European Stars and Stripes (Newspaper) - April 27, 1990, Darmstadt, Hesse                                Reason to season set Obj seeking new accents in taste by Carleton Jones Baltimore Sun if you Are weary of the same old menus try taking a look at your spice Cabinet. How Many of those Little bottles have you used recently probably Only a few. If you think spices Are Only for Sweet stuff and cookies you Are missing much of the fun. They May never give your food the pungent Cool lift of fresh herbs but they can do things that some herbs cannot like holding up under High temperature cooking or harmonizing Well with sweets. Technically a spice is a seed or a ground seed. An Herb is usually the Leaf or part of a Plant either dried ground or served fresh. There Are similarities Between the two. Some spices like herbs can insistently stand up to certain fresh foods normally what you think is the purpose of herbs. Crushed coriander for instance is a regular with cabbage family foods in France and in other Continental cuisines. An orchestral array of spices appears in Frances famous pain d spice. This lavish Gingerbread of Burgundy is a hallowed habit in the City of Dijon one of the world capitals of cuisine. The recipe below is by Mirielle Johnston in her the cuisine of the Rose random House 1982 and it is one of the better ways of making adults Happy who grew up on Licorie Sticks Ginger snaps and cinnamon bread. You cannot count out spices when it comes to healthy food regimes for the regulars of the spice Trade can give ardent accents to fruit and Grain dishes. For a spectacular example see Colin Spencer a vegetarian vegetable risotto below. It blends colourful spice accents with the healthy flavors of All those eggplants and Zucchini that will be shaping up in gardens soon. Some spices achieve maximum effects when combined with herbs. A Sample is what happens to cardamom when blended with a Lemony fresh Plant. Quot the murkiness of cardamom and the haunting Citrus flavor of Lemon Balm can add a new dimension to a cheesecake Quot say Sherry and Mel London in the Herb amp spice Cookbook a seasoning Celebration published in 1986 by the Rodale press. At the same time careful Cooks will not scorn traditional blends. Fruit sauces Are almost always a Success with ground Ginger. Pears plums and apples will almost always breathe a Little and step up into the celestial with skilled doses of cinnamon Mace and allspice. There s nothing wrong either with the traditional spice escort for pumpkin pies or cookies a blend of cinnamon Ginger Nutmeg and allspice. For a truly aromatic concoction get out the blender or the cuisinart or a big mortar and Pestle and try the Calcutta Curry blend As devised by Davis Townsend in her Book How to Cook with herbs spices and flavors. He books 1982. This Basic powder can be used sparingly for an exotic touch in salads and curries or with mushroom vegetable or fish dishes. The following Are some formulas that May suggest the Range of pungent flavors available in the Chromatics of spices. Pain d spice Dijon Gingerbread 1 Pound Honey i cup water 5 cups Light Rye flour 1 Teaspoon coriander i Teaspoon cinnamon a amps spices May not provide the pungent Cool lift of fresh herbs but they can do things that some herbs cannot such As holding up under High temperature cooking or harmonizing Well with sweets. 1 Tablespoon Anise seed Viz Teaspoon powdered cloves 1 Teaspoon grated Nutmeg 5 drops Lemon extract 2 Tablespoons Lemon Peel Cut in tiny Dice 4 Tablespoons crystallized or fresh Orange Peel Cut in tiny Dice 2 Teaspoons baking soda 2 egg Yolks beaten 1 Teaspoon milk Combine the Honey and i cup water and bring to a boil. Mix the flour spices Lemon extract peels of Lemon and Orange and add the Honey and water stirring vigorously. Cover and let stand 20 to 24 hours. Mix the soda and egg Yolks and add the Batter which should be very soft and smooth add a Little water to soften if needed. Stir Well. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Pour Batter into two Well buttered loaf pans. Bake for 1 hour. Brush tops with milk and let Cool. Wrap in aluminium foil. The flavor will improve after three Days. Always keep tightly wrapped. Note pain d spice is Best served in very thin slices lightly buttered with Tea or Coffee. Spiced vegetable risotto 1 Large eggplant 2 Zucchini 4 Tablespoons Olive Oil 1 Teaspoon each crushed cumin and coriander seeds paprika and Garam Masala see note below 2 Large onions sliced 5 Large cloves garlic crushed sea Salt and freshly ground Black Pepper 1 i cups Rice i cupful White wine or vermouth 4 cups boiling water 2 Tablespoons Green Peppercorns 1 ounce butter 4 ounces freshly grated Parmesan cheese Cut the eggplant and Zucchini into Small cubes. Heat the Oil in a heavy Ovenproof pan and saute All the spices. Add the eggplant Zucchini onion and garlic and Cook gently for about 4 minutes or until soft. Add the Salt Pepper and Rice. Stir until the Rice has soaked up All the Oil and juices. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the wine or vermouth boiling water and Green Peppercorns. Page 14 a a a the stars and stripes Friday of