European Stars And Stripes (Newspaper) - March 1, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Magazine by Hugh a. Mulligan associated press h punched Over his accordion in a Shade of a live Oal tree at St. Carlinville. La ,.len rvs Romero was Felting his ethnic Pride show. Cher it Don t Surprise me one Tarn bit that cajun cod is a big yeah in London Holland and  he says. The rest of the world just been a i slow in catching up with the Good things in  Lennis and his brother Opha. A virtuoso on the to Fer or Iri Angie had jus stomped out Jambalaya for some foreign French tourists who arrived  Banks or Bayou tech e in a bus marked Uri voyage Audrai pays ties acadians a trip to the real cajun country. Me of my of cajun culture has busied out of tha Bayou and gone global. Suddenly last summer crawfish Touffee and Fille Gumbo were on the menu at the Summit in Moscow. Amsterdam s hottest new restaurant is Fri eke Sluizer s cajun Louisiana Kitchen Geo end voor  London Lias two cajun style restaurants and Liberal doses of sauce piquant Are spicing up traditionally Bland British cuisine at such posh no sheries As Wilton s and the Savoy Grill ,.now busloads of european tourists led by he v French Are venturing deep info the bayous where before world War it paved roads Seldom penetrated. As Ophe conceded there was a if language. Problem at first. The Romero Brothers speak quaint French that like the meandering Bayou has been Bent out of shape in the last two centuries. But once the1. Visitors irom Paris and Lyons figured out that to was cajun or Petit and that an Alligator was neither in Caiman nor in Crocodile they were Able to. Communicate their desire to Sample Soi ipe de Cocos in. In so Martinville the spiritual capital of Majuri land the tour group posed for photos around the statue of Eva Rigeline the heroine of Longfellow s epic about the British expulsion of French Sellers irom Acadia. 01 ,. Nova Scotia in 1755. Then  old Indian cemetery they saw the grave of emmeline Labiche whose real Lite separation irom her Lover inspired the poem. Us americans cramming into the crazy horse Saloon in Paris the French contingent braved the overflow crowd at emulates the cajun nightclub in Breaux Bridge fora Ais do do literally make go to Steep the saturday night dance named for the tiny room where Small children dozed while their parents two stopped until Dawn. Cajun music Lika cajun cooking is echoing around the world Bayou artists such As tiddler Michael Douce and pianist Zachery Richard have Rabid fans in Paris Montreal Quebec Martinique. San Francisco Andraw York s Greenwich Village. Don Montoucet s cajun combo had the comrades jumping when chef John Folse from Lafitte e Landing in Donaldsonville set up a cajun restaurant at  Center at the Summit in june to Paul Prudhomme had shown up that night at emulate s. He would have been mobbed like a Young Charles Boyer for autographs by both the locals and the French pilgrims on the Trail of what their culture has brought Forth on this continent. Prudhome the first american Chet to be awarded the merits agr Cote by the French government is proprietor do a Paul s Louisiana Kitchen in new Orleans a culinary superstar on to radio and videotapes and the author of cookbooks thai have sold More than 600.000 in  is also the author of such insights or to cajun culture As 1 an aut Nehlick cajun is one who anticipates the Start of the i owlish season As much As his wedding  Good cajun cooking does t taste country it tastes grandma ". ". 1 if you Don t hover Between pleasure and pain when you eat it chances Are you Haven t made your sauce piquant hot enough " Prudhomme popularized die blackening method of sealing in the flavor of meal and Lish with intense heat As it cooked Over an open lire its ubiquitous popularity 1 has produced such menu aberrations As blackened meatloaf and blackened Meteles and has made the lowly redfish once snubbed in haute cuisine an endangered species in Texas and Louisana. Some months ago undercover agonis item the Texas Parks Arm wildlife department mounted a sting operation to foil a ring of commercial fishermen and Lood wholesalers dealing in illegally caught redfish. Dining out these Days you Don t know it that blackened menu special is the chef s Lavori Leor his latest  laughs Joe Cahn who presides Over the new Orleans school of cooking which daily instructs nearly 100 students and was the finishing school for Andre Numan Amsterdam s cajun chef cajun cooking has been around since the earliest exiles irom Nova Scotia found love at first bite of Alligator Tail meat but its delights took a White catching on beyond Tho swamps of the Alcha Lalaya when Fannio Merritt Farmer collected America s Best recipes  Boson cooking school Cookbook in 1696, the word cajun did t make the Index even today Anlo lne s in new Orleans founded m 184d, does l Mtnlion Iho word cajun units Eslen Sive menu although Creole has a Hall dozen listings fro Gombo sic Creole to pouter a la Creole. Bernard. Guste the great great grandson of founder Antoine Alciatore admits however to being a bit More heavy handed with the Pepper pol to please our Isis who expect Lousana cooking to be hot real hoi which was never the Creole style Prudhomme Points out that As Louisiana food has grown in popularity throughout the country the. Distinction Between cajun and Creole has almost  in history the distinction is clearer. Creoles Are descended from aristocratic families who fled the terrors do the retch revolutions sometimes with their chefs dressmakers and dancing masters Thoy intermarried with Louisiana s Spanish sol lifers whose cooking pots bubbled with spices and condiments from the aztecs. Incas and the Carrilean Black Cooks on Iho plantations added another dimension pc Oki anti Gumbo both african words. Creole culture was Cavalier Gallant refined its cuisine elegant Subtle Rich in sauces cajuns a corruption of Arcadia Tho name Given to Canada s maritime provinces by the explorer verrazano on first sighting their Frigm forests were victims of one of his continent s worst human Nobis atrocities originally from Normandy Brittany and Picard they Wera deported from Nova Scotia which Franca lost to. England in the War of Spanish succession the year of be grand derangement was 1975, and 0-Day was sept. 5, when entire villages were summoned to continued on Page 14 wednesday. March v1989 the stars and stripes Page 13