European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - September 10, 1989, Darmstadt, Hesse                                National geographic decaying facades along the male con the Boulevard separating Havana from the sea await restoration. Most of the City s historic buildings will undergo renovation. Restoring old Havana National geographic to most americans in has scorned a forbidden Cit for the past 30 years since Fidel Castro took control of Cuba. Americans have had Only an occasional look at the capital City of this marxist Island nation Oil Tho Florida coast no matter Joseph judge writes in National go graphic Lime has stood so still along old Havana s narrow streets through neglect by both capitalist and communist the old City within Tho Lotnick Walls has remained essentially unchanged Lor centuries a collection of colonial buildings palaces churches mansions and Humble dwellings so extraordinary that it has been named a world heritage silo by the United nations educational. Scientific and cultural organization Mote than 900 of the area s buildings Are of historical importance 144 of them Dale Iron the 16th and 17th centuries. Only 101 were built in this Century. In the past decade judge reports the cuban government has been making Earnest efforts to restore this Patrimony. Restoration has been completed on 68 buildings in the historic Center. The results to Rilos Are often dazzling of Lenny spacious views of colonial life listed with sunlit patios wide stairs magnificent rooms and be Flowers a balconies overlooking cobbled streets. Tho Plaza de armas the Zero Milestone of Havana history is still the loveliest place in town shaded by Royal  judge writes with open Villas past Castillo de Castillo de la real Muerza. Oldest begun 1558 of the Lour lords that guarded the glinting Waters of one of the new world s Best  in its Day Havana s Waters sheltered the ships of explorers and conquistadors some Laden with treasure bound Lor Spain. Hore too came enemies. French pirates and dutch men of War and Here Lay the Hulk of the battleship Maine blown up in 1898 until 1912, when in was raised dragged to sea. And sunk again. It was the Symbol of Nort americano interference in cuban a lairs. Today tankers and freighters most from the soviet Union and East Germany Parade through the narrow Entrance to the huge docks of the inner Harbor and leave behind a grime that coals the Harbor margin like a Greasy Bathtub  judge writes making in now one of the most polluted harbours in he  nearby industries also contribute to the pollution. Plans for old Havana s restoration Strelch to the year 2000. They include major restoration of the most important buildings and at least a face lift Lor others. The area already restored represents Only a fraction of an ancient town Hal is in terrible decay neglect and decline judge reports. Even though Many of the old bars Cales and restaurants Are gone the streets Are Lively with latin life. Silly thousand of Havana s 2 million people Are crowded within the old Walls. The scene is animated by 1950s Vintage chevre less and Pool macs. In its material culture judge writes Cuba is 90 Miles away and 30 years ago. At the heart of the restoration plans Are the old City s five squares. Two Are truly National geographic tourists flock to. La Bode Guita Del Medlo Ernest Hemingway s favorite haunt handsome european spaces in the americas the Plaza de armas and the Plaza de la catedral. Soldiers Are restoring old Havana s imposing forts. The huge Fortaleza do san Carlos de la Cabana which looms Over passing ships shines with fresh pain and newly pointed Brick and Slone. From there judge writes Havana Al deep of dark resembles a campfire it s a 40-Wall  ii Ever there was a melting pot in was old Havana. By 1570, according Loone estimate of the 17,550 people in Cuba 1,200 were european an equal number were Indian and the rest were Black and mixed. Spanish and Indian produced mestizos Spanish and Black mulattoes and Indian and Black Zambos. Today in. Cuba the term Mestizo refers to any ethnic mix but mostly Black and Spanish. The formidable task of restoration is As much social As architectural spaces in the old City Are crammed with longtime residents. In the foyer of the once grand House of the Marques de Arcos Bull in 1746, judge Lound whal looked like a Large packing crate with a wooden door. Ii was Home Lor Lourdes Torres and her family live people who had lived in the crate subdivided by cardboard Walls Lor years forty families had a hailed Iho building soon to be resolved and 32 were already gone. Up Iho wide Marble stairs in her two room Home Golle 74-year-old Escolaslic Ramos had been defending herself irom the torrential Rains Hal had come through the Rool. She has lived in the subdivided House of Tho marquees for 40 years. A visiting Friend observed All Havana cannot become a museum a Well decorated  Page 16 the stars and stripes sunday september 10,1989