads. It was a precursor of modern baking  / need to know How to prepare Satt pork that i Cook with red kidney Beans. I can t seem to make the pork Rind Crisp even when i remove the cover during the last hour of baking. How can i get a Crisp hard Crunchy Rind Sherman Barber Venice Fla. I personally have never considered eating the Salt pork in a bean dish but just thought of it As a Flavouring agent to be discarded when spent. I imagine you could get the Rind Crunchy if you pan Fried the Salt pork before you added it to the Beans. I would be interested in hearing from readers on this subject. Do you eat the Salt pork do you eat just the Rind do you get it Crisp and if so How you mentioned that wheat Rice bulgur was available at a health food store. I Don t care for their bulgur. It s not Middle Eastern bulgur even though they Call it that since moving to Florida i Haven t been Able to get the real tiling. Would you have any idea where i can buy a Mary Zakarian Sarasota Fla. In the United states you can order bulgur by mail As Well As other authentic Middle Eastern foods such As Tabbouleh Fig Jam couscous Alvah and turkish Coffee along with ethnic cookbooks and cookware and even clothing and accessories for belly dancing. Send a self addressed stamped Long envelope to the following address for a Catalon Sultan s Delight inc., . Box 253-0016, Staten Island . 10314-0253. Prices Are considerably lower than in retail stores. Reader feedback Yogurt As sour Cream substitute mrs. Virginia Rohde Winnetka ill i would like to pass along a tip for using Yogurt As a substitute for sour Cream. I Purchase 32 ounces of Plain Yogurt and take a Small portion from the Bottom by spooning straight Down. Then from Day to Day i drink the whey collected and after a week or More a dense very acceptable substitute can be used for Topping baked potatoes creaming vegetables do not heat after adding or for mixing into a salad  you can also put the Yogurt in a funnel and let the whey drip out to make the product you describe known As Yogurt cheese. There is a device called really creamy funnel that you can buy which is described As having a special Micro sized mesh with an exclusive wicking system that drains the whey from the Yogurt overnight in your refrigerator. Write to general nutrition corporation 418 Wood st., Pittsburgh a. 15222, and ask for their Catalon. The device is listed at $9.99. Have a consumer related question please write to Sonja Heinze care of stars and stripes Apo 09211, . Forces. Pardon me. Got a minute thank you. Did you Ever get the feeling that the whole world is in need of a Courtesy bypass just answer when you feel comfortable. It seems impatience is rampant. Human fuses Are ignited by a single word and you Don t have to be bilingual to understand the hand signals of the person in the car behind you when your car stalls at the Light. Goodness gracious miss manners i never thought i d see the Day when movie aisles Are patrolled by trained guard dogs. Why just the thought of an usher flashing his Light in your face used to be enough to keep the town bully quiet for a week. Now in Jackson miss., a Doberman pins her on a Leash patrols a theater to keep teen age gang members under control. And on Public beaches dueling Boom boxes give new meaning to the expression Day at the  one even had to set some guidelines. Any radio tape deck television instrument or any other sound that exceeds 60 decibels is considered a violation. As a Point of reference 60 decibels is the noise level of a screaming child who does not want to come out of the water and go Home when it is still Daylight in one Hawaii City an ordinance was just passed in which a person can play Bongo Drums on the Beach Only for an hour and then must Knock it off for an hour. They had to do something As sterility by listening was causing the birthrate to fall for reasons i do not know humanity seems to be at Odds with one another. They Park in handicapped spots and feel no remorse Cut into lines have smoking and non smoking confrontations engage in disputes Over animals argue Over dogs that wet on their Trees and Over Trees that drop leaves on their property. With your permission i should like to share a Story to illustrate How far things have gone. You Are too kind. A substitute teacher in California says that abandon Hope Allye who enter Here should be written on every school door. The moment a substitute teacher enters the Campus she said whispers of sink the sub go  from then on in it s pure survival. Substitute teachers become victims of Book drops stink bombs noise spitball paper wads gum hurling verbal and physical abuse and yes even death threats. She has had to learn to fight Back. When a student yelled retire she yelled Back graduate there is help for your frustration. There s a blaster on the Market that fits on a desk or dashboard with either velcro or suction cups. You push a Button and it simulates the sound of a machine gun a laser or a nuclear bomb. Feel better you re Welcome. You have a Good Day now. C 1988nrmabombeck Page 16 the stars and stripes wednesday july 13,1988