European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - August 26, 1988, Darmstadt, Hesse                                \ \ u by Minnie Bernardino los Angeles times there is a cold War going on in the unite states. The scene an icy Battlefield of  contenders scoops bars Cones swirls mini bites of ice Cream desserts ranging from heavyweight Gelati to slimming sherbets in a wild Gamut of flavors. Still running Strong is old time american Winner Rocky Road. You cannot miss Tutti Frutti or the nostalgic colors of neapolitan. Current raves like cookies and Cream and Frozen Yogurt doll oped with All sorts of nuts and berries will Likely get loud cheers. And just stepping into the rink Are Brassica eos Beer would you believe Root Beer and horseradish and the palate boggling flavors of pumpkin Licorie. Who could be in line for the big chill almost any ice Cream fan. Vice president George Bush will take a lick of Vanilla anytime particularly when looped with butterscotch sauce while democratic presidential nominee Michael Dukakis casts his vote for mocha ice Cream. Counselor Ann Landers and dear Abby both want their pralines n Cream. And joining new yorkers in their passion for Coffee ice Cream Are Olivia de Havilland and Princeton grads Brooke Shields and Malcolm Forbes. The obsession for icy treats is global with the United states scooping up its share along with other countries known for their special love of ice Cream such As Italy new zealand Australia Canada and Sweden. A More serious ongoing Frozen dessert Competition resulted from the Battle of the bulges. Fighting to become the calorie watcher s addiction Are the wide selection of Low calorie treats now available ranging from Tofu or soybean based ices Frozen fruit yogurts to the skin Niest Citrus vegetable or herbal sorbets. Trying to become As decadent As their heavyweight counterparts Premium ice creams that contain 15 percent to 20 percent Mil fat Are the new Breed of Light Dairy desserts in the United states. These contain about 7 percent Mil fat at least 40 percent less fat than ice creams but Are slightly creamier than ice milks which contain a minimum of 2 percent Mil fat. Last june 29, Public voice for food and health policy a National consumer research education and advocacy organization based in Washington petitioned the food and drug administration to create a new Standard for Lite ice Cream urging them to allow manufacturers to use that name in place of ice milk. Some of the products competing in this Light Dairy dessert category Are Low Lite n luscious from Baskin Robbins Jersey maid old fashioned natural Light dreyers grand Light and Lite from Pierre s French ice Cream co. In a recent Blind tasting done in the los Angeles times test Kitchen by the Londre co., which represents the Jersey maid corp., results showed that the majority of Light ice creams were accepted fairly Well with regular ice creams in Overall flavor color and texture. Creaminess for both regular and Light types was Given mixed ratings indicating uncertainty. Interestingly a popular Premium ice Cream was not Well received in general. Maximum pleasure in a miniature treat is offered by Dove International in its Rondos individually wrapped bite sized chocolate covered ice Cream bars. You Don t have to eat a lot to be satisfied says Elliot Grover marketing manager for Dove International. If Quality is not there you still have the urge to eat More. Whereas if Quality is there an innocent Little size can make you go on with your  the message of eating less is in is likewise being relayed by tiny fruit shaped ice creams from St. Claire ice Cream fruits South Norwalk Conn. Also available As fruit sorbets the half ounce Frozen miniatures Are shaped like pears peaches strawberries and walnuts in Brilliant natural colors. And now move Over Frozen Yogurt creamy Frozen fruit whip has arrived. Called Vitari the product looks and tastes like soft serve ice Cream but is made of 99 percent fruit and fruit juices with 1 percent vegetable stabilizers and no added sugar. Containing Only 20 calories per fluid ounce a Cone serving of Vitari soft serve As i discovered was surprisingly satisfying. The most winning Way of indulging in guilt free desserts is of course to make your own. Not Only do you control the taste and the ingredients like sugar and Cream but you also bypass synthetic flavors and additives found in commercial products. The following recipes will help you indulge in your ice Cream dreams. Lisa Schwartz s Blackberry peach Brandy ice Cream 11/2 cups fresh or Frozen blackberries 2 cups diced