European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 26, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                At right a Young visitor takes a dose look at the rocks in the courtyard Garden at the Frans Hals museum in Haarlem Netherlands. Below Street musicians perform in the downtown Market  the town that tulips built a visitor to the Frans Hals museum views a painting of Hercules by dutch artist Hendrick Golt Zius 1558-1617. By Randy Mcclain staff writer tulips have been Good to Haarlem. Founded in 1245, five Miles from the North sea and 13 Miles West of Amsterdam the City of 200,000 has grown Rich at the Center of Holland s bulb growing Region. The Light Sandy soil South and West of the City is Ideal for tulips and More than 5,000 growers Call the area Home. In return Flower Power has brought Haarlem continuous Prosperity since tulips first became fashionable in the late 16th Century. Ironically visitors to Haarlem today Are drawn More by the City s quaint canals museums and medieval Central Square than they Are by blossoms. In fact a leisurely Day in Haarlem can give tourists in the midst of a whirlwind tour of Holland s breathtaking Flower gardens something of a second wind. Most of Haarlem s important sights Are within easy walking distance of the town s Central Market. There stands the Grote Kerk also known As St. Bavo s Cathedral which dates to the late 14th Century and houses a massive pipe Organ once played by Mozart and Handel. Organ concerts Are held Between May and october on tuesday evenings and thursday afternoons. If you can t make it on either of those Days a recording of the Organ s bellowing sound can be heard on headphones set up near a Concession stand inside the Church. Don t Rush through the Cathedral though. Take your time and discover a few of its idiosyncrasies. Stroll across the uneven Stone floor under which hundreds of Haarlem s Rich or famous Are buried. They include Frans Hals the City s most renowned 17th. Century portrait Painter whose work was much admired years later by Vincent Van Gogh. Or gaze at the Wood carvings and brass work that form a protective screen around the Church s main Chapel. The 16th-Century brass work depicts the tongues of flame leaping off the biblical burning Bush. Behind the screen Are two Long rows of carved wooden chairs for Church elders. The chairs arms end in bizarre carvings of faces some Serene and others contorted in ways that must have made sense Only to the medieval craftsmen who fashioned them. A Mere 10-minute walk from St. Bavo s is the Frans Hals museum groot Heil Igland no. 62. The museum which has a Fine standing exhibition will feature a special retrospective of the artist s life and work May 12 through july 22. That could be the Best time for a Side trip to Haarlem. Some 70 examples of Hals work Are being collected from other museums and private owners around the world for the summer show. Among highlights always on display at the museum Are a series of civic club portraits painted by Hals in the late 1630s. One of the paintings which depicts the 18 officers of the civic guard of St. George was recently restored to repair a huge tear and a potbellied Sag in the Canvas. Look for Hals himself practically hiding in the upper left Corner of the painting behind a Flag bearer. Another of Haarlem s chief charms is its cobblestones shopping District. With its gabled buildings Serene courtyards and intimate Side streets it gives Clear evidence As to Why the City must be seen on foot. One suggested path is to Start at Haarlem s train station and make your Way up Krui Straat and  to St. Bavo s. That walk will take you near the Home of Corrie ten Boom who along with several family members hid dutch jews from the nazis until the Gestapo raided their Home in february 1944. She survived a nazi concentration Camp and later wrote the hiding place about her wartime experiences. A simple brass plaque on the Side of the House at  no. 19 honors four ten Boom family members who died at the hands of the nazis three in the Camps and one soon after world War ii ended. The ten Boom House is open for Tours daily but they Are done so Amateur richly that it s just As Well to skip the 45-minute lecture. The Anne Frank House in Amsterdam gives a much better history lesson and leaves a longer lasting impression. S stripes Magazine april 26, 1990