European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - March 2, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Regg ithe real thing f by Florence fabricant new York times Parmigiano reggiano an indispensable cheese in italian cooking is commonly known in English As Parmesan. But much is often lost in the translation. In Italy there is Only one genuine Parmigiano reggiano made in a strictly limited North Central Region in the Emilia Romagna around Parma and Reggio Nelly Emilia. As the interest in italian food and pasta grows in the United states Cooks who insist on extra Virgin first pressing Olive Oil and the Best pasta should also pay attention to their Parmesan cheese. Because the name Parmesan is not protected by Law in Many countries the Parmesan cheese sold outside Italy is not necessarily italian it could be from Wisconsin Argentina Uruguay Denmark Ireland or Australia. The imitations Are far less expensive than the italian import sometimes costing Only a third As much. But with the bargain Price comes Only the vaguest resemblance in flavor and none of the texture or complexity of the original. Genuine Parmesan a which some italians say existed in roman times a is a Rich Straw color sometimes mottled with whitish flecks. It has a firm but crumbly texture a clean nut like Aroma and a flavor that is Mellow but sharpened with a Salty Edge. Well aged Parmesan has a slight crunch Ness. The easiest Way to distinguish authentic Parmesan from its imitators is by looking at the waxy looking Mustard coloured Rind where the words Parmigiano reggiano appear repeatedly in tiny dots. If a piece of cheese has already been Cut some stamping should still be visible on the Rind. Some shops in the United states also sell Grana Padang a similar but less Complex italian cheese produced under less stringent controls for the same $8 to $12 a Pound As Parmigiano reggiano. And some stores advertise Quot imported Parmesan Quot at unbelievably Low prices. Imported from where is the question. These denser Pale coloured and often harsh tasting cheeses certainly do not come from Italy nor Are they suitable for serving the Way the cheese is in Parma. In that one cheese town at the end of a meal in a restaurant or in a Home craggy nuggets of Parmigiano reggiano quarried from a massive drum Are broken into Large shards with a special pointed trowel like knife. The knife does t Cut the cheese but lets it separate naturally. Parmigiano reggiano May be slivered Over a first course Capaccio and shaved Over Gratis of asparagus or mushrooms in season. It is routinely showered freshly grated at table Side Over minestrone or plates of Tagliatelle and it is used in fillings for some pasta specialities. Italians always keep a Well wrapped chunk of it on hand in the Kitchen. As Long As it is not allowed to dry out it can last for months. Italians do not discard the rinds often adding pieces to a simmering pot of soup to enhance the flavor. But the cheese is not the Universal finishing touch for All pasta dishes the Way it might be in some american Homes and restaurants. Italians Are extremely particular when it comes to adding it to pasta. Some experts including food writer Marcella Hazan maintain that Parmesan cheese is Best with butter based pasta dishes and should not be used indiscriminately with Olive Oil sauces. Other connoisseurs who regard Parmesan As an excellent table cheese not just an ingredient in cooking Are fussy about the season preferring the somewhat deeper coloured cheeses that Are made from april to november. Lovers of Parmesan cheese agree that it should be freshly grated when used. And they denounce the grated cheese labelled Parmesan that is sold in Glass jars on supermarket shelves. There is less resemblance Between this tasteless grit and the nutty Flavoured Parmigiano reggiano than there is Between the cheapest american Quot Champagne Quot and the sparkling wine from reims or Pernay France. To s3 it it fax amp of i Iff. A.  a. J. 1i k a m t1&Quot. V so seas Aliquot Jay v a m i a in.  Quot i is so Quot ass. Of a i s. S 1 Ili Habbi / i n to amps Sharon kilday60 minute gourmet by Pierre Franey new York times the term Parmesan probably carries negative connotations for Many americans who recall Sodden Chicken Parmesan in the school cafeteria or in the local italian restaurant a Leaden veal cutlet version that could do double duty As Home plate. Most of the indigestible Parmesan style dishes have been cooked in insufficiently heated Oil which causes the meat to act As a sponge. In the recipe Here i have lightened the pork Parmesan by saut6ing it in a nonstick Skillet with just enough Oil to coat the pan. The Boneless slices of pork from the loin should be Well trimmed of fat. They Are seasoned generously with Salt and Pepper dipped in egg mixture and lightly coated with seasoned breadcrumbs which you can quickly make yourself with slightly dry or toasted bread in a food processor. Total saut6ing time is about 11 minutes. The dish is finished off in the oven with fresh Tomato sauce and slices of Mozzarella or Parmesan cheese. The Quality of the Tomato sauce is important too. This time of year when fresh Ripe tomatoes Are difficult to find in Many regions use canned rushed imported tomatoes. A tasty sauce seasoned with garlic Rosemary and any other herbs of your Choice can be made in 10 minutes. This dish requires a simple a assertive starch. One Good option is Spaghetti with Olive Oil and fresh Parsley. Breaded pork cutlets Parmesan 8 Boneless loin slices of pork 3 ounces each trimmed of excess fat Salt and freshly ground Pepper to taste 1egg 2 Tablespoons water 2 cups fresh bread crumbs 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil v/2 cups Tomato sauce see recipe 8 slices Mozzarella cheese a cup freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle the pork slices with Salt and Pepper. Put the egg and water in a shallow dish and blend thoroughly. Put the bread crumbs in another shallow dish. Dip the slices into the egg mixture to coat both sides then dredge them in the bread crumbs on both sides. Place the cutlets on a Flat surface and tap lightly with the Flat Side of a heavy knife to help the bread crumbs to adhere. Heat the Oil in a nonstick Skillet Large enough to hold the pork slices in one layer. Cover Over medium High heat about 5 minutes or until lightly browned. Turn the slices and Cook for about 5 minutes More or until browned. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 425 f. Spoon a Little Tomato sauce Over the Bottom of a Flat baking dish Large enough to hold the pork slices in one layer. Place the slices Over the sauce and add the Mozzarella slices on top. Add the remaining sauce Between the slices. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and bake until piping hot and the cheese is melted. Yield 4 Servings. Fresh Tomato sauce a pounds fresh Ripe tomatoes or 3 cups canned crushed tomatoes 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil 1 Tablespoon finely chopped garlic 1v2 Tablespoons chopped fresh Rosemary or 1 Teaspoon dried 1/8 Teaspoon red Pepper Flake Salt and freshly ground Pepper to taste. If fresh tomatoes Are used Cut away and discard the Ore. Cut the tomatoes into 1-Inch cubes. There should be about 3 cups. Heat the Oil in a Saucepan and add the garlic. Cook briefly stirring but do not Brown. Add the tomatoes. Bring to a boil and add the Rosemary Pepper flakes Salt and Pepper. Simmer about 10 minutes. Pour the mixture into a food processor or blender. Blend thoroughly. There should be about 2 cups. Return the sauce to the Saucepan and bring to a simmer. Yield about 2 cups. Spaghetti with Olive Oil and Parsley a Pound Spaghetti Salt to taste 2 Tablespoons Olive Oil 2 Tablespoons chopped italian Parsley freshly ground Pepper to taste Cook the Spaghetti in boiling salted water until Al Dente. Drain and Reserve a cup of the cooking liquid. Return the Spaghetti to the Kettle and add the Oil Parsley and reserved cooking liquid Salt and Pepper. Bring to a simmer toss Well and serve immediately. Yield 4 Servings. Page 16 a a a the stars and stripes Friday March 2,1990