peaches 3 medium peeled 2 eggs 1/2 cup sugar 1 7-ounce Jar marshmallow Cream 2 cups whipping Cream 1 cup half and half 1/4 cup Brandy or to taste Puree blackberries and peaches in blender or food processor. Press Puree mixture through Fine Strainer to remove seeds. Discard seeds. Beat eggs Well in bowl of electric mixer or blender. Beat in sugar and marshmallow Cream. Stir in whipping Cream half and half fruit Puree then Brandy. Cover bowl and chill to allow flavors to blend. No ice or stir mixture and remove amount needed depending on size of ice Cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer s directions. Garnish scoops with blackberries peaches and mint sprigs if desired. Makes 2 quarts. Linda Joa is new Orleans praline ice Cream 1/4 cup sugar a cup water a Teaspoon Cream of tartar 2 Large egg Yolks 3/4 cup milk 1/2 cup praline powder see recipe 2 Teaspoons Brandy 1 Teaspoon Vanilla 1 pint whipping Cream in heavy Saucepan Combine sugar water and Cream of tartar. Cook Over medium heat until syrup reaches 234 degrees on Candy thermometer about 7 to 10 minutes. Beat egg Yolks with electric mixer until Light and smooth. Gradually add hot syrup to egg Yolks beating constantly. Pour mixture Back into pan. Stir in milk then Cook Over medium heat until it forms Light custard 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in praline powder and mix Well. Pour mixture into Cool bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 1/2 hours. When ready to make ice Cream blend custard mixture Brandy Vanilla and Cream. Freeze in ice Cream maker according to manufacturer s directions. Garnish with praline Pecan halves. Makes one quart. Pecan praline % cup sugar a cup water 1/4 Teaspoon Cream of tartar 1 cup Pecan halves butter Combine sugar water and Cream of tartar in heavy Skillet. Cook Over medium heat stirring occasionally until sugar is melted and has turned Rich Golden Brown. Scatter pecans on buttered baking Sheet. Pour Caramel syrup Over pecans. Cool completely. When Caramel is hard break it up reserving few pieces Pecan halves for Garnish. To make praline powder place Small pieces in blender or food processor and grind until Fine. Makes % cup. Coco banana s homemade Cantaloupe ice Cream 1 medium Cantaloupe 31/2 Teaspoons Lemon juice 2 cups sugar 2 Large eggs 2 cups half and half 1 Teaspoon Vanilla 3 cups whipping Cream Peel and seed Cantaloupe. Place pulp in blender with Lemon juice and sugar. Blend until smooth. Set aside. Blend eggs half and half and Vanilla. Blend in Cantaloupe. Slowly fold in whipping Cream. Freeze in ice Cream maker according to manufacturer s directions. Makes about 2 quarts. Note in place of Cantaloupe use pulp of about three mangoes and omit Lemon juice. Joachim Caula s Basic Vanilla ice Cream 3 cups milk 1 cup whipping Cream 1 cup sugar 2 Teaspoons Corn syrup 1 Vanilla bean split Lengthwise 10 egg Yolks Combine milk whipping Cream a cup sugar Corn syrup and Vanilla bean in Saucepan. Bring to boil. Remove from heat and remove Vanilla. Cover pan. Beat egg Yolks with remaining 1/z cup sugar until Light. Slowly stir hot liquid into Yolk sugar mixture and Cook Over very Low heat stirring constantly until it reaches 160 degrees on Candy thermometer. Cool immediately in cold water Bath or let stand in refrigerator to Ripen 24 hours. Pour into ice Cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer s directions. Makes 11a quarts. Note recipe can be Cut in half. Chef Michael Roberts Lemon bitters sorbet 4 Teaspoons grated Lemon zest 1 cup Lemon juice 2 cups water i cup sugar a cup Light Corn syrup 11/2 Tablespoons aromatic bitters Combine Lemon zest Lemon juice water sugar Corn syrup and aromatic bitters in bowl. Pour into ice Cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer s directions. Makes about a quart. Anna Creery s chocolate Raspberry truffle ice Cream 11/z cups raspberries fresh or Frozen whole without sugar sugar 1/2 cup Raspberry liqueur 1/2 cup unsweetened baking Cocoa 1 cup milk 2 eggs 11/2 cups whipping Cream place berries in shallow bowl. Combine 3 Tablespoons sugar and liqueur and stir until sugar is dissolved. Pour Over berries and stir to mix. Cover and refrigerate. In Saucepan Combine 1/2 cup sugar and Cocoa. Stir until Well mixed. Stir in milk then whisk in eggs. Place Over medium heat. Stirring constantly Cook until slightly thickened about 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Cool and pour into ice Cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer s directions. Makes about a quart. To i 5 i m. A Page 14 Friday August 26, 1988 1 Page 15