European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 26, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Walking the limes Story  photos by Andrew Cowin what is Europe s largest archaeological Monument a Structure that originally was nearly five times As Long As Hadrian s Wall on the English scottish Border stumped you re not alone because it also is one of Europe s least frequented major sights. The answer is the limes the former Eastern Border of the roman Empire. Stretching about 350 Miles this monumental Chain of fortifications was designed to link the Rhine near Koblenz with the Danube by Regensburg  it ranks As one of the greatest feats of military engineering of All time. Initially it was a rather modest affair a a Broad path Quot limes Means Quot pathway Quot guarded by regularly spaced wooden towers. Its final form in the third Century however was impressive an unbroken Stone Wall wih defensive Moats  ditches served by 60 auxiliary castles each with a Garrison of about 500 me numerous smaller forts  900 watchtowers each manned by about six guards. The Barrier required at least 40,000 legionaries to be on duty at any Given time. For All its air of Impre inability the Wall facing East was plastered  painted with a Brick pattern to enhance this effect the limes was doomed from the Start. Its planners underestimated the massed forces that it was designed to keep at Bay. As Early As . 233, the defences had to be temporarily abandoned. Things got worse in the years that followed  in 260 the line was abandoned after rampaging Alemanni poured into Lombardy before being repulsed. Thereafter apart from a few desultory campaigns the romans limited themselves to areas West of the Rhine. Battle damage had been heavy  the years the weather  people in search of free building materials took a further toll. The limes commission was established in 1892 a in the Nick of time to prevent the Monument s obliteration. Today several Sites have been extensively excavated or restored  Are fascinating. An added Bonus is that sections like those in the Launius Hills the Odenwald  Wurtemburg run through some of the finest  in places most Remote Countryside that Germany has to offer. So walking the limes is a unique experience. It is especially rewarding to seek out one of the better preserved Sites preferably one with sizeable sections of surviving Wall. The Best known of these is the Saalburg fortress about 10 Miles Northwest of Frankfurt. To drive there follow Highway b 456 toward bad Homburg Singen. The Saalburg has been almost completely reconstructed. This imposing moated edifice contains a Fine museum that provides a comprehensive View of roman life on the very Edge of civilization. Surrounding the fort Are the remains of several buildings including Baths  a Temple to the Sun god mithras of the Community that grew there. Saalburg is an excellent starting Point for limes walking. About five Miles to the Northeast Are the excavated remains of a smaller fort the kapers Burg it s a pleasant walk that includes Large chunks of the original Wall  ditch. The limes Southwest of Saalburg also Are popular among hikers the most energetic May proceed 10 Miles or so to the ruined Castle at Feldberg. Of comparable importance to the Saalburg ruins Are those in Aalen a 30-minute drive from Stuttgart on Highway b 29. Aalen formerly was the site of the largest of the limes fortresses  the museum that now stands amid the remains is interesting. There s also a charming Park in which copies of 16 roman Stone monuments Are exhibited. There Are two worthwhile Sites within easy striking distance of Heidelberg. About an hour s drive to the East along the Scenic Neckar Valley  then on the Highway b 292 in the direction of Mosbach bad Mergentheim is the attractive Little Village of Oste Burken. There you can find extensive remains plus a Well preserved roman Bath  a Large museum collection of Stone carvings  inscriptions. The museum is open Only on wednesday saturday  sunday afternoons the English Garden near Mulbach in the Odenwald is another Good bet. To get there from Heidelberg follow Highway b 47 in the direction of Michel Stadt Morbach. In about 1800, the time when this delightful Garden was Laid out it was very much Quot in Quot to build artificial ruins for effect. Duke Franz of Erbach went one better by Spir iting away whole chunks of the nearby limes  transplanting them to his new Garden. Thanks to that act of vandalism it is now possible to enjoy an unparalleled miscellany of limes oddments in the Duke s Garden today. Cowin. A resident of Heidelberg West Germany has written articles on european travel  history for various English language publications. A statue of emperor Antoninus salutes visitors at the Saalburg Gate. Stripes Magazine april 26, 1